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Old 02-24-2019, 10:24 PM   #1
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2019 248BHLE weights

Hello everyone, looks like my first post is going to be one of "those". lol.

Ok, quick bit of background, then I'll get to the point. I currently have a 2011 R-Pod 176 that we camp in a couple of times a year with a family of 4 and an 80lb dog. We love the camper, and we've had zero issues with it, but it's really starting to get cramped. Now that the kids are older, we are considering upgrading to a larger trailer that will fit everyone better. Additionally, we spent the last 7 years hauling the Rpod with a 2011 explorer, and now that the explorer is north of 200k, we grabbed a 2011 F-150 Platinum for a decent price to start using as the family hauler (putting the explorer on commuter duty only), and to replace an old dodge Ram pickup we had.

Now that we've got a truck that has some additional towing capacity (its an ecoboost with the max tow package), we started looking at larger trailers.

The problem, unsurprisingly, that I'm worried about now is going over on payload. The truck has a GCWR of 17,200lbs, and is rated to tow up to 11,200 with my configuration, so the thing that's going to do me in quickly is payload.

The GVWR of the truck is 7700 lbs, but I don't know what the curb weight is yet. There aren't any conveniently located scales nearby, so I'm going to have to make a trip someday soon to get the curb weight and see what's left.

What I'm hoping someone here can help me with, are the loaded weights of one of these 248bhle's. The listed hitch weight is listed at 610lbs, which is only 11% of the listed dry trailer weight of 5504.

So the questions;
The 5504 includes LP gas, does the 610?
Intelligently loaded, how easy is it to keep that 11% hitch weight ratio? It looks like most of the storage is up front :-/.

Has anyone that owns one of these put it on a scale to see how much weight your getting on the hitch with the trailer full of typical gear?

Obviously, this is going to vary depending on how heavily you load it, and where you put your load (in the front passthrough, under the bed, on the bunks, etc), but I'm curious what some real world numbers are.

We tend to travel pretty light, just clothes, toiletries, food, camp chairs and a few tools, so I'd be really surprised if we had more than a couple hundred pounds of stuff that we bring along typically. And I never tow with the tanks full, I fill-up at the campground.

So while I wait to see how much payload I actually have, and while I look at smaller/lighter campers, i was hoping someone could give me some real world numbers to play with...specifically how negatively hitch weight on this layout is impacted when the trailer gets loaded up.
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Old 02-25-2019, 09:21 AM   #2
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Maybe you should ask a mod to move this to the towing sub-forum.
You will probably get more responses there.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:52 AM   #3
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First off, welcome!

Second, thank you for looking into #'s prior to purchasing. From your first post, it's clear you're thinking about the combination and setting it up correctly.

Let's get into it.....

For a quick reference on your truck, check the yellow sticker on the driver door jamb. It is the lower one. See what the "1607" is on your sticker. This will give you a close figure as to what your truck can take for driver, passengers, hound, cargo in the bed and tongue weight on the hitch.



Based on your GVWR of 7700, I'm guessing your truck's payload is somewhere near 1750ish. My '11 was an XLT Crewcab Eco 4x4 and had a GVWR of 7200 and 1529 available payload. With a higher GVWR, but having the Platinum accessories, 1750 is probably close.

My experience:
My trailer empty weighed 6008 off the lot. It listed at 5836 UVW with a 581 hitch weight. Once it was loaded with full propane tanks, 2 batteries, gear, clothes, 5 gallons of fresh water, etc, it was right around 7000 with a 800 pound tongue weight.

Below are my figures for weighing and how the WDH worked.

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Overall, the truck towed the trailer pretty well. My truck was a crewcab with a 5.5' bed. The trailer was nearly 30' long and the truck handled it well (with the WDH adjusted correctly, per the scale weights). The ecoboost provided plenty of power; however, it averaged about 8.5-9 mpg towing.

After having a major issue with the Ecoboost engine at 71k (that Ford couldn't explain why) we ultimately traded up to a gasser F250. The 1529 payload on the F150 was about maxed out with me, my wife and 2 sons in the cab and a propane tank, fire pit, 3 bikes in the bed and the tongue weight.

