Water heater element removal

[Dwilki]

I need to replace the electric element in our water heater (yes, you know what we did, HeeHee). We have the tool and the replacement part, but can not seem to break loose the original element. Any suggestions? Thanking you in advance.

[wmtire]

Are you using the stamped metal element wrench that needs a T-handle, like below? If so, you might can get a longer screwdriver or rod to use as the handle...to get better leverage when trying to twist it.


You can usually get better leverage when using a true 1 and 1/2 inch six point socket designed for this purpose, with extension and ratchet or breakover bar........like below:

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1828-2-.../dp/B000NPT5L2

[Capt. Mike]

Ours takes a 1 1/16" socket.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Capt. Mike

Ours takes a 1 1/16" socket.

Mike, are you talking about the anode rod (1 1/16th) or the electric heater element (1 1/2") on the Suburban water heaters?

Here is a pic of them both:

The electric heating element has the two wires attached. The anode rod, is to the bottom right of it.

[cadman99]

Fine someone with a good 1/2" drive impact - it takes 30 seconds.

[Dwilki]

Thx WMTire and Cadman99!! We had an impact tool and the actual 1 1/2 socket did the trick!!!! Took all the impact tool had to break it loose. Does the replacement element need to be reinstalled that tight with 320 lbs of torque??? THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Dwilki

Thx WMTire and Cadman99!! We had an impact tool and the actual 1 1/2 socket did the trick!!!! Took all the impact tool had to break it loose. Does the replacement element need to be reinstalled that tight with 320 lbs of torque??? THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Could it be that the anode got used up at some point and the threads on the heating element got corroded? I have no idea why else that would be so tight!

[Dwilki]

This is a new Rockwood (camped one wk in it) and we were winterizing it and failed to turn the switch off. Never had an electric option before. Actually the element looks good. We just wanted to replace it knowing that we burned it up having the electric on and no water.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by Dwilki

This is a new Rockwood (camped one wk in it) and we were winterizing it and failed to turn the switch off. Never had an electric option before. Actually the element looks good. We just wanted to replace it knowing that we burned it up having the electric on and no water.

I guess King Kong works at the Suburban plant under an assumed name!

[B47]

Originally Posted by herk7769

I guess King Kong works at the Suburban plant under an assumed name!

Either that or the factory torque wrench (s) need calibrating - this is assuming they use torque wrenches at the factory.

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Mike, are you talking about the anode rod (1 1/16th) or the electric heater element (1 1/2") on the Suburban water heaters?

Here is a pic of them both:

The electric heating element has the two wires attached. The anode rod, is to the bottom right of it.

Ooops, my bad. Anode rod 1 1/16", electric heater element 1 1/2". I'm going stir-crazy and this is just one manifestation of it. C'mon spring!

[cadman99]

Reinstall with hardening Permatex - or teflon tape. Note that teflon tape will give you a false torque reading - if torque wrench says 60 you probably have 180lbs.

It's just pipe thread - 1/2 a turn past snug should do it - check it the first time you fire it up.

same thing I had - took the impact a bit to finally loosen it.