Winterizing a windjammer 3008w and draining the water heater

[dkkirkland]

After much searching my husband and I finally successfully winterized the TT, but we had a few issues. We couldn't figure out how to use the antifreeze inlet where the city water hooked in so ended up putting antifreeze in the fresh tank and was able to pump it through the system. We realize that we'll have a lot of sanitizing the fresh tank next spring but couldn't get the trailer into dealer any sooner. Later we finally discovered the valve under the bathroom sink behind the water pump that you can't visually see. We pumped more antifreeze though the system and it works correctly. Our more difficult issue was draining the water heater. We used the bypass to ensure no antifreeze got in heater but could only drain water using top release valve. We finally were able to get a large enough fitting to remove the bolt at the bottom that holds the heating element and it didn't seem to have anymore water. Does anyone know an easier way or is there another easy to drain the water heater?

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by dkkirkland

After much searching my husband and I finally successfully winterized the TT, but we had a few issues. We couldn't figure out how to use the antifreeze inlet where the city water hooked in so ended up putting antifreeze in the fresh tank and was able to pump it through the system. We realize that we'll have a lot of sanitizing the fresh tank next spring but couldn't get the trailer into dealer any sooner. Later we finally discovered the valve under the bathroom sink behind the water pump that you can't visually see. We pumped more antifreeze though the system and it works correctly. Our more difficult issue was draining the water heater. We used the bypass to ensure no antifreeze got in heater but could only drain water using top release valve. We finally were able to get a large enough fitting to remove the bolt at the bottom that holds the heating element and it didn't seem to have anymore water. Does anyone know an easier way or is there another easy to drain the water heater?

First off all, that's an anode rod, not a heating element. It's something you'll want to remove and inspect at least 1 or 2 times a year. It will eventually wear out. So having the tools and know-how to take it out is a good thing.

Second, removing the anode rod really is the fastest way to drain the WH.

Lastly, that valve at the top is the pressure release valve. You want to use that to be sure there is no pressure built up in the WH before you take the anode rod out. If you don't, you'll certainly get an unexpected shower.

[youroo]

You should have a (Knowledgeable RV Person) check what you have done for Winterizing! I say this to Save you many $$$! It sounds like you were Trying but I am sure you may have Missed something! You will sleep much better knowing how and what to do Properly! Youroo!!

[dkkirkland]

Thanks for the replies and the tt is going to the shop for warranty work Monday so we'll have them double check. I figured I'd ask the forum because so far I've received excellent advice and we thought removing the anode was the correct way to remove the water. When we did remove it, there didn't seem to be any water left. We wanted to be sure there was not another valve to drain the water so you all have confirmed our suspicions and we will review with dealer as well.

[OscarsMom2]

It's been my experience that if I open the low point drains for the water lines before removing the anode rod on the water tank that there is very little or no water in the water tank. The water must have somehow drained out through the low point drain.

This was my first year to use the antifreeze inlet. I used a short hose with a male hose adapter. That end of the hose connects to the inlet and the other end is placed in the antifreeze jug. You need to turn a valve by the water pump to keep the antifreeze from going into the fresh water tank. I turned on the pump and opened one valve in the TT at a time to pump antifreeze into the lines. It worked great!

[UltraV]

We have an 2618 UltraV which may be a little different than your unit. I would think that you would have a separate inlet for the antifreeze and not have to use the city water connection. With city water I don't know how you would get enough pressure to get the antifreeze in your lines without a pump. Our inlet is located at the very back of the unit and is close to the water pump. The first time I tried to use it there wasn't enough suction to pull the antifreeze out of the jug. It helped a lot to raise the jug up to the level of inlet and use a short hose and then it siphoned out pretty well.

[redcloud1]

I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by redcloud1

I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.

That's usually not recommended. You'll have to do some serious flushing out to get it all out in the spring.

Typically even if there is a small amount left in the tank, there's plenty of room for it to expand and not crack the water heater. It's pretty rare for a tank to crack unless it wasn't drained at all.

[dkkirkland]

We did end up using the antifreeze inlet, it just took a lot of searching to find the valve to allow the inlet to work. It ended up being behind the pump under the bathroom sink and was difficult to see. Once we used the valve, the antifreeze pumped great through the system. You are right that it will not pump from the city water inlet.

[stantyszka]

Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?

[dkkirkland]

To Oscarsmom2, I think you are right about the low water drain because there wasn't any water in the water heater when we finally got the anode out so that is helpful to know as well

[Capt. Mike]

Originally Posted by stantyszka

Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?

I leave the anode rod out all winter. I've never had any "critters"get into the water heater. It is COLD in there during the winter...no reason for them to get in the heater.

[buffalohunter]

All this just makes me not feel as bad as I normally do about living in California. Then again the lower cost of living out of CA would offset the cost of having a service tech do the job of winterizing the TT.

Happy Holidays to you all.

[dkkirkland]

You should try living in Washington DC suburbs, it's just about as expensive as living in CA plus having to winterize

[RusLwt001]

Originally Posted by dkkirkland

We did end up using the antifreeze inlet, it just took a lot of searching to find the valve to allow the inlet to work. It ended up being behind the pump under the bathroom sink and was difficult to see. Once we used the valve, the antifreeze pumped great through the system. You are right that it will not pump from the city water inlet.

Which way should the valve be turned? I have a lever on the outside of my Windjammer 3025W marked "Winterize"; Do I still have to open or close the valve that feeds into the Water Purifier? I have removed the cartridge. I just can't figure out what to do with that valve. The only valve I see next to the pump appears to feed directly to the purifier. I am a little lost on this issue.

[dkkirkland]

We pumped antifreeze through the water purifier (without the filter). We don't have a valve on the outside of the trailer to winterize, only an inlet for the antifreeze. The valve next to our pump (inside the trailer under the bathroom sink) allowed the outside inlet for winterizing to pump the antifreeze though the system. Without turning the valve, the outside inlet wouldn't suck antifreeze into the system at all. We also talked to dealer yesterday and they said to leave the anode rod out the water heater during the winter.

[RusLwt001]

Thank you. Going to finish this job tonight. Just another excuse to see the windjammer.

[kandl]

Originally Posted by OscarsMom2

It's been my experience that if I open the low point drains for the water lines before removing the anode rod on the water tank that there is very little or no water in the water tank. The water must have somehow drained out through the low point drain.

Caution: If you open the low point drains without isolating the HWT (winterizing bypass), sludge/sediment from the HWT can and will be drawn into the RV's plumbing. It can thereafter be a PITA to clean it out.

[kandl]

Originally Posted by redcloud1

I go one step further with the water heater after a dealer showed me a water heater that had split from the water that didn't drain from the bottom of the tank. After putting the antifreeze in I switch the bypass back and run some info the water heater.

The bypass system is there to prevent antifreeze from getting into the HWT. I suspect the dealer with the split tank demo was spinning some yarn. The tank was likely left to freeze while partially full.

[kandl]

Originally Posted by stantyszka

Anyone put their anode rod back in for winterizing? Other solution to prevent critters from squeezing in there?

Always. There are no critters of concern when we hit -30 and then some. Some suggest leaving the anode out to let the residual H2O evaporate so that the HWT doesn't get damaged when it freezes. Truth is, the residual water, once frozen, will not damage the tank.