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Old 03-10-2011, 08:37 AM   #11
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Ford has had the battery isolation feature since the early 2000s....don't exactly know when that was started. I think GM and Dodge were later to come on board, but I think they all have that now. Not sure about Toyota and Nissan.

An easy way to tell is to use a check light at the Bargman connection with the engine on and then the engine off.
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:10 AM   #12
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I have a light that plugs into the connector. It has a selection feature that allows you to power it from the back up lights or the 12 volt line. The Light does not work with the engine off and the key out of the ignition. I will have to check to see if the light will work with just the key in "run" but the engine off (never did that). The light does work with engine running.
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:19 AM   #13
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My 2008 Dodge 1500 has power going to the 7 pin plug all the time!
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:53 AM   #14
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I have factory installed tow package not some dealer
add-on.

I like mine the way it is!!

I really don't want the truck to try to outsmart me.
If I want to plug in and use my truck battery for extra
boost or extra hours that's my decision, not some
truck computer programmer back in Detriot.

Yes I am sure. My truck will shut off headlights or
dome light or any light left on too long with the engine
off BUT the battery lead at the RV plug is always hot.

As I said, I have deliberately plugged in on cold nights when
we were boon-docking just so I could draw from the truck
battery. I especially did this before I added the 2nd
RV battery.

I "accidentally" ran my truck down once where it would
not start. We were in a full campground at Mammoth
Cave NP. I had a little genny that had a 12v output.
10 minutes on the genny and the truck started.
I could have gotten a jump from a fellow camper but
didn't need to. One time in 7 years ain't so bad

I wouldn't risk it if I was out in the middle of no-where
with no genny to re-charge but that's pretty rare even
for us.
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
But 1 of these days I am going to pull up too far and break something.....I really need to unhook the umbilical cord and then plug it back in after getting the proper distance.
That would be NASTY!! Might wreck the trailer AND the truck . . . I'm always double and triple checking to make sure the umbilical (and everything else) is unhooked. (Maybe a little obsessive compulsive here . . . )
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:33 AM   #16
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I have another question. Regarding the 7 pin plug...! how can I know if there is power that goes to the trailler? Regarding that website I'm now confused! I have the 7 pin plug, but which one is the one for the battery? please help me!!!
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:39 AM   #17
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Oups there is the website! trailer wiring diagram
[That website is for Australian trailers and is NOT the US standard!]
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:54 AM   #18
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Here is a picture of the TRUCK receptacle.
Looking at the bumper socket-- IF the notch is on top
the hot-12v is top right at 1 oclock.
The ground is lower left at 7 oclock.

You can test it with a meter or simple 12v bulb voltage tester.
Get a little digital meter from Radio Shack or Harbor Freight.
They come in handy all the time!!

Left photo is looking at the socket with the cover held
open. Right photo is looking at the socket from the
back of the socket where the wires connect.
(You probably can't see this side without taking the socket apart.)

My Chevy has this information imprinted on the socket
cover itself.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:19 PM   #19
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That is very usefull! I'll buy one soon
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:13 PM   #20
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That is weird...! I think I'll have to visit the dealer. I bought a 12v bulb voltage tester yesterday and once back home I tryed it. The result is very weird. My SUV had the engine running, the lights on (didn't select the auto light), hazard lights were on, my teenager had his foot on the breack pedal and there we are!

On the first try, the tester showed me the light when I touched the right signal (6) and also the tail running light (3).
Second try, nothing. The tester detected nothing.
Third try, same as the first one.

So I said to my teenager to turn off the hazard lights but keep the breack on. The result of that... nothing was detected at all!

I also have the 4 pin plug. I tested it and no result at all.

I think there is something there! But when my trailler is connected to my truck, all the lights on the trailler work, break lights work, left & right flasher lights work. The battery, I don't have a clue if it get charge or not.

I looked at all the fuses which are, regarding the owner book, for the trailler, they are all ok.

Last try will be to go to the trailler. Plug the trailler to the SUV then test the connection of the battery directly, on the battery's cable but without having the battery there. Like that I'll be able to figure it out if there is energy going to the battery.

Sometimes things are so complicated.
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