12 volt resettable breaker

[bob213]

I have a 2012 Surveyor 264. On my last trailer I had a resttable breaker on the tongue after the battery. On this trailer I have 2 blade fuses for the electric stabilizer jacks. I don't see a resettable breaker. Is there one? Where should I look? I'm not having a problem but would like to know for future reference or maybe carry a spare?
Thanks for any suggestions.

[Bama Rambler]

If it's not on the tongue, it's probably under the front of the RV on the frame.

On our 280, it was just under the front of the RV on the frame beside the tongue.

[bob213]

My wires from the battery go thru a grommet on the front frame. Nothing to that point. Should I take down the bottom cover material and look above it?

[Ford Idaho]

Look inside of the tongue rail, follow the wires.

If it is not there then look inside a storage bay it may be mounted on the wall.

[bob213]

Never did find it.

[Bama Rambler]

I know on our 280 that we had it was hidden on the frame covered by the coroplast.

Apparently your unit doesn't have one. I think I'd add one near the battery just for insurance.

[stevejahr]

IMHO: I just added a 120A breaker right in front of my battery and removed the 40A mystery breaker from the frame just under the front of the trailer. Really did not like the rats nest of wires and extra fuses hanging down on the frame so I made it all go away. Now one good breaker as close to the battery as I can get, NO unprotected wires, and real fuse blocks in a protected location that I can access.

[bob213]

Thanks Bama Rambler
Pulled down coroplast and found it. Can't see without removing it how many amps it is. If I was going to purchase a spare, how many amps should I get.
I just like to be prepared. Things always seem to break when I'm hundreds of miles from a store.

[stevejahr]

"how many amps should I get?"

That is a big question.

I rewired my setup running 4G wire from the battery to a power distribution panel that I created/added. Now 4G wire can handle a lot of power, thus I protected that with a 120A breaker. At the panel the downstream wiring downshifts to 10G so I feed each circuit with a 30A or 40A fuse. My main breaker from the factory was 40A, thus I used a 40A fuse for the main power feed going out of my power distribution panel. I had two 30A fuses hanging off the old main breaker which fed each slideout. Those got their own dedicated 30A fuses on the power distribution panel.

So basically you want to fuse to a size corresponding to the capability of the wire downstream. The smaller the downstream wire the lower the fuse rating to use with it.

I ran the new bigger wire from battery to panel as I was adding solar into that point of the system and anticipate I may add an inverter on the panel some time down the road. These would require more power handling than the original 8G battery feed wires.

You could also look at it this way: if you have a very hard to reach breaker... you want to never trip that one so you should use the next size smaller out front where you *can* get to it and reset it ;-)

[Bama Rambler]

On the 280 we had it was a 40 amp.

I remember because I still have a spare that I bought and never used. But, as my old friend Johnny Dyer used to say "I'd rather have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it."

[bob213]

Thanks Bama. I'll pick one up and add it to the collection. DW thinks I carry enough to rebuild the trailer but so far we've always had what we need to keep going.