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Old 01-05-2016, 09:29 AM   #11
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Thanks Youroo. Wouldn't that mean that the water is sitting in my water heater? Doesn't it need to be emptied?

Not questioning you just trying to understand the logic. I appreciate very much the way you keep helping us rookies!
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:36 AM   #12
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No in my Post I said Drain it though! Youroo!!
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Old 01-05-2016, 09:51 AM   #13
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Thanks Youroo. Now I have to figure out how to drain it. I thought if I just left it open and opened the low point drains it would drain the water heater. It sounds like it does but it will draw any crud into my hot water heater if I am understanding correctly. I will do some research on draining the hot water heater separately.

Thanks again youroo!
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:09 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Appalachian Ed View Post
Thanks Youroo. Now I have to figure out how to drain it. I thought if I just left it open and opened the low point drains it would drain the water heater. It sounds like it does but it will draw any crud into my hot water heater if I am understanding correctly. I will do some research on draining the hot water heater separately.

Thanks again youroo!
ED turn off the elect breaker in your Main Panel that supplies your W/H , Turn off water pump,Disconnect city water hose,Open H and Cold faucet,any one,Now take a 1/2" drive ratchet,with a 6" extension,and a 1 and1/16 " 6 point socket and remove the A-Rod,Stand to the Side! The Water and CRUD will drain out,now flush out the Tank with fresh water using the A-Rod HOLE/Drain Hole,there are adapters made for a Garden Hose to do this, Youroo!! ED you want to Open the H&C faucets BEFORE you Turn the Bypass Valves to Isolate the W/H,this will relieve the Water Pressure from the W/H tank,so you Dont get a BATH!
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:11 AM   #15
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Send a message via Yahoo to bob caldwell
If it's a Surb.water heater, remove anode rod
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Old 01-05-2016, 10:03 PM   #16
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ED turn off the elect breaker in your Main Panel that supplies your W/H , Turn off water pump,Disconnect city water hose,Open H and Cold faucet,any one,Now take a 1/2" drive ratchet,with a 6" extension,and a 1 and1/16 " 6 point socket and remove the A-Rod,Stand to the Side! The Water and CRUD will drain out,now flush out the Tank with fresh water using the A-Rod HOLE/Drain Hole,there are adapters made for a Garden Hose to do this, Youroo!! ED you want to Open the H&C faucets BEFORE you Turn the Bypass Valves to Isolate the W/H,this will relieve the Water Pressure from the W/H tank,so you Dont get a BATH!
You da man youroo!
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:05 PM   #17
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Mike, Thanks for asking the question. Living in California, I've never winterized a trailer but our new 8392SS does have this interesting panel and I glossed over it's operation during the PDI.
I wish the black tank flush was NOT right next to the city water inlet and that both the inlets had the bigger knob design. (Is you city water on sort of an extended hose that sticks out a bit? mine is...)
Having the water pump switch there is interesting and I see it would help with winterizing, and I could use it to turn on the pump after I have disconnected the city hose to provide last-minute water inside, but it's not likely a 3-way switch and with no indicator light inside, it would be easy to forget in packing up.
I've dreamed of a black flush inlet that was recessed enough to put a quick connect on permanently, making usage a literal "snap". oh well...
The lighted switch that only exists to light up? Now THAT is an interesting design solution!


Cheers!
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