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Old 07-28-2016, 03:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by bobothewizard View Post
Harbor freight is awesome, got a multimeter for like $6. So when i check the different parts, how do i know what is working and what is not? Is it based on if power is going to the piece?

For instance when i check the thermostat, if it has voltage going to it how would i know if its bad or not?

I knew i should have taken electrical engineering in college
YOU actually pay for their multimeter!!!

I probably got a half dozen lying around all FREE. Go to their website and sign up for their mailing list. you get emails, online coupons, monthly mailing. Usually the only way to get their 25% off coupon is via an email.
You can also look in any home do it magazine, Sunday coupon flyer, etc and get free coupons. some with no purchase necessary, most with any purchase. Then there is always the 20% off coupon. good for the highest price item even if it is on sale or you have a special pricing coupon for it.
Normal freebies include 25ft tape measure, scissors, flashlight, screwdriver set, the multimeter, and assorted other things.
BTW they do sell their deep well impact lockets in the standard lug nut sizes individually. you can also get breaker bars on sale.

Then the best part of it all is they offer $6.99 shipping on most orders.
I paid $6.99 to have them ship a 20 ton bottle jack and their 12 ton jack stands. got em both on sale and used a 25& off the jack stands. I also had a coupon for a free multi meter that order.
BTW although though their hand tools are imports, they are lifetime guaranteed
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:57 PM   #12
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I found this and it is a fairly simple representation of the circuit that should help you determine your problem.
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:02 PM   #13
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i have a quick question. When i changed the heating element out it was a 1440w element and i put in a 1500w heating element from lowes, is this ok to do or should i change it back to the 1440w element instead of the 1500w?
WHAT is the rated VOLTAGE on the 1500 element you purchased???
IF you installed a 240v element- that won't work very well.
It must be a 120v element.
Also as others have said you need to check for 120v AC AT the element
screws.
Be CAREFUL. If you don't feel confident doing this pay a pro or at least ask
a knowledgeable person in the neighborhood.
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:57 AM   #14
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You guys are amazing, seriously look at all the help. It truly is awesome!

So looking at the schematic it doesnt seem as complicated as i thought. It really is only a positive and negative wire broken by a switch on the negative

The heating element was a 120v element. So if the thermostat is the same for both electric and gas i will assume, for now, the thermostat is good.

So for the first steps tonight when i get to tbe camper is check to make sure power is getting to the element, then if not check to see if the thermostat has power then back to the switch.

I did call a local rv dealer and they wanted to charge $180 just for the ride, that didnt include parts and labor. I will try to figure it out myself. For that price i could just change the thermostat and switch out and be done.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:04 AM   #15
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Please post your model number!
I believe you have a separate thermostat for gas and another for electric.
It's very possible that your electric thermostat is tripped or burned out.
The only way to tell is to measure voltage -at- the heating element.
IE- place a meter set on AC volts across the 2 screws where the wires
connect to the element.

There might be units out there with one thermostat for gas and electric but
my current and previous 3 trailers HAD SEPARATE THERMOSTATS.
Measure volts at the heating element!

Be careful and good luck!
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:45 AM   #16
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kydan, i will do that tonight. I was sitting here thinking about it and i think you are right with the different thermostats. i will post a model number over the weekend. Come to think of it when i pushed the reset switch last weekend i didnt try to push it hard at all, maybe i just need to push it a little harder, thats the first thing i will try tonight when i arrive.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:48 AM   #17
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The gas side may use 12 volts for thermostat & controls because it will work without 120ac hooked up to the RV.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:39 AM   #18
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Yes it uses 12v for the control board which controls LP gas side.
The 120V AC heater is independent and consists of a thermostat/hi-limit
cut out/fusable link in series with a rocker off on switch.
I had an element burn out once and it also blew the fusable link on the thermostat/hi limit.
I had to purchase new T-stat and heater element. I found best price for
T-stat/hi limit on Ebay and best price for heater element at Home Depot.

Others have found the rocker switch was defective/burned out/corroded and
still others have found the unit un-plugged. Yes your hot water heater is most likely plugged into a single 120v outlet found in the rear of the tank area. Check there and make sure you actually have 120 V at the outlet and that you are securely plugged in!

Unfortunately the only good way to check for voltage at the heater element is to remove the burner assembly then remove the cover and check voltage at the screws on the heater element itself.

Good luck!
Be CAREFUL!
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:47 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by bobothewizard View Post
Harbor freight is awesome, got a multimeter for like $6.
Darn, I don't know why I would bother to use a $100.00 Fluke Multimeter when Harbor Freight has them for $6.
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:57 AM   #20
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Darn, I don't know why I would bother to use a $100.00 Fluke Multimeter when Harbor Freight has them for $6.
They are "FREE" with coupon! Youroo!!
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