There is no single figure that will determine tow-worthiness. I'd read Trailer Towing Guides | Trailer Life Magazine
for a thorough introduction to the subject.
For picking a trailer, always start with the yellow label on the trailer, then add at least 1000lbs to that. The SP189 I got had a rather large gap between dry weight and sticker weight (because all the mandatory extras are not in the dry weight) Do your own math based on fresh and waste water capacity. Leave a safety limit.
Next, do the math for gross vehicle weight as per the guide. You absolutely want to stay below these limits.
Then there's things that make your life better or easier. A stronger TV will help maintain speed on grades. But, you need to make the call how you want to use it and how fast you want to go. The 250 horses in my 1999 F150 are laboring hard uphill, but it does the trick. The 4-speed auto doesn't have a lot of gears to pick from. Newer trucks have more power and more gears to keep noise down.
I'd definitely get a tow vehicle with a two package standard - including wiring, alternator and oil cooler. You're going to run at a higher power output setting than most people do.
We see people with all sorts of TVs. Some have F250 diesels. Some have an Xterra. Some have a Highlander, a car-like SUV. They all made it there.