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Old 10-12-2014, 06:49 PM   #11
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I would leave a small amount of A/F in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out.
Yes, took about a cup to cover the seal in my unit, A/F is not the best smelling stuff but I would rather that than a frozen seal.

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Old 10-12-2014, 07:31 PM   #12
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Rick,
If your Rockwood is like mine, there's a selector valve at the pump suction that switches between tank suction and winterizing suction so you don't need to disconnect the pump. You will have to put a small amount of antifreeze in the fresh water tank so the pump can pull antifreeze up the tank suction line. You did blow out the city water inlet, but did you ever put any antifreeze in there? I also leave the bathroom roof vent open (fantastic fan has a cover over the vent) and crack open a window or two to prevent condensation. You don't need to remove the TV's unless you're worried about theft, just unplug them so they warm up fully in the spring before they are energized.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:54 PM   #13
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Thanks, WBDavey! Since we are retired US Air Force, we can park our camper at the RV lot at the Air Force Academy and it's right next to the Security Forces headquarters so nothing ever happens there. Hardly anyone even removes batteries! When we went from an 18-footer to this 33-footer, they gave us a new pull-through parking site which is wonderful. ($20 more a month but definitely worth it.)

Thanks for the cracking open the fantastic fan tip, I've heard that was a good idea but wasn't sure.

We have two other fans (over the master bedroom and one in the living room) but they don't have the fantastic fan covers...has anyone replaced their covers up on the roof?
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:04 PM   #14
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Great list and additional input. For those who have taken out their TV is there a quick release on these? I have a 2015 2305s which has an outside TV mount option. I thought I could easily move it from inside to outside but it appears it is screwed on tightly to the inside mounting mechanism. Is there a "quick release" mechanism I have missed?
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:11 PM   #15
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Anyone cover the fridge vents to keep mousies and bugs out? What do you use? Had a horrible infestation w a previous trailer one year and had to replace the refrigerator. After that I took out vent and cut a piece of weather resistant plywood and screwed it into place w light caulk to seal. Mice had crawled up inside of RV cover put on for winter and up through vent holes. Ugh!
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by melang54 View Post
Great list and additional input. For those who have taken out their TV is there a quick release on these? I have a 2015 2305s which has an outside TV mount option. I thought I could easily move it from inside to outside but it appears it is screwed on tightly to the inside mounting mechanism. Is there a "quick release" mechanism I have missed?
I believe the entire thing just lifts up but it was demo'd during walkthrough and I haven't taken it off yet.

Rocky is parked at the house and we're heading out tomorrow...I'll let you know!!
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Old 10-16-2014, 04:38 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by melang54 View Post
Great list and additional input. For those who have taken out their TV is there a quick release on these? I have a 2015 2305s which has an outside TV mount option. I thought I could easily move it from inside to outside but it appears it is screwed on tightly to the inside mounting mechanism. Is there a "quick release" mechanism I have missed?
No, no release latch or anything...

I'm in the camper and both TV's just lift up and the mounting bracket on the wall has two little posts that come straight up.

The lighter TV in the bedroom was super-easy but the bigger TV in the living room is heavier but I found if I lifted the TV with one hand and then lifted up on the bracket with the other, they came right up. (Be careful, though...I almost lost my grip on the TV.)
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:41 AM   #18
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Okay, after reading every post in here about winterization and watching hours and hours of youtube videos, I've created a checklist for winterizing.
(I do not have an ice maker on the fridge nor a washer and dryer and my trailer has the external antifreeze inlet and has the water heater cut-off valves.)

