De-Winterize

rmdrifter · 06-25-2012, 09:54 AM

Hi Folks,

I'm sure this has been covered before, and I apologize for asking, but we just bought a used Surveyor 186SP, which came winterized. What are the hopefully simple steps to de-winterize so that we can hit the road asap?

Many Thanks!

RM Drifter

PrairieBoy · 06-25-2012, 12:38 PM

Here is what I would do.

-Make sure water heater element is turned off before plugging in trailer if it has an electrical element.
-Install plug with anode rod into water heater. Use teflon tape to seal threads.
-inspect input line to water pump and make sure it is attached or if it has a winterizing suction line that the valve is in the proper position for suction from your tank.
-Hook up to water supply and flush out all the antifreeze from all outlets hot and cold.
-operate valves on back of water heater for normal operation. There may be 1, 2, or 3 valves. (Most likely 3)
-Open hot water tap at one of the faucets to allow the hot water tank to fill.
-Operate both hot and cold taps at all outlets to get all the air out of the line. The hot water heater will have trapped air in it unless the trailer is level.

Not knowing how old the trailer is or how the water tank was used in the past I would be sanitizing the tank and your water system in that trailer before your 1st use. If you don't plan on using the water from the trailer for drinking then it is not as big of a deal but I would still sanitize.

rmdrifter · 06-25-2012, 12:47 PM

Thanks Todd! Trailer is relatively new--2009--and basically unused. I don't think they ever used the water system at all, believe or not. We intend to use it all: gray, black, hot, etc.

SCOC · 06-26-2012, 07:01 PM

Just a couple thoughts in case whoever winterized the trailer did it wrong...

In case they didn't flip the valves correctly/in time during winterizing, I would flush out the water heater before putting the anode rod in just in case they got some antifreeze in the water heater. It would be much easier to flush it out leaving the anode rod/plug out, rather than flsuhing it through the system. You might as well put a new anode rod in, they're cheap.

Also, I would hope they didn't put any antifreeze in the fresh water tank. But if there is, find the tank drain plug and flush it out through the drain rather than forcing it through the system as it would take a long time that way to get it out.

In addition to openeing the taps, I like to open up all the low point drains to completely flush out the pink from the lines.

Happy camping!

rmdrifter · 06-30-2012, 02:45 PM

The one point about this I don't fully understand is why you don't just hook up to city water to start with...is it because you need to flush the antifreeze from the pump and related pipes/tubing and that filling the fresh water tank is the only way to get it done? And after that you can then hook up to city water for the final flushing? Do I have it right? Thanks!

PrairieBoy · 06-30-2012, 04:04 PM

Once the antifreeze has been flushed from the pump and all lines then yes it is ok to hook up to a direct water connection. I would drain all remaining water out of your fresh water tank.

rmdrifter · 06-30-2012, 04:34 PM

Thanks Todd, do you know why there is no ground wire to the battery...is the electrical system grounded in some other way? Also, red to positive, blue to negative on the battery terminals?

PrairieBoy · 06-30-2012, 05:22 PM

Without being there and seeing the wiring myself, I can't confidently answer that question. Our Surveyor is in our seasonal site but I will be there tonight and can check what colors our trailer is wired to and let you know tomorrow. If this can wait until next week You could give the reps at Surveyor an email.
Kristin:
kgriffin@forestriverinc.com

rmdrifter · 06-30-2012, 05:30 PM

Thanks, note reply above. While I'm not an electrical maven, I think I can follow the wires. If I still have no luck, I will contact the Surveyor folks--I have their number. It's really good to learn how the trailer works--I don't like not having a clue.

PrairieBoy · 06-30-2012, 05:35 PM

When you figure it out, make sure to label the connections so you don't make a mistake the next time you have to figure it out. I like to wrap black electrical tape on the negative wires and red electrical tape on the positive wires.

rmdrifter · 06-30-2012, 05:38 PM

Good suggestion, thanks.

rmdrifter · 07-02-2012, 04:10 PM

Ok, finally got around to looking at the water pump. There are three valves as was suggested above: one for hot, one for cold, and one in the center of a tube connecting the hot and cold. The hot and cold valves are in the off or closed position; the connector valve is on or open. When I complete dewinterizing or draining system of anti-freeze, how should these three valves be positioned to fill the hot water tank? Thanks, RM Drifter

rmdrifter · 07-02-2012, 04:58 PM

My guess would be that once anti-freeze is purged from the system, close valve that connects hot and cold lines, and open hot and cold line valves. Cold water can then fill hot water tank, be heated and go to faucets. Also, whoever mentioned that anti-freeze might be in fresh water tank was correct: I drained fresh water tank and then refilled, but I have not pumped yet pending confirmation of how to set valves around pump. --RM Drifter

PrairieBoy · 07-02-2012, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdrifter

My guess would be that once anti-freeze is purged from the system, close valve that connects hot and cold lines, and open hot and cold line valves. Cold water can then fill hot water tank, be heated and go to faucets. Also, whoever mentioned that anti-freeze might be in fresh water tank was correct: I drained fresh water tank and then refilled, but I have not pumped yet pending confirmation of how to set valves around pump. --RM Drifter

You are correct. Open a hot water tap a bit when filling hot water tank and the tank should fill. If your trailer is not level, it may be hard to get all the air out of the heater so don't worry about a little air in the tank until you get to your site and start camping.

rschoono289 · 07-02-2012, 07:49 PM

Another caution: You should make sure the hot water heater element switch is OFF (this switch is accessed from outside in most trailers) as the heater element wont last more than a few seconds if you connect AC to the trailer before filling HW tank. A breaker is also on the AC distribution panel in series with the HW switch. There is also a HW heater switch on a control panel inside the TT but this is only for propane.

Enjoy your new TT

rmdrifter · 07-03-2012, 11:39 AM

Interestingly, had a conversation with a couple of friends last night, both of whom have travel trailers, and they winterize differently from how I understand most folks do. They level the trailers, hit the bypass on the line to the water heater and then drain it, open the faucets, open the drains, turn on the pump. When no more water comes out, they pour a little anti-freeze in the sinks and toilet, and that's it. We all live at 8000' and can have some very cold winter days as in -30°, and they have been winterizing this way for years without a problem. This simple method sure beats putting several gallons of anti-freeze in the fresh water holding tank. Anyone else out there do it this way?

PrairieBoy · 07-03-2012, 01:23 PM

At the very least they should blow out the lines with compressed air.

PrairieBoy · 07-03-2012, 01:28 PM

You do not need to put antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Drain the water out of the tank and make a suction hose to fit on the intake of the pump or better yet, install a 2-way valve with a suction line and suck the antifreeze out of the jug to winterize your trailer. This will take less than a gallon to winterize

rmdrifter · 07-10-2012, 01:16 PM

No, they don't use compressed air...maybe they've just been lucky so far. As to your idea of for the pump, it's a really good one...hadn't thought of it although I did use that very method on our old popup.

Here's another one: I've been gone the past week fishing in Durango and we go heavy rains back here during that time. It turns out the the bathroom skylight leaks like a sieve. What's the step-by-step procedure for fixing this problem and what potentially related issues should I investigate? Thanks, RM Drifter

vp22er · 07-10-2012, 04:55 PM

Seems to be a common problem with Surveyors. You'll need to drop the inner skylight( it's 2, inner,outer) dry out and check for any water damage. On the outer skylight check the sealant for cracks. Use dicor self leveling sealant to reseal. Check Forums for skylight leaks for additional info. Good luck, and Happy Camping.

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