Water Pump just runs and runs On 8312ss

cecilt · 05-13-2012, 06:35 PM

Any ideas on why the water pump will continue to run and run. If I run water long enough it will run and shut off normally. However, if you run a faucet for like 5 seconds the pump will turn on but never fully prime and it just hums along until I open a faucet and let water run long enough for it to prime and shut off. I tightened the plastic strainer cap and made sure all connections around the pump were tight. I don't have any water leaks that I am aware of.

Bttravel · 05-13-2012, 06:41 PM

Once the pump builds pressure does it stop and not come back on (or burp) until you open a water source? I would think maybe a bad check valve, bleeding off pressure or a crappy pressure switch. Be nice to put a pressure gauge on it and see what it's actually doing. If everything is proper it should kick in and quickly pressure up when you close the faucet. I just installed an accumulator today and it really makes a difference. You've got a pressure control problem somewhere. May have to try one at a time unless someone here has had this exact same situation. Good luck.

**Herk7769** · 05-13-2012, 06:59 PM

This sounds to me like a check valve problem. A slight pressure drop will not allow the check valve to seat and it lets pressure bleed back into the fresh water tank. A large demand may compress the spring enough to slam closed when the faucet is shut.

I am thinking the check valve internal to the water pump.
There may be a rebuild kit available depending on the model.

cecilt · 05-13-2012, 08:25 PM

When I run a faucet long enough the pump will prime and eventually shut off. It will not turn on agin until a faucet is turned on or toilet flushed.faucets seem to spit a lot until pressure builds back up. I just came out of my 1 year warranty but do have the 2nd year through Forest river. Would a pump be covered? Tks

Bttravel · 05-13-2012, 08:32 PM

Don't recall off hand on the pump coverage but I would give the dealer a call, if you like them, etc. and see what they say. You definitely have a valve or pressure switch problem or both. If it was leaking down it would "burp" every so often, but apparently it's not doing that. Correct? It's a little strange as it sounds like it is loosing pressure but not activating the pump until you put a good drain load on it like a faucet open. I'm with Herk, it's definitely at the pump in some fashion. Check valve, pressure switch or GREMLINS.

Old car · 05-13-2012, 08:43 PM

Sounds like our water pump last season. Our pump would continue to run until we ran a faucet for a bit and it would stop. Didn't do anything about it but this season the pump is working properly. I don't know if going through the winterizing / de-winterizing process had anything to do with it but it works great now.

**Herk7769** · 05-13-2012, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecilt

When I run a faucet long enough the pump will prime and eventually shut off. It will not turn on agin until a faucet is turned on or toilet flushed.faucets seem to spit a lot until pressure builds back up. I just came out of my 1 year warranty but do have the 2nd year through Forest river. Would a pump be covered? Tks

Then its not the check valve. This is an air leak on the suction side.
It could be at the fresh water tank hose connection; a pinhole in the hose itself (screw maybe); the inlet to the pre-screen filter; or the screen filter to pump connection.

photog · 05-13-2012, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cecilt

When I run a faucet long enough the pump will prime and eventually shut off. It will not turn on agin until a faucet is turned on or toilet flushed.faucets seem to spit a lot until pressure builds back up. I just came out of my 1 year warranty but do have the 2nd year through Forest river. Would a pump be covered? Tks

Make sure that the valve on the short "winterizing" hose is closed. (don't ask how I know)

OldCoot · 05-13-2012, 10:06 PM

I would guess the pump itself needs a new diaphram. If it was on the inlet side, the pump wouldn't know it, would it?

teamgl · 05-13-2012, 10:08 PM

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tes-22807.html

Posted in the link above. The OP states the problem more clearly though.

I still have not resolved the issue.

When this occurred, I examined the pump and noticed the water filter had an air bubble. When the water pump worked properly, there was not an air bubble present. We don't use the water filter, so plan on removing it. Hopefully that cures the problem, if not we plan on replacing the water pump.

cecilt · 05-14-2012, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by photog

Make sure that the valve on the short "winterizing" hose is closed. (don't ask how I know)

I saw that valve. Mine is turned so it lines up with the hose. If I turn it it will be perpendicular to the hose jot parallell. Which way should the valve be turned? Tks

doosterhouse · 05-14-2012, 02:52 PM

In line with the hose = On
perpendicular to the hose = Off
They are quarter turn valves. Hope that solves the problem.

**Herk7769** · 05-14-2012, 03:02 PM

OK, there are a couple of things going on here. Leaving the bypass valve open will definitely cause tepid hot water (cold water will mix with hot when the hot water faucet is opened) but it will not cause the OP's pump run issue.

I am still sticking to an air leak in the pump or earlier part of the system and the pump is losing its prime.

A bad diaphragm in the pump could do it as DunnNC said. Or an air leak anywhere between the pump and the fresh water tank.

cecilt · 05-14-2012, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herk7769

OK, there are a couple of things going on here. Leaving the bypass valve open will definitely cause tepid hot water (cold water will mix with hot when the hot water faucet is opened) but it will not cause the OP's pump run issue.

I am still sticking to an air leak in the pump or earlier part of the system and the pump is losing its prime.

A bad diaphragm in the pump could do it as DunnNC said. Or an air leak anywhere between the pump and the fresh water tank.

The valve I was referring to is in the pump compartment and I guess for the winterizing outlet that the 8312ss has. Never used it as I just blow my lines out with air. Second, when I bought the TT the pump did the exact thing. I was doing the PPI and I heard the pump running but nothing was on. The dealer(RV Wholesalers) replaced the pump before I left and just said it was probably a defective pump. Snce this pump also seems to just run and run unless I fully get it primed and pressurized for it to shut off my guess is the first pump might not have been bad after all. Very frustrating.

**Herk7769** · 05-14-2012, 04:36 PM

I hear your pain. I can't believe your dealer let you leave the lot with that problem. Swapping out the pump with no troubleshooting in the kind of crap that ticks me off. They most likely charged FR an arm and a leg for that piece of work. What if it was leaking somewhere instead of sucking air? You would have a destroyed camper and they would just shrug and rub their hands together. It's payday!

cecilt · 06-01-2012, 06:33 AM

Flipped the antifreeze bypass valve so it was perpendicular to the hose. Turned on the pump and all it did was remove all the water from the water filter canonizer and then nothing. No more water would come out of faucets. Turned knob so it was parallel to the ose as it has always been and water filter canister filled back up again and water flowed through faucets. Still have a running or really a humming pump until it builds up pressure, primes and shits off. Taking to service dealer Monday.

cecilt · 06-12-2012, 09:06 AM

Pressure relief valve on the city inlet was stuck. Was letting air into the system. All is good now. tks for the feedback.

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