SV235RKS rear slide preventative maintenance

[mTn_biKer65]

I've had the SV235RKS for a couple years now and a couple times a year I'll lubricate the slide track and rubber seals on the outside but I've never done anything with the ceiling tracks & rollers on the inside.

Does anyone with a SV235RKS do any preventative maintenance on the ceiling tracks and rollers on the inside? I know some have replaced the tracks so I'm hoping some preventative maintenance might keep problems from arising and keep things running smoothly.

[acadianbob]

I'm interested as well. We've replaced our tracks TWICE. I've taken to "assisting" the electric motor when extending and retracting the slide with people power while my wife pushes the motor button. The trolleys are on wheels so I'm not sure what can be done; maybe WD40 type of lube occasionally? But you don't want lube dripping on your bed.

Unfortunately, I think the slides are not the best design and are prone to having issues. It makes me nervous on an extended trip; will we get extended and then not be able to get it back in; or have to cut our trip short because of slide issues.

[schrederman]

I used some dry gear lube from NAPA on mine and it seems to work well. I used it on the very noisy electric stabilizers as well, and they are now quiet. I'm with Bob on the design not being the best. That's one thing I'll look at before buying another TT... the slide mechanism.

[MOD Guy]

I use silicon lube spray on the inside tracks once a year. Other than one upper and one lower roller issue (spindle came out and had to reinstall ), I have been lucky to not have any issue (so far, knock on wood) with the upper rollers or tracks. I have replaced the lower outside seal when it got caught in the track and chewed up, and have had to reattach a section of the outside seal that was not sticking tight in one area. We camp 9-10 times a year on average, so it has gotten a decent amount of use since we got it in 2006.

[tonyz]

I had to replace my top tracks and rollers a couple of years ago. They did a redesign on the rollers, much more stout. Sense then I put washers on the top track screws an added more to the vacant per drilled holes. Seems the factory put in a screw every other hole.

I use silicone lube on the track, rollers, bottom rollers, mech and any surfaces they roll on. I too support the slideout while one of the kids push the button. If I am on my own, I run outside about every few inches and push up on the slideout to release any chance of a bind.

I have been using it more and more in cold weather so I put 1" foam insulation with 1/4 plywood on top of that under the rear slide mattress. It made a huge difference in my warmth comfort at night. Total cost $45

[David 01]

I would always recommend using a dry lube. A product like WD40, which is awesome, also attract dust/dirt which sticks to the oil. A dry silicone does not. Clean gears are happy gears!

Happy Camping to those that can, and C'mon spring to those of us up North!

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by tonyz

I had to replace my top tracks and rollers a couple of years ago. They did a redesign on the rollers, much more stout. Sense then I put washers on the top track screws an added more to the vacant per drilled holes. Seems the factory put in a screw every other hole.

I use silicone lube on the track, rollers, bottom rollers, mech and any surfaces they roll on. I too support the slideout while one of the kids push the button. If I am on my own, I run outside about every few inches and push up on the slideout to release any chance of a bind.

Old thread, I know. . .

Tony,
Can you provide a picture of what your track/rollers look like? I am trying to figure out if I have the old or new design?

I have an idea that the open end of the track(towards the front of the trailer) is too weak. I can only find parts that are capable of hanging 100lbs per hanger. It looks like those parts are about $35 per side. Johnson Hardware® Sliding Door Hardware

My track appears to have begun to separate on the open side(bottom). In other words the gap at the ceiling left to right is less than the gap between the sides at the bottom of the track. The trolley rides the track poorly for the first foot while it starts to extend. Past that distance it is fine and the track doesn't appear to be expanded as near as the second screw.

This led to my thought of adding a screw and 3 nuts to keep the gap the same at top and bottom. My bad drawing:


I am wondering if this will help?

I intend to add a fitted and stained wood plug/stop/cap to the end of the track for appearance after I install the screw.

[madmaxmutt]

From everything I can find, the hardware FR used for this slide is intended for closet doors. As I suspected, the manufacturers recommend a pretty low weight rating for the parts.


