Water Heater

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 11:36 AM

Electric element on my water heater (2012 model 2604) worked for a year then quit. Had a dealer put a new element in and it still didn't work. I thought he just did a crummy job so I ordered another element and put it in myself. Still doesn't work. I have power to both wires attached to element. ANyone have an idea? Thanks, Jack

fonzie · 02-01-2015, 11:39 AM

You have water in the tank? You have 120 volts across both wires?

dan-nickie · 02-01-2015, 11:42 AM

Bypass valves set properly?

l001952119 · 02-01-2015, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacksum2

Electric element on my water heater (2012 model 2604) worked for a year then quit. Had a dealer put a new element in and it still didn't work. I thought he just did a crummy job so I ordered another element and put it in myself. Still doesn't work. I have power to both wires attached to element. ANyone have an idea? Thanks, Jack

IF you failed to have water in the tank when you energized the heating element, you immediately destroyed the heating element. It is easy to cause this issue. A "brief" moment of no water verses energizing of the element will destroy the coil. It is not something that requires several minutes of attempted use, absent of water.

If this occurred, and it probably did, the electrical energy would still be readable on the heating element terminals. BUT, the unit will not heat! PERIOD! I speak from experience in causing an element to burn out.

Buy and install a new element, make SURE the water heater tank is full and energize the heater coil. Bet it heats water after about five minutes!

**KyDan** · 02-01-2015, 12:29 PM

Stand back and pull the handle on the pop off valve.
If water comes out- report back.
IF air or nothing comes out you probably have an empty tank and
have burned up yet another element, most likely due to having
the bypass valves in the winter/bypass setting.

See this link for cheapest place to get an element.
Camco 1500-Watt 120-Volt Screw-In Type High Watt Density Water Heater Element-15896 - The Home Depot

Note- HomeDebit has a 1500 watt 120v element which is the correct one.
They also have a 2000 watt 120 v element which is NOT the correct one!

Good luck!

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 03:10 PM

Yes to both.

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 03:11 PM

Yes. Works fine on gas.

caper · 02-01-2015, 03:38 PM

Have you checked the thermostat for the electric side of the heater?

**wmtire** · 02-01-2015, 03:50 PM

Just to be positive on one aspect before I share some ideas.......do you have an Atwood water heater or a Suburban?

Easy way to identify: If the Suburban, the latch tab on the access door is plastic, and if an Atwood, it's metal. (BClemens taught me that, and I was just recently at an RV show and verified it is true as I perused the various models)

Also, do you turn on the electric heating element with a switch inside the RV or is it on the face of the water heater?

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 05:09 PM

Caper,
I don't know how to check the thermostat. Where is it?
Thank You

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 05:15 PM

Wmtire,
It is a Suburban. The switch is on the water heater. I have power through the switch.
Thanks
P.S.: I'm not sure I am replying the right way on this forum.

Brother Les · 02-01-2015, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacksum2

Electric element on my water heater (2012 model 2604) worked for a year then quit. Had a dealer put a new element in and it still didn't work. I thought he just did a crummy job so I ordered another element and put it in myself. Still doesn't work. I have power to both wires attached to element. ANyone have an idea? Thanks, Jack

When you say that you have power to both wires attached to the element, did you test the wires (unhooked from the element) with a volt meter to get 120volts ?

jacksum2 · 02-01-2015, 05:53 PM

Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.

**wmtire** · 02-01-2015, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacksum2

Wmtire,
It is a Suburban. The switch is on the water heater. I have power through the switch.
Thanks
P.S.: I'm not sure I am replying the right way on this forum.

OK, here is a wiring schematic for the Suburban:

The switch, as well as the Thermostat, are simple. They just close the circuit to allow the flow of power to the element. If either one is open (switch in the off position or the T'stat burned out, tripped, or not calling for heat), then you will not have 120 volts at the electric element itself. (but you said you did)

Also as stated, the t'stat will be needing to sense the water is cold, before it will close the circuit...thus allowing the circuit to complete.