That being said, we never felt unsafe or had any scary moments in the 4200 miles of towing in the F150.

If you have any more questions, PM me directly, I'm more than happy to walk you through them. I also have that spreadsheet available if you want to start really working with the numbers on your truck.

Best of luck.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:13 AM   #4
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That sticker is actually why I want to find a scale. So the GVWR on my truck is 7700lbs, but according to that sticker, I only have 1485lbs of available payload. That means my truck would weigh 6215lbs empty. That seems like a lot.



I got my truck used (it's a Canadian F150) and the dealership I got it from turned out to be kind of shadey (they spray painted over rocker rust, etc), so I'm planning on weighing the truck to see if that number is still accurate. Some of the skid plates and such appear to have been removed from the underside, so I'm wondering what else may have been on the truck originally that had the weight so high.


If my available payload really is 1485, then this trailer will be too big. With myself, the wife, 2 kids, the dog and gas, plus drinks and toys in the cab, I bet we chew up at least 800lbs of that. That only leaves me around 650 or so on the hitch, which isn't anywhere near enough for a trailer this size.



Looks like your trailer hung in there at about 11% on the hitch. I was hopeful the 248BHLE would be similar, which if we have around 1700-1800lbs payload (like the included towing guide claims) we'd be ok. But, it's all going to come down to that payload number.


Is all your trailer storage up front as well? Is the fresh water tank behind the axle? I typically tow dry, but if I can even the load out by putting some water in the tank I probably would. I have plenty of headroom on the tow weight and GCWR. It's the payload that's gonna kill me.


What popped on your ecoboost? Stretch the timing chain? These little motors are super sensitive to service intervals and plug gap. I was able to get the dealer down a few hundred extra dollars because the truck had a miss on cylinder 6 (it needed new plugs).
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:43 AM   #5
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FISH, the mistake you made was buying a Platinum.
All that bling reduces payload.
I bought a 2014 Canadian XTR with Max tow package.
Its payload is 1828lbs.
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Old 02-25-2019, 11:52 AM   #6
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I guess. We didn't buy the truck as a tow vehicle, we bought it to replace an old 98 Dodge, and to serve as the family vehicle for trips. Now that we have it, we are considering a trailer upgrade, but that wasn't it's purpose.


I also didn't go looking for a platinum, it just appeared to be in the best shape of the half a dozen or so we looked at.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:02 PM   #7
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Welcome from SoCal!

When you go to weigh your truck, try to get loaded as closely as possible to the way it will be when you go camping. Either that or go as empty as you can for a picture of your total payload. Then weigh everything that will go into the truck and in the trailer.

While shopping, you can do a quick estimate by simply taking 15% of the trailer's GVWR.

I'm a believer in safety margins, es[ecially where my family is concerned.

Good Luck!
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FISHTAILN5OH View Post
.....Is all your trailer storage up front as well? Is the fresh water tank behind the axle?.....
Yes. We have a pass through storage up front where we store all of our outdoor gear such as chairs, campstove, games, etc. On the drive side it carries the leveling blocks, tools, utility connections. The fresh water is right up front as well...literally under the queen bed.

I'm really surprised your payload is that little. What is the configuration on your truck? Crewcab with a 6.5' bed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FISHTAILN5OH View Post
.....What popped on your ecoboost? Stretch the timing chain? These little motors are super sensitive to service intervals and plug gap. I was able to get the dealer down a few hundred extra dollars because the truck had a miss on cylinder 6 (it needed new plugs).
Both exhaust manifolds started to leak at 70k miles. I bought the truck with 43k (Canadian as well) and towed our trailer 4200 miles total with it.

