unable to open tailgate!

[fella10]

Jack-E-Up will solve your problem(links below)...... you can even use it with an electric jack, but will probably need to disconnect with a cord,... we have it on our Micro Lite 25KS and are very satisfied with how it works........give it a look, you may agree.....

Jack-E-Up Removable Jack Bracket, Black - Jack-e-up Llc 5048 - Tongue Jacks - Camping World

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dD1M-t2eqxM

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by RETCHIEF

I have the same problem and No you can't. The geniuses that designed the mount did not use a 120 degree pattern. Two will line up, but the third is off by about a quarter of an inch. I took the jack head apart and found no way to rotate the motor. Oh well, life goes on.

Take it to a welding shop and have the mount rotated.

[Wobbles]

Originally Posted by RETCHIEF

I have the same problem and No you can't. The geniuses that designed the mount did not use a 120 degree pattern. Two will line up, but the third is off by about a quarter of an inch. I took the jack head apart and found no way to rotate the motor. Oh well, life goes on.

Tried and true. How are you Stu?

[Major Oz]

Originally Posted by milvet33

I won't get into a discussion with you guys. I'm an animal lover and I would never place an animal in a place that they could get hurt, i.e the bed of a pickup. You don't put dogs back there for the same reason you don't let children ride back there, or do you?

Unlike some.....I differentiate between humans and animals.

[aufinger]

When I replaced my hand-crank tongue jack with a Husky HB4500, I rotated it 120 degrees which allowed my Tundra's tailgate to fully lower with 1 to 1-1/2" clearance. Like mentioned earlier, I had to drill a new hole in the frame to align the third hole. The stock tongue jack matched up the three holes in the frame because two of the holes in the jack were elongated. What I found to be odd is that FR did not place nuts on the bolts that held the jack in place. The holes in the frame were tapped and the bolts were only screwed into the frame. It would not have taken very much effort to place a nut on each of the three bolts. Of course I had to use a nut for the hole I drilled but I also added lock nuts to the other two bolts as well.

[Cadiz Couple]

I had the same problem with my Casita and Tundra. A quick and easy fix is to buy a 2 X 2 X 8 inch extension that fits between your truck receiver and the piece that your ball is mounted on. Both ends will pin....this lets your trailer ride far enough back so that you can lower your tailgate and it didn't adversly affect my towing. You can find the extensions on the net and in trailer stores. Gordy

[firsthere]

Originally Posted by Cadiz Couple

I had the same problem with my Casita and Tundra. A quick and easy fix is to buy a 2 X 2 X 8 inch extension that fits between your truck receiver and the piece that your ball is mounted on. Both ends will pin....this lets your trailer ride far enough back so that you can lower your tailgate and it didn't adversly affect my towing. You can find the extensions on the net and in trailer stores. Gordy

That is the same result with the Ez-lift Elite WDH, it has a 10" long draw bar. After looking at it I wondered how much more leverage there is on the hitch and frame mounts without the spring bars installed. Our long gravel driveway has a few 3' high rolling dips for drainage so we don't connect the bars until on the flat paved road.

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by uhduh camping

I rode in the back of trucks for years as a kid. No seat belts either just saying!

Any ways get a Hensley, that will give you plenty of space for the tailgate. It will tow better for Fido too.

One of the side benefits of our ProPride 3P!

[Major Oz]

Originally Posted by firsthere

...... I wondered how much more leverage there is on the hitch and frame mounts without the spring bars installed.

Me too.

Does anyone know if there have been studies relating to the various forces (good or bad) resulting from simply adding a 10-12 in extension bar......while STILL using the same weight distribution system -- spring bars, etc ?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Major Oz

Me too.

Does anyone know if there have been studies relating to the various forces (good or bad) resulting from simply adding a 10-12 in extension bar......while STILL using the same weight distribution system -- spring bars, etc ?

I believe that could be solved as a lever problem?

[k5rcd]

Originally Posted by fella10

Jack-E-Up will solve your problem(links below)...... you can even use it with an electric jack, but will probably need to disconnect with a cord,... we have it on our Micro Lite 25KS and are very satisfied with how it works........give it a look, you may agree.....

Jack-E-Up Removable Jack Bracket, Black - Jack-e-up Llc 5048 - Tongue Jacks - Camping World

Yep.
The Jack E Up solved the problem for me. My electric Lippert jack wouldn't let my tailgate open. Quick, easy installation and reasonable cost. Ordered mine direct from the manufacturer so I got the correct one.

Now my dog, DW, and I are happy.

[tinkerreknit]

With my last tow vehicle/trailer combo, I just removed the tailgate altogether when camping with my dog. I had a homemade, weatherproofed kennel secured right at the rear of the bed. It worked great for getting him out for breaks during a trip. At first I placed a 2x6 across the rear in the vertical slot (Ford).

[beagle rc air]

Originally Posted by milvet33

Folks who carry dogs in the bed of a pickup should not have dogs!

Kind of harsh without knowing the circumstances! We have regular cab short bed that we used as a toad behind out MH. It has canvas soft top that keeps dog out of the weather and doghouse to keep her warm. A solid divider keeps things from crashing around. She has water, security and is warm. So what is the beef?

beagle

[beagle rc air]

Originally Posted by k5rcd

Yep.
The Jack E Up solved the problem for me. My electric Lippert jack wouldn't let my tailgate open. Quick, easy installation and reasonable cost. Ordered mine direct from the manufacturer so I got the correct one.

Now my dog, DW, and I are happy.

"Now my dog, DW and I are happy"
I had a channel iron cross member fabricated and made some 1/2" u-bolts to clamp it to the frame behind the propane tanks. It works very well and it gives just enough clearance for the tailgate to drop down without hitting the tank cover. Except for the fact that the light on the electric jack no longer shines on the hitch, it is a perfect setup.
We have an URB-e for my wife's disability scooter and it makes it easy to get it in and out. Yes the URB-e is secured and no danger to our dog.

beagle

[twags]

Originally Posted by beagle rc air

With our 240 Surveyor Sport hooked to our 1500 Ram P/U we are unable to open the tailgate even close to halfway. Our dog rides in the back of the truck and we like for her to be able to get out at each stop. It would necessitate disconnecting the ball hitch, chains and wiring and pulling ahead several feet to accomplish this.
I am going to move the electric jack that is mounted ahead of the propane tanks.. A piece of channel iron across the frame behind the tanks is going to be the new location for the jack mount. Lite won't be any use but I never needed it anyhow.
If there is any interest I will post some pictures.

beagle

I have a item for Jack-E-Up, the company is in Oregon, Camping World has them, I have one on my 23ft Wildwood travel travel towing with 2014 F150, you can lower the tailgate easily to install about 30 minutes

[Cadiz Couple]

Thanks for all of the nice responces. I'm pretty sure that the one that will work for me is to rotate the jack 120 degrees (the three bolts in the base should still fit the holes). This way the front-most barrel of the jack (which is the part that blocks the tailgate) should be to one side,, out of the way of the tailgate.