Water system

[Old car]

Took our 2012 Windjammer 3008W out for the first time since getting the trailer back from Forest River for cracked wall repair. The off door side wall was replaced so I know they had to "mess with" the outside shower and the three ports (city water connection, anit-freeze pick-up, and black tank flush).

We got to the campground near dark and filled up the fresh water tank. About 2/3 full I had DW turn on the water pump to fill the hot water heater. Pump kicked on but not getting any water to the faucets or the hot water tank. Filled the fresh water tank to full and went to the campsite.

Tried pump again--no water. Opened up the door where the pump and filter/canister are hidden. The canister was about 1/2 full so turned on pump again and the canister drained. End of the water so we dry camped this trip.

Got home yesterday afternoon and hooked up the garden hose to the city water connection. Canister filled up as well as hot water heater. Open faucet and cannister drained and would only slowly fill up again. Could not fill fast enough for a running faucet. Decided to try to pull water through the anti-freeze port and it works so I know the pump does indeed work.

Filled fresh tank again and tried the pump. Canister goes empty and faucets go dry. I pulled the canister and filter. Held a clear plastic glass under the head of the canister holder and DW turnd on pump. Just a few spits of water. Tried this several times but it never improved. Has to be a blockage of some type.

Any suggestions on how to trace where the blockage is and clear it without taking out all the plumbing? The pump is not in an easy access area and I'm not sure I'm that flexible to try and pull everything out.

[youroo]

If the pump pulls from the A/F side have they placed the suction hoses wrong on the diverter valve? Try to connect the F/W Tank hose to the suction side of pump. Youroo!!

[Old car]

I thought the same thing but water lines are so tight as far as their fit (overall length); I really don't see how they could put them on backwards. And the plumbing appears to be routed as before. I took a picture underneath the first time I opened up that area for future reference and all looks identical.

[youroo]

As much problems we all have had with the (Water Systems) I sent a (Proposal) to F/R for a (Roof Top Old Style Water Tower).Gravity flow and in the summer no (Water Heater) needed. Still working on the (Winter Aspect)? I got the idea from Si Robertson-Jack! Youroo!!

[Dave_Monica]

It seems very unusual that you'd have problems with both the FW tank/water pump and the city water supply at the same time. I've got a couple of questions for clarification...

When you were hooked up on city water did you leave it on long enough to completely fill the water heater?

Is the winterizing line a 'T' connection with a valve on the water pump suction line and is there a in-line check valve on the suction line on the FW tank side of the 'T' connection or is the check valve on the inlet of the pump?

Dave

[Old car]

Dave,
Not sure if I ran the city water long enough to fill the hot water tank but I did run it long enough to get water out of the pressure relief valve. As I said previously, while on the city water port, when we opened one faucet the canister would drain and water would only slowly trickle into the canister.

In terms of water flow direction: line from the fresh water tank, then the by pass valve, then the "T" for the winterizing line, line to the pump with the inlet check valve on the pump inlet. I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow after work and post it here.

[Dave_Monica]

Originally Posted by Old car

Dave,
Not sure if I ran the city water long enough to fill the hot water tank but I did run it long enough to get water out of the pressure relief valve. As I said previously, while on the city water port, when we opened one faucet the canister would drain and water would only slowly trickle into the canister.

In terms of water flow direction: line from the fresh water tank, then the by pass valve, then the "T" for the winterizing line, line to the pump with the inlet check valve on the pump inlet. I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow after work and post it here.

I can understand the low flow while on city water if that was while the water heater was being filled. If the water heater was full and you still had low flow...that would be puzzling.

You have to close the valve on the fresh water tank line to have pump suction on the winterizing line...is that correct? Is that valve still closed or not opening properly?

Dave

[youroo]

I hope it is a better valve than this type fromC/W! Youroo!!

[Old car]

Took several pictures but they didn't turn out very well.