Mine started looking like this with a (way to) big gap between the ceiling and the support rail.

Before


Phase 1 for me was adding some fender washers to sure up the screw holes. That certainly improved the gap.

After


But you can still see that the bottom of the rail is still bent down in the picture. And this picture shows where the left wheel was rubbing badly inside the track.
Here is a closeup.



Phase 2 will be the screw and nuts to keep the horizontal gap from spreading at the open (front) end. The current gap (left rail) ranges from .677" near the rear wall of the trailer to .814" at the open (front) end of the rail. The right rail is not as bad, but still more than a tenth of an inch. The right trolley seems to be able to roll the length of the rail fine. The left trolley does fine at the rear of the trailer, but when it is in for travel if almost jumps off the track and actually twists the track toward the outside wall. It is hard to get a picture that shows it, but you can see the taper here by comparing the washer positions.


I did also notice that both of my trolleys are sitting exactly the same in that the trolley left sides have the single wheel and the right sides have the double wheels. That seems odd to me. I would have thought they would be mirror images of each other. Can anyone else verify if yours are that way, please?

[madmaxmutt]

Well, today I took off the left side trolley. I verified that they are Johnson USA parts rated at 200lbs (link in previous post).


I also see the Johnson sells a trolley stop. It appears that stop would hold the track (open) end together, as that is how/where it clamps on to the track.
http://jhusa.net/images/bulkparts/bp...155400x400.jpg

That image also gives me an idea of what the gap should be.

So, rethinking my plan. I will order one (maybe two depending on shipping) replacement tracks. It appears I may have to paint them. I believe the trolleys are fine, but for $13 each I may order two of those also. I will definitely order two of the trolley stops. I hope those will help a little bit with the track's structural integrity where the trolley hangs.

[mTn_biKer65]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

Mine started looking like this with a (way to) big gap between the ceiling and the support rail.

Before

Phase 1 for me was adding some fender washers to sure up the screw holes. That certainly improved the gap.

I'd like to add some fender washers to my tracks as there's a small gap on both tracks near the ends when the bed is in. Did you find there was lots of grip left to tighten things up with the washer?

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

I did also notice that both of my trolleys are sitting exactly the same in that the trolley left sides have the single wheel and the right sides have the double wheels. That seems odd to me. I would have thought they would be mirror images of each other. Can anyone else verify if yours are that way, please?

Hmmmm when was your production date? looking from the front to the rear mine has double wheels on the left and single on the right.... both tracks.

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by mTn_biKer65

I'd like to add some fender washers to my tracks as there's a small gap on both tracks near the ends when the bed is in. Did you find there was lots of grip left to tighten things up with the washer?



Hmmmm when was your production date? looking from the front to the rear mine has double wheels on the left and single on the right.... both tracks.

I would say there is a good amount of grip on most of the screws, but the last one seems less solid. I think I am going to change that screw to a #10 (from the installed #8s) and add one just behind trolley at it's furthest point in. HD did not have the #2 square screw heads, so I just bought some of the phillips self tapping screws that are otherwise identical minus dab of white paint.

I was also planning to poke one of the holes with a paperclip or something metal to see if it is going into metal or wood behind that ceiling panel.

I think you are right to do the washers as soon as possible. I might have waited too long and that is why I will likely buy new rails. I used 2 of the small packs of 1/4" x 1" fender washers from HD. That was enough to do all the screws I can reach when the slide is out. Those washers are thin enough for the wheels to roll under.

Production date, hmmm? I cannot say I know that, but mine is a 2011 model year. I will have to check the sticker for the date, but not in this lightning storm

I still think the way the trolleys were is weird and that goes double if yours are the opposite way. In my mind at least, they two trolleys should be mirror images of each other. I don't see any particular reason for any directional necessity with the trolley or track so there may be no engineering reason at all. Just weird looking I guess.

[mTn_biKer65]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

I also see the Johnson sells a trolley stop. It appears that stop would hold the track (open) end together, as that is how/where it clamps on to the track.
http://jhusa.net/images/bulkparts/bp...155400x400.jpg

That image also gives me an idea of what the gap should be.

