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Old 05-06-2012, 08:47 AM   #1
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Water heater

Camping this weekend and having water heater issues, works fine during the day. we did every thing the same as previous trips. When we wake up no hot water. When we turn the electric switch off/on inside it sounds like it is blowing up, when my husband took the plate off we found out that the gas was also on. How do you just use just electric. We have every booklet but the one for the water heater, of course. Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:01 AM   #2
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The switch for the electric is outside, behind the water heater cover, lower left. If you are plugged in, and the heater is full of water, and sounds like it is, just turn the switch on outside. Make sure you DO NOT....DO NOT... turn on the inside switch with the red light. That switch controls the gas operation only. Also make sure you turn off the electric before you unplug.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:09 AM   #3
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Where is the switch please.

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Old 05-06-2012, 09:15 AM   #4
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Bottom left. It is below and kind of behind the gas valve. May have a small pin in it, keeping it in the off position. (most ship with the pin in, just so it won't be turned on when power is applied, and no water in the tank, which burn the element out in just a few seconds. The pin is just a safety, and can be tossed.) Just pull the pin, and turn the rocker switch to on.
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:19 AM   #5
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Found a pic for you

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...7&d=1333647281
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider
Great thanks is the anode suppose to be removed?
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:39 AM   #7
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No on the anode. It is a combination anode rod and drain plug. Only remove when there is no power, (either not plugged in or heater switch off), and when the water is cold. It will dump 6 gallons of water when the anode is pulled. It will also need refilling before the electric is turned on, or it will burn the electric element up in just a few seconds.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:01 AM   #8
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When camping and hooked to shore power you can turn the WH electric switch on (after you confirm the heater has water). The switch on the control panel inside is to fire up the WH using propane. We turn on the propane switch when taking showers to improve recovery time. Both electric and propane will function at the same time. When done with showers we turn the propane switch off to save fuel and leave the electric on. You should have a WH manual with your docs. I am sure there has been posted in PDF on this forum so do a search.

When turning on the WH propane switch inside, there is a light just under the tank LEDS that says FAULT. This will light until the WH has fired up. If it does not go out within a few minutes, turn the switch off, wait, then try again. If air is in the propane line and the unit will not light, bleed the air by lighting burners on your stovetop.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel702
When camping and hooked to shore power you can turn the WH electric switch on (after you confirm the heater has water). The switch on the control panel inside is to fire up the WH using propane. We turn on the propane switch when taking showers to improve recovery time. Both electric and propane will function at the same time. When done with showers we turn the propane switch off to save fuel and leave the electric on. You should have a WH manual with your docs. I am sure there has been posted in PDF on this forum so do a search.

When turning on the WH propane switch inside, there is a light just under the tank LEDS that says FAULT. This will light until the WH has fired up. If it does not go out within a few minutes, turn the switch off, wait, then try again. If air is in the propane line and the unit will not light, bleed the air by lighting burners on your stovetop.
This was a very good explanation on the use of WH. I now understand it, been trying to figure this out for sometime now. Thanks!
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:49 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider
No on the anode. It is a combination anode rod and drain plug. Only remove when there is no power, (either not plugged in or heater switch off), and when the water is cold. It will dump 6 gallons of water when the anode is pulled. It will also need refilling before the electric is turned on, or it will burn the electric element up in just a few seconds.
We've always left the rod in, with the switch off and after water is drained, in between our camping trips. Have we been doing this wrong? Why does the rod need to be removed when not in use? It just seems easy to keep it stored there, 'til we go camping again.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:25 PM   #11
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We've always left the rod in, with the switch off and after water is drained, in between our camping trips. Have we been doing this wrong? Why does the rod need to be removed when not in use? It just seems easy to keep it stored there, 'til we go camping again.
I agree, see no reason to remove it after each use. I check it once a year to see if it needs replacing. Other than that, I think it is just a waste of time to remove it multiple times a year. We don't empty the wh either, just turn both systems off and leave it alone til we use the camper again. We just treat it like the one at home with the exception of checking the anode once a yr.
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Old 05-06-2012, 12:50 PM   #12
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I agree. You do not drain the one in your house. I pull plug and rinse the tank once a year.
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Old 05-06-2012, 01:15 PM   #13
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During winterization, remove the anode. This will drain the tank and at the same time you can inspect for corrosion (particles flowing out when the tank is almost empty) and anode condition.

Our second winterization, I had issues with both so I bought a new anode (already had some teflon tape) and a flusher wand (looks like a 1' water pic that screws on to the hose). I gave the tank a good rise at winterization and again at de-winterization, installed the new anode and filled the tank via the city water connection (be sure to let the air escape via the overtemp valve). If I left the particles in the tank, it could get trapped in the overtemp valve and it will leak or get pushed down stream in get trapped in the sink faucet's screens.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:35 PM   #14
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We turned the gas off but never did get hot water with the electric turned on. Since we were at the beach we didn't feel like messing with it anymore and figured we would check it out at home. Any idea what we should check for.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
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altho others have stated leaving anode rod in and not draining hw tank if you happen to put in water that is high in sulfur which most ground wells do you may get a rotten egg smell if not drained and left to sit .
WE drain our hw tanks after each use and have no rotten egg smell and not lime scale deposit issues in the water system . just something to think about .
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:52 PM   #16
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You do need shore power for electric. WH does not run off battery.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windrider View Post
The switch for the electric is outside, behind the water heater cover, lower left. If you are plugged in, and the heater is full of water, and sounds like it is, just turn the switch on outside. Make sure you DO NOT....DO NOT... turn on the inside switch with the red light. That switch controls the gas operation only. Also make sure you turn off the electric before you unplug.
this is not necessarily true anymore .
my switch on my hw heater has been disabled and the gas and electric switches are both inside .
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Old 05-07-2012, 06:37 PM   #18
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We turned the gas off but never did get hot water with the electric turned on. Since we were at the beach we didn't feel like messing with it anymore and figured we would check it out at home. Any idea what we should check for.
You may want to check the HW heater breaker inside the camper to be sure it hasn't tripped. If still no hot water and you are able to use a voltmeter then check to be sure you have power to the heating element. If you do have power you then need to ohm the element to see if it is shorted. If so, then you will need to install a new element.
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