If you have 120 volts directly at the heating element (with the t-stat closing the circuit by calling for heat), then it almost can only be a bad element.

We'll need to check the Ohms at the element, which I will explain in a later post.

**wmtire** · 02-01-2015, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacksum2

Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.

Whoa here. What kind of test light are you using. This can change the whole prognosis.

Do you have or can access a multi-meter? You really need it.

Here is a link to troubleshooting/testing. The Heartlands however, have another inside switch also for the electric heating element, so you will need to consider that in reading the link. I also think I have seen where they are backwards on which t-stat is 120 volts and which one is the 12 volt...but overall it's simple for the layman to follow.

http://trekin.digital-digs.net/Share...ban%20V1.1.pdf

**Flybob** · 02-01-2015, 06:28 PM

If you have a suburban, the over temp pop disc could have tripped. There are two round black circles about the size of a dime just above the outside switch, Push on both. If one snaps ( you will feel it) then it was tripped.

Makoto · 02-02-2015, 02:16 AM

When my Element died, it took the High temp limit switch with it. It is located behind the black approx 4" x 4' cover that has two reset push areas on it. Once you remove that black cover, you will see two limit switches each with two wires connected to it. On each one you should also what looks like a thick bare wire connecting the top and the bottom of the switch. Those are fusible links. If the links are gone, you must replace the switch about $20-$25. Only one of my switches was toasted. I removed the bad one and installed the new one, put everything back together, filled tank, switched on power and now have plenty of electrically heated water.

I bought my replacement element at Lowes about $20.

I bought my replacement switch off eBay; part number 232306
Suburban 232306 RV Water Heater 130 Degree Eco Thermostat | eBay

Brother Les · 02-02-2015, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jacksum2

Brother Les: I don't have a volt meter, just a test light and both wires were connected to the heating element when I tested.

Jacksum2, not questioning your electrical ability at all. It would seem to me that a test light would only show that there is a voltage coming from 'somewhere'. This does not give you an amount of voltage. Is your 'test light' a 12volt (battery) or a 120volt (House)? It seems to me the heating element needs 240 House voltage to work. By using a voltage meter to test the wires (shut off power and removed from the element) (be very careful as we know one or more of the wires... or frame, is 'Hot') Turn power back on when end of wires are safely not touching even close to anything metal. One wire test through a volt meter to a 'ground' should read 110-120 volts. The other wire the same. If both wires are 'hot' (be very careful) then testing both wire through the volt meter it should be 240 volts. Shut power back off and reconnect to element.

As least this is how I would start trouble shooting. If you are not comfortable with getting close to these hot wires. Please talk to someone who is. 110 voltage is not something to play with if you are not comfortable around it. I mean not to judge your ability, but please error on the side of caution.

Safety first and always. You do have gas for right now to heat your water.

Brother Les · 02-02-2015, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmtire

OK, here is a wiring schematic for the Suburban:

The switch, as well as the Thermostat, are simple. They just close the circuit to allow the flow of power to the element. If either one is open (switch in the off position or the T'stat burned out, tripped, or not calling for heat), then you will not have 120 volts at the electric element itself. (but you said you did)

Also as stated, the t'stat will be needing to sense the water is cold, before it will close the circuit...thus allowing the circuit to complete.

If you have 120 volts directly at the heating element (with the t-stat closing the circuit by calling for heat), then it almost can only be a bad element.

We'll need to check the Ohms at the element, which I will explain in a later post.

Are the water heaters 120volts or 240v? Is each wire to the element 'Hot'?

**wmtire** · 02-02-2015, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brother Les

Are the water heaters 120volts or 240v? Is each wire to the element 'Hot'?

120 volts.

Even 50 amp RV's that use a 120/240 split phase service, utilize each line/leg separately at 120 volts.

There are some extremely rare instances on some big units that they have a 240 volt dryer or heater, but this is not common. For the most part EVERYTHING is going to be 120 volts on just about all RV's.

http://www.rvtechmag.com/electrical/chapter3.php

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