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Old 02-01-2015, 05:15 PM   #11
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Wmtire,
It is a Suburban. The switch is on the water heater. I have power through the switch.
Thanks
P.S.: I'm not sure I am replying the right way on this forum.
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:31 PM   #12
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Electric element on my water heater (2012 model 2604) worked for a year then quit. Had a dealer put a new element in and it still didn't work. I thought he just did a crummy job so I ordered another element and put it in myself. Still doesn't work. I have power to both wires attached to element. ANyone have an idea? Thanks, Jack

When you say that you have power to both wires attached to the element, did you test the wires (unhooked from the element) with a volt meter to get 120volts ?
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:53 PM   #13
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Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.
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Old 02-01-2015, 05:56 PM   #14
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Wmtire,
It is a Suburban. The switch is on the water heater. I have power through the switch.
Thanks
P.S.: I'm not sure I am replying the right way on this forum.
OK, here is a wiring schematic for the Suburban:



The switch, as well as the Thermostat, are simple. They just close the circuit to allow the flow of power to the element. If either one is open (switch in the off position or the T'stat burned out, tripped, or not calling for heat), then you will not have 120 volts at the electric element itself. (but you said you did)

Also as stated, the t'stat will be needing to sense the water is cold, before it will close the circuit...thus allowing the circuit to complete.

If you have 120 volts directly at the heating element (with the t-stat closing the circuit by calling for heat), then it almost can only be a bad element.

We'll need to check the Ohms at the element, which I will explain in a later post.
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:00 PM   #15
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Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.
Whoa here. What kind of test light are you using. This can change the whole prognosis.

Do you have or can access a multi-meter? You really need it.

Here is a link to troubleshooting/testing. The Heartlands however, have another inside switch also for the electric heating element, so you will need to consider that in reading the link. I also think I have seen where they are backwards on which t-stat is 120 volts and which one is the 12 volt...but overall it's simple for the layman to follow.

http://trekin.digital-digs.net/Share...ban%20V1.1.pdf
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Old 02-01-2015, 06:28 PM   #16
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If you have a suburban, the over temp pop disc could have tripped. There are two round black circles about the size of a dime just above the outside switch, Push on both. If one snaps ( you will feel it) then it was tripped.
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Old 02-02-2015, 02:16 AM   #17
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When my Element died, it took the High temp limit switch with it. It is located behind the black approx 4" x 4' cover that has two reset push areas on it. Once you remove that black cover, you will see two limit switches each with two wires connected to it. On each one you should also what looks like a thick bare wire connecting the top and the bottom of the switch. Those are fusible links. If the links are gone, you must replace the switch about $20-$25. Only one of my switches was toasted. I removed the bad one and installed the new one, put everything back together, filled tank, switched on power and now have plenty of electrically heated water.

I bought my replacement element at Lowes about $20.

I bought my replacement switch off eBay; part number 232306
Suburban 232306 RV Water Heater 130 Degree Eco Thermostat | eBay
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:32 AM   #18
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Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.

Jacksum2, not questioning your electrical ability at all. It would seem to me that a test light would only show that there is a voltage coming from 'somewhere'. This does not give you an amount of voltage. Is your 'test light' a 12volt (battery) or a 120volt (House)? It seems to me the heating element needs 240 House voltage to work. By using a voltage meter to test the wires (shut off power and removed from the element) (be very careful as we know one or more of the wires... or frame, is 'Hot') Turn power back on when end of wires are safely not touching even close to anything metal. One wire test through a volt meter to a 'ground' should read 110-120 volts. The other wire the same. If both wires are 'hot' (be very careful) then testing both wire through the volt meter it should be 240 volts. Shut power back off and reconnect to element.

As least this is how I would start trouble shooting. If you are not comfortable with getting close to these hot wires. Please talk to someone who is. 110 voltage is not something to play with if you are not comfortable around it. I mean not to judge your ability, but please error on the side of caution.

Safety first and always. You do have gas for right now to heat your water.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:34 AM   #19
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OK, here is a wiring schematic for the Suburban:



The switch, as well as the Thermostat, are simple. They just close the circuit to allow the flow of power to the element. If either one is open (switch in the off position or the T'stat burned out, tripped, or not calling for heat), then you will not have 120 volts at the electric element itself. (but you said you did)

Also as stated, the t'stat will be needing to sense the water is cold, before it will close the circuit...thus allowing the circuit to complete.

If you have 120 volts directly at the heating element (with the t-stat closing the circuit by calling for heat), then it almost can only be a bad element.

We'll need to check the Ohms at the element, which I will explain in a later post.

Are the water heaters 120volts or 240v? Is each wire to the element 'Hot'?
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:40 AM   #20
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Are the water heaters 120volts or 240v? Is each wire to the element 'Hot'?
120 volts.

Even 50 amp RV's that use a 120/240 split phase service, utilize each line/leg separately at 120 volts.

There are some extremely rare instances on some big units that they have a 240 volt dryer or heater, but this is not common. For the most part EVERYTHING is going to be 120 volts on just about all RV's.

http://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php
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