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Old 02-02-2015, 10:46 AM   #21
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It is not possible to diagnose a burned out heating element with a troubleshooting light.
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:50 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
120 volts.

Even 50 amp RV's that use a 120/240 split phase service, utilize each line/leg separately at 120 volts.

There are some extremely rare instances on some big units that they have a 240 volt dryer or heater, but this is not common. For the most part EVERYTHING is going to be 120 volts on just about all RV's.

Electrical Tutorial - Chapter 3 - 30 Amp versus 50 Amp
Each wire has 120v going TO the element?
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Old 02-02-2015, 10:54 AM   #23
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It is not possible to diagnose a burned out heating element with a troubleshooting light.
If each wire going to the element is 'hot' with 120 volts ..... no.

The 'light'/wires would by-pass the heating element and just show power.

Remove one hot wire from the element (power off), put wire where it will not arch. Turn power back on and put pointer of the troubleshooting light on the non wired nut of the element and then the other pointer on the loosened hot wire.This should tell you if the 'element' is 'open' (broke) or closed (ok). It is not the safest way to check the element.

Get a volt meter and shut off power.

With a volt meter on the continuation setting and the wires removed from the element, the battery from the volt meter will show or not if the element wire is burned out.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:08 AM   #24
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Brother Les the element on the RV is 120 volt not 240.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:20 AM   #25
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Brother Les the element on the RV is 120 volt not 240.
Yes.... I am just over thinking on this....
1500watt element....

I was looking at 120volts from one wire and 120v coming from the other wire for 240v.
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Old 02-02-2015, 11:28 AM   #26
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It is not possible to diagnose a burned out heating element with a troubleshooting light.
Yes, but if you're talking about a troubleshooting light that's commonly used on vehicles to show continuity between 2 points....I'd want the element out of the heater before I tested it in this manner to be sure of my findings.

If the element is out and you have it in hand, there's a good chance you could see a problem - if it's the element.

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Old 02-02-2015, 11:44 AM   #27
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Get a METER!! Cheap or even free with a coupon at Harbor freight.

Check for 120 V AC across the heat element screw terminals.
That's the final test.
IF you have 120V AC there and no heat then the element is absolutely
burned out.
Stop guessing and get a meter!! Borrow one from a neighbor.
BE CAREFUL 120v can kill you. Stay dry and don't touch live wires!
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:14 PM   #28
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Thanks to all. Sounds like it takes more knowledge than I have. I will do without electric until I can take it to a pro.

Jack
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Old 02-02-2015, 12:37 PM   #29
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Jack, you've done the hard work. Take a breather and ask a friend for the voltage meter. By all accounts the only item(s) left is the switch or element. A voltage meter is easy to use. Good luck.
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:00 PM   #30
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This is not a bad video for multimeter 101. I don't think a $50 meter is necessary as is suggested, but get the best you can. With anything else - you get what you pay for and it is electricity.

If you're not comfortable checking live voltage, get someone to show you the proper, safe way.

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