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Old 11-04-2010, 11:52 AM   #1
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sv264 windows

I have a 2007 surveyor sv264 the dealer told me that the windows have some kind of special seal that is used in the manufacturing, and you never have to caulk it. Does anybody know what he was talking about? I also paid to have the roof done and one week later we had a rain , the sky light was pouring in rain I went up on the roof and to my surprise I found no dicor or anything else sealing it. So this guy might not be to reliable.
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:13 PM   #2
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Kinda early to have the roof redone! What was the issue with it?
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Old 11-04-2010, 04:19 PM   #3
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I just bought it and wanted to make sure the dicor was not cracking. On my kodiaks I would check and calk every year and never had a leak. the dicor on the surveyor was all cracked and the roof was very dirty, it looked like somone removed the dicor fron the skylight. I did not mean the roof was replaced just calking.
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Old 11-04-2010, 05:02 PM   #4
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We have an 06 SV 264 that we bought earlier this summer. Had a problem with leaking around the vent fan in the bath. It was heavily caulked with layers of lap sealant. After trying to find the leak spot and spot caulk, I gave up and just recaulked the whole thing last weekend. It's raining now and so far no leak.

I was thinking of putting a Maxx Air vent cover on for added protection and the ability to run the fan in the rain. However the sealant is so built up that the mounting brackets would have to be bent to be seated on the roof so the bolts can hold the cover on. The only other way is to cut the caulk down to the base where the brackets would go and then recaulk over the brackets. Any thoughts on the best way to go here?

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/r...-roof-vent.htm

As far as the windows go, we've had no problems. I would like to replace the emergency window with a combination emergency and screen window. The manufacturer name is supposed to be on the glass, but I couldn't find it after much searching around.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:02 PM   #5
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I would love to do the same thing with our emegency window, with the second door right there why not. you can cut down the calk and use eturnabond tape that will give you the room for your vent covers and if done right you will never need to seal it again.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by photodog View Post
I would love to do the same thing with our emegency window, with the second door right there why not. you can cut down the calk and use eturnabond tape that will give you the room for your vent covers and if done right you will never need to seal it again.
In lieu of the Eturnabond wouldn't a bunch of lap sealant work as well?
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:04 AM   #7
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That special seal around the windows, etc. is butyl rubber tape. While it doesn't require caulking in the traditional sense, it requires inspection and replacement if found leaking.
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:09 AM   #8
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I was talking about clearence for the vent cover brackets, a mountain of lap sealent may be a problem. even a pile of sealent will dry up and crack in a couple of years. I had eturnabond tape on my last trailer and never had a leak. over 30 manufactures are using eturnabond now its great stuff if used right.
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:12 AM   #9
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Thats kinda what I was thinking, i'm going to use some proflex around the windows just for insurence. Thanks
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Old 11-05-2010, 10:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmg View Post
Had a problem with leaking around the vent fan in the bath. It was heavily caulked with layers of lap sealant.
Sometimes too much caulk improperly applied causes leaks. When bought my used Trailmanor, the couple that sold it to me told me they had re-caulked the roof vent, and it still leaked some. It was a mess. I tore all of the old caulk off, put a resonable amount down around the edges, and didn't have a problem after that.
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:05 PM   #11
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I was thinking of putting a Maxx Air vent cover on for added protection and the ability to run the fan in the rain. However the sealant is so built up that the mounting brackets would have to be bent to be seated on the roof so the bolts can hold the cover on. The only other way is to cut the caulk down to the base where the brackets would go and then recaulk over the brackets. Any thoughts on the best way to go here?
You should not just caulk over the old caulk. Correct way is to remove as much of the old caulk as possible and recaulk using the apropriate amount. As was mentioned above, often times too much caulk can cause a leak as much as it can help prevent one. Also make sure any EPDM gasket materials are in good shape (replace as needed). Finally make sure to use the highest quality silicone caulk for maximum adhesion and clean the area thoroughly prior to caulking.
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:26 PM   #12
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Finally make sure to use the highest quality silicone caulk for maximum adhesion and clean the area thoroughly prior to caulking.
If you think you might ever want to apply Eternabond tape, keep in mind that it will NOT stick to anything with silicone in it. Even cleaning with a silicone-based cleaner can leave enough silicone residue so that Eternabond won't stick.
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:20 PM   #13
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Question

After checking the Fan Tastic site they don't recommend installing a vent cover. The Maxx Air cover and other comparable brands only have a height of 9 1/2" so the fan cover can't open all the way.

We tend to use the fan quite a bit on days when we don't run the AC. When it rains it would be nice to have the cover. In spite of what Fan Tastic says what's the consensus on installing or not installing the cover?
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:55 PM   #14
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After checking the Fan Tastic site they don't recommend installing a vent cover. The Maxx Air cover and other comparable brands only have a height of 9 1/2" so the fan cover can't open all the way.

We tend to use the fan quite a bit on days when we don't run the AC. When it rains it would be nice to have the cover. In spite of what Fan Tastic says what's the consensus on installing or not installing the cover?
I installed a MaxxAir 2 cover. It's bigger than the regular MaxxAir. Seems big enough for me, even on the fan's highest setting. It's true that the vent doesn't open quite as high as it would without the MaxxAir.
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:24 PM   #15
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You should not just caulk over the old caulk. Correct way is to remove as much of the old caulk as possible and recaulk using the apropriate amount. As was mentioned above, often times too much caulk can cause a leak as much as it can help prevent one. Also make sure any EPDM gasket materials are in good shape (replace as needed). Finally make sure to use the highest quality silicone caulk for maximum adhesion and clean the area thoroughly prior to caulking.
Never use silicone on your roof.
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:27 PM   #16
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If you think you might ever want to apply Eternabond tape, keep in mind that it will NOT stick to anything with silicone in it. Even cleaning with a silicone-based cleaner can leave enough silicone residue so that Eternabond won't stick.
I've used it on my last to trailers never a problem, first one i used eturnaclean, second one i used asitone on a grag ( I put over 30,000 miles in that trailer) as i stated before it needs to be done correctly.
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