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Old 11-20-2015, 03:25 PM   #11
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To Oscarsmom2, I think you are right about the low water drain because there wasn't any water in the water heater when we finally got the anode out so that is helpful to know as well
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Old 11-20-2015, 03:56 PM   #12
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Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?
I leave the anode rod out all winter. I've never had any "critters"get into the water heater. It is COLD in there during the winter...no reason for them to get in the heater.
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Old 11-20-2015, 09:07 PM   #13
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All this just makes me not feel as bad as I normally do about living in California. Then again the lower cost of living out of CA would offset the cost of having a service tech do the job of winterizing the TT.

Happy Holidays to you all.
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Old 11-21-2015, 10:53 AM   #14
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You should try living in Washington DC suburbs, it's just about as expensive as living in CA plus having to winterize
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Old 11-24-2015, 10:47 AM   #15
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We did end up using the antifreeze inlet, it just took a lot of searching to find the valve to allow the inlet to work. It ended up being behind the pump under the bathroom sink and was difficult to see. Once we used the valve, the antifreeze pumped great through the system. You are right that it will not pump from the city water inlet.
Which way should the valve be turned? I have a lever on the outside of my Windjammer 3025W marked "Winterize"; Do I still have to open or close the valve that feeds into the Water Purifier? I have removed the cartridge. I just can't figure out what to do with that valve. The only valve I see next to the pump appears to feed directly to the purifier. I am a little lost on this issue.
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Old 11-24-2015, 01:11 PM   #16
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We pumped antifreeze through the water purifier (without the filter). We don't have a valve on the outside of the trailer to winterize, only an inlet for the antifreeze. The valve next to our pump (inside the trailer under the bathroom sink) allowed the outside inlet for winterizing to pump the antifreeze though the system. Without turning the valve, the outside inlet wouldn't suck antifreeze into the system at all. We also talked to dealer yesterday and they said to leave the anode rod out the water heater during the winter.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:04 PM   #17
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Thank you. Going to finish this job tonight. Just another excuse to see the windjammer.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:17 AM   #18
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It's been my experience that if I open the low point drains for the water lines before removing the anode rod on the water tank that there is very little or no water in the water tank. The water must have somehow drained out through the low point drain.
Caution: If you open the low point drains without isolating the HWT (winterizing bypass), sludge/sediment from the HWT can and will be drawn into the RV's plumbing. It can thereafter be a PITA to clean it out.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:32 AM   #19
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I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.
The bypass system is there to prevent antifreeze from getting into the HWT. I suspect the dealer with the split tank demo was spinning some yarn. The tank was likely left to freeze while partially full.
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Old 11-25-2015, 04:43 AM   #20
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Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?
Always. There are no critters of concern when we hit -30 and then some. Some suggest leaving the anode out to let the residual H2O evaporate so that the HWT doesn't get damaged when it freezes. Truth is, the residual water, once frozen, will not damage the tank.
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