I won't run through this for about a week-and-a-half so maybe some of you experienced folks can see if this sounds right:
Rocky Winterization Checklist
4 bottles of RV antifreeze; small trash can; rags/paper towel; Ziploc bags; tape; blow out plug; antifreeze feeder plug; 1&1/16ths socket with extension & wrench
Ensure all gray & black tanks were thoroughly cleaned & emptied prior.
Wash RV from top to bottom.
Ensure tires are at proper inflation, dont forget spare tire.
Locate & open the low point drain lines. There will be one for the hot & cold water lines. Using the water pump will help force water out, but turn it off as soon as the system is drained.
By-pass the water heater. (Hot/Cold lines OFF & middle bypass valve OPEN)
Ensure electric switch on water heater is off. Relieve pressure then drain the water heater. Remove the drain plug/anode rod.
Open faucets to relieve pressure, then put small trash can underneath water filter glass holder, unscrew it, dump water, remove filter, & replace.
Insert blow out plug to city inlet water connector, connect to compressor, & set for 30 PSI.
One by one, open all hot & cold faucets to let all water blow out; dont forget the toilet valve & inside & outside showers.
Turn on water pump & quickly clear all of the lines. (Dont let pump run empty for long, 30-secs tops.)
Recap all drains & close all faucets. Remove blow out plug, then connect to, & blow out, black tank cleaner.
Disconnect the inlet side of the water pump (the line coming from the fresh water holding tank).
Connect a piece of clear tubing to the inlet side of the antifreeze inlet valve & put the other end into a one gallon container of non-toxic RV antifreeze. (One person outside manning the antifreeze & one person inside.)
Turn the water pump on & pressurize the system. Starting with the bathroom faucet, slowly open the hot & then cold valves until antifreeze appears. Do same on both shower lines then the toilet.
Move to kitchen & open hot & cold until pink antifreeze flows.
Move outside & open hot & cold faucets on outside shower until pink antifreeze flows.
Turn the water pump off & open a faucet to release the pressure.
Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain (bathroom/shower/two kitchen sinks). Pour a couple of cups in the toilet & flush into the holding tank. Put an inch or so into toilet.
Make sure all the faucets are closed.
Insert anode rode into water heater, but not snug. (Prevents rust from developing.)
Cut tops off of the empty antifreeze jugs & open both gray tanks & black tank to empty them.
Go from back to front of trailer, in every cabinet & drawer; ensure nothing is in the camper that can freeze. (Food, cans, liquids, batteries,etc.) Also remove all food & anything made of paper. (Mice)
Clean out any liquids from sinks/tub/toilet with paper towel.
Remove TVs & remotes from trailer. (Store remotes in ziplocs & tape to TVs)
Drive camper to RV Storage lot. Bring awning covers & clips & tire covers & bungee cords.
Lower the stabilizers on the trailer.
Chalk tires on both sides
Prop fridge doors open.
Ensure ALL windows are closed & all blinds are down.
Cover tires well with covers.
Install awning covers & holding clamps.
Remove batteries & propane tanks. Hide all cables & safety chains underneath plastic tank hood.
The unit is winterized!
INSPECTIONS DURING WINTER (On a dry day to avoid introducing moisture):
Ensure tires are inflated, dont forget spare.
Check outside & inside for any signs of critters. (Droppings, sheddings, etc.)
Inspect awning covers & tire covers & caulks. Tighten & loosen anode plug to prevent rusting.
If tires are looking like they are settling, drive camper a few feet forward or backwards.
Air out camper, check all windows & seals & look for any signs of water or mold.
Check for signs of movement by high winds, adjust if needed.

Very good writeup. Thanks
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Old 11-21-2014, 03:17 PM   #19
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I have a Rockwood 2109S so this model may be different to set up for winterizing.
I do not have or could not find a water heater bypass. I am not sure why I would need one anyway? I have always drained the WH on my other camper by pulling the anode rod and I did the same on the 2109.
I do not see the sense in running antifreeze through all the water lines. If they are drained properly what is there to freeze?
I used my little compressor to blow out the lines after replacing the anode rod. I was too lazy to do anything with the water filter but after blowing out the lines I noticed that the filter had no more water in it. Apparently the blow out process had cleared out the filter body. Bonus!
The instruction book from Forest River said to remove the filter, a messy & difficult process, and replace it with a new one every season. I did not see any sense in doing this either as the trailer saw light use this year and a new filter is $20.
I opened the low point drains which weren't even mentioned in the book. Note to factory: It would be a lot easier to open these drains if they had drain cocks with handles instead of caps.
I did pour a little anti freeze down each sink to keep the P traps from freezing.
I did not put any in the toilet because I don't think neoprene seals can actually dry out.
I guess we'll see if I did things right when we take it out next year.
I took that great tip from someone here on the Forest River site on covering the awning with a couple of pieces of plastic house gutter. The commercial gutter cover costs around $100 but mine is protected for $8 for the gutter from Home Depot.
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