I will definitely order two of the trolley stops. I hope those will help a little bit with the track's structural integrity where the trolley hangs.

I like the idea of the trolley stops. Although my track ends are square now I think once I secure up the tracks with larger screws and washers the tracks may start to stress a bit where they can't flex like they do now.

The wheels on my tracks actually come out past the end about a 1/3 of a wheel so I'm not sure the trolley stops would work in my case.

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

I would say there is a good amount of grip on most of the screws, but the last one seems less solid. I think I am going to change that screw to a #10 (from the installed #8s) and add one just behind trolley at it's furthest point in. HD did not have the #2 square screw heads, so I just bought some of the phillips self tapping screws that are otherwise identical minus dab of white paint.

I was also planning to poke one of the holes with a paperclip or something metal to see if it is going into metal or wood behind that ceiling panel.

I think you are right to do the washers as soon as possible. I might have waited too long and that is why I will likely buy new rails. I used 2 of the small packs of 1/4" x 1" fender washers from HD. That was enough to do all the screws I can reach when the slide is out. Those washers are thin enough for the wheels to roll under.

I'm going to pick-up the washers and a couple #10 screws for the track ends tomorrow. I pulled one of the track screws already to confirm the length I need. Looks like 1 1/4" length below the screw head.

[madmaxmutt]

Here is a shot with the two #10 screws installed. I put the second one, just behind where the trolley stops when fully retracted.



This is with the slide in.


I can see now (hindsight) that I should have clamped the track where I wanted it before I drilled the horizontal hole. You can see the screw isn't quite horizontal once it trued up the track some. Now for some type of cap/cover. . .


PS I swapped the wheel positions (180 degrees) when I had the trolley off so the both sides now have the two wheels towards their respective outside wall.

[mTn_biKer65]

Thanks for the pics. That definitely confirms one thing for me and that's my tracks are shorter. When the slide is in my wheels peek out about 1/3 of an inch past the ends. No room for a cross bolt or stopper.

FYI Mine's a 2013 and the tracks look exactly the same as yours. Not sure when they become beefier or maybe it's just the replacement tracks or maybe ours are the beefier ones.

I installed the washers and #10 screws today. I ended up downgrading the washer to a 3/8". I went with the better fit on the screw over the size so hopefully they're still OK. I took a good look at my existing screws and I'm pretty sure they were #10s already except for one of the first screws which was a self tapping #8. My first screws were about 6" in from the end and as it turns out one of them didn't have any bite left from all the flexing it was doing. I used that self tapping #8 to start a new hole on both sides about 2" in from the end. Lots of grip there. Nice to know there's wood all the way along the track in case more screws are needed down the road.

Mom wants the bed left out for now so we'll see in a few days how everything works.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[madmaxmutt]

I was at CW this morning. It appears Keystone has copied the exact setup inside as our trailer has.

It might be FR that copied them, but I don't recall the earlier Outbacks having these rails.

One big difference though, is that Keystone put an outside slide system on their trailer that has 4 cable supports when the slide is out. They now have several models with king bed rear slides, where in the past I believe they were queen beds. This (230TRS) trailer had almost 0 wasted space. Everything that FR would have covered with a panel is either a cabinet, drawer or cubby.


Nice cabinets on both sides of the bed, too. . .

[madmaxmutt]

Cleaned out the rear storage area today and found what looked like a sealed bearing case without sides or the all important bearings. My kid crawled in and snapped some pictures. This doesn't look good. . .




Anyone know who manufactures the slide mechanism in the 2011 235RKS?

[madmaxmutt]

Here are the parts I found on the floor of the compartment.


It looks like my local shop parts catalog has the part. I will have to check the measurements, though.

[madmaxmutt]

Delivered today! Installation to come.

[madmaxmutt]

Can someone post a picture of the outside top of their rear slide, please? Mine has some tape that I am trying to figure out if F/R did it this way, or if it was a repair job (as it appears).

Thanks!

[mTn_biKer65]

Going camping tomorrow so I'll grab a pic once it's setup if someone doesn't beat me to it.