Ford said that the waste gates on the turbos malfunctioned causing too much pressure to build and not release. With too much pressure, heat built up causing the exhaust manifolds to warp and leak. The truck also was making the terrible timing chain start up grind; however, that turned out to be the electronic vacuum pump. It was replaced twice under warranty in my ownership of that vehicle. Thankfully, I purchased an extended warranty. The repair was roughly $6000 and it cost me about $500 out of pocket (deductible, misc. parts and an oil change)

During the time of the exhaust leak, my trailer was also in the shop for a $6000 suspension repair that was deemed a manufacturer welding defect. Lippert (LCI) covered that entirely.

With both the truck and trailer in the shop, our 3rd baby on the way and reassessing our vehicle needs, my wife and I went back to a traditional V8. The F250 with the 6.2 is a gas guzzler but it's a very simple engine. We pay for it at the pump; however, the lack of complexity found in the Ecoboost and diesel engines isn't there.

I do have to say, I miss the F150. It was a great truck and served us well for the time we had it. My issue with the manifolds was a fluke deal. For the 1 problem I had, I can name 5 people that own the same generation Ecoboost truck that have 100k trouble free miles.
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Old 02-25-2019, 12:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CurtPutnam View Post
......I'm a believer in safety margins, especially where my family is concerned.....
AGREED!!!
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Old 02-25-2019, 01:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkbre View Post
Yes. We have a pass through storage up front where we store all of our outdoor gear such as chairs, campstove, games, etc. On the drive side it carries the leveling blocks, tools, utility connections. The fresh water is right up front as well...literally under the queen bed.

I'm really surprised your payload is that little. What is the configuration on your truck? Crewcab with a 6.5' bed?



Both exhaust manifolds started to leak at 70k miles. I bought the truck with 43k (Canadian as well) and towed our trailer 4200 miles total with it.

Ford said that the waste gates on the turbos malfunctioned causing too much pressure to build and not release. With too much pressure, heat built up causing the exhaust manifolds to warp and leak. The truck also was making the terrible timing chain start up grind; however, that turned out to be the electronic vacuum pump. It was replaced twice under warranty in my ownership of that vehicle. Thankfully, I purchased an extended warranty. The repair was roughly $6000 and it cost me about $500 out of pocket (deductible, misc. parts and an oil change)

During the time of the exhaust leak, my trailer was also in the shop for a $6000 suspension repair that was deemed a manufacturer welding defect. Lippert (LCI) covered that entirely.

With both the truck and trailer in the shop, our 3rd baby on the way and reassessing our vehicle needs, my wife and I went back to a traditional V8. The F250 with the 6.2 is a gas guzzler but it's a very simple engine. We pay for it at the pump; however, the lack of complexity found in the Ecoboost and diesel engines isn't there.

I do have to say, I miss the F150. It was a great truck and served us well for the time we had it. My issue with the manifolds was a fluke deal. For the 1 problem I had, I can name 5 people that own the same generation Ecoboost truck that have 100k trouble free miles.

Truck is a super crew with a 6.5' box. I guess it might weigh 6200lbs, but I'd be surprised if it did. I'll find out once it's on the scale though.


My vacuum pump has made noise once or twice too. So I'm figuring I'll be replacing that before too long. The turbo's seem fine so far (94k on the truck now), but even if they do go I'm not worried about it. A brand new pair is 795 dollars, and I can fix it myself. Hopefully in the truck, but I'll pluck the motor out if needed.



Whomever owed my truck before took good care of it maintenance wise. First thing I did when I got home was replace all the fluids...trans, diff, transfer case, oil, coolant, brakes, etc, and they were all in good shape. Aside from the rocker rust I found after I got it, I love the truck.


Anyway, it's good to know your trailer is loaded fairly similar to what I would do, so if my payload is up around 1700 (which I'm hoping for) then it sounds like I should be able to safely tug a 248bhle properly loaded with a good WDH. I'll just have to be mindful NOT to load it to capacity, or I will go overweight.


That, or we'll just have to settle for something only slightly bigger than the R-pod, which seems nuts for a truck rated to pull 11k lbs. But that's payload capacity for you. Did you ever put yours on a scale to see if the door sticker was accurate? I'm wondering if the Canadian trucks use different assumptions when calculating available payload (like they include gas and the driver or something).
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