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Old 07-25-2016, 06:43 PM   #1
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suburban water heater

Currently own a 2012 forest river surveyor and i am having some issues with the surburban water heater, its not heating the water. Changed the heating element last week and it still didnt heat the water. Was going to change the thermostat this weekend when we go up but i have a quick question. When i changed the heating element out it was a 1440w element and i put in a 1500w heating element from lowes, is this ok to do or should i change it back to the 1440w element instead of the 1500w?
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:52 PM   #2
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That's fine but instead of changing parts get a $10 meter and see what is wrong first. Do you have power to it? Is a high limit tripped? Is the switch bad? Lots of things it could be.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddupton View Post
That's fine but instead of changing parts get a $10 meter and see what is wrong first. Do you have power to it? Is a high limit tripped? Is the switch bad? Lots of things it could be.
X2 A meter would tell if the switch is bad or if the outlet has no power or ....
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:17 AM   #4
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I will run over to harbor freight this week and grab one but i will have to watch some youtube videos because i have no idea how to use one.
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Old 07-26-2016, 06:06 AM   #5
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Just above the outside on/off switch there are two black circles ( over temp protection) about the size of a nickle. Push each one fairly hard. If either one of them clicks (you can feel it) it was tripped so try the WH again.
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:38 AM   #6
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Harbor freight is awesome, got a multimeter for like $6. So when i check the different parts, how do i know what is working and what is not? Is it based on if power is going to the piece?

For instance when i check the thermostat, if it has voltage going to it how would i know if its bad or not?

I knew i should have taken electrical engineering in college
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Old 07-28-2016, 07:54 AM   #7
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It depends on what you are attempting to check. For example, to check the heating element you want to know you have continuity, (meaning a current will flow completely through the element). If you want to check that power is getting to the element, then you are going to check for voltage. I guess I would start at the end of the line and work my way backwards. You should look on line and get schematic of the unit. Most people can figure out the flow without have to know everything about it. Start by checking the element, even though it is new. Then check to see if you have power to it. If not, check whatever the schematic shows before the element until you get to your switch.
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:44 PM   #8
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I will see if i can find one. One thing that puzzles me though is i am assuming that if the thermostat was bad the gas portion would not work either. Because we tried it with gas last weekend and that worked just not when using the electric part. Was weird to me.
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:22 PM   #9
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I don't believe the two share the same thermostat. A schematic would tell you.
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Old 07-28-2016, 03:28 PM   #10
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Actually I am looking at a schematic and it looks like the thermostat is shared. Check to see if you have voltage from the module board at element.

added

It looks to me like there is a black wire coming into the switch that should have voltage at all times, (in other words it is always hot if the power is on and you should always get a reading from it). The wire going out of the switch is also black and it should have voltage when the switch is in the on position. That wire goes to the thermostat. So, if the switch is on, you should have voltage at the thermostat. There is a black wire going out of your thermostat to your element. It should have voltage if the water in the tank is below the low limit of the thermostat.
You need to check for voltage at each of these areas one area at a time. If you do not have voltage to your switch, then nothing beyond that is going to work. If you do, follow that to the next step.
If you need help via a telephone call, send me a message and I would be happy to assist you.
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