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Old 11-07-2016, 05:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by AGFazio View Post
Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.
He was talking about a water heater not the furnace your furnace doesn't have an anode rod
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:47 PM   #22
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He was talking about a water heater not the furnace your furnace doesn't have an anode rod
dicky1234, go back and re-read the OP. In addition to talking about his WH and anode, the OP mentions "leaving the heat set at 45*" so they are talking about leaving the furnace on and set to 45 degrees F.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:30 PM   #23
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Yup,drain it and put antifreeze in the traps. I only use heat if it is going to get below freezing for a few days.Then only a little bit of heat.
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:49 PM   #24
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You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.

I suspect the crud in the bottom is mostly the anode that has flaked off.

Interestingly, my previous unit had an Atwood HWH and NO ANODE at all. I think the Atwood has a stainless tank, the Suburban is mild steel.

Wonder if I can refit an Atwood??

I wanted also to make note that my residential HWH is also electric (220 / 1) but it has self cleaning elements, I wonder if you can get those elements in 110/1. Would be nice.
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Old 11-08-2016, 01:29 AM   #25
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Wait What? you guys in NC actually heat your rigs all winter? I never heard of that before, being in the cold snowy Northeast! LOL! Cost us more than the camper is worth heating it all winter up here!
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Old 11-08-2016, 05:58 AM   #26
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I suspect the crud in the bottom is mostly the anode that has flaked off.

Interestingly, my previous unit had an Atwood HWH and NO ANODE at all. I think the Atwood has a stainless tank, the Suburban is mild steel.

Wonder if I can refit an Atwood??

I wanted also to make note that my residential HWH is also electric (220 / 1) but it has self cleaning elements, I wonder if you can get those elements in 110/1. Would be nice.
The Atwood tank is Aluminum,the Suburban is Porclean covered Steel! My home W/H "A/O Smith " has a 4' long Anode rod! Youroo! !
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:47 AM   #27
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The same crud you find in your RV WH you will find in your residential WH, especially if you have a softener. It comes out as white goo. If you don't routinely flush it it will build up on the bottom and eventually cause the bottom to blow due to overheating - if its a gas unit.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:08 AM   #28
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It's not so much as "heating" the trailer . . . as keeping it from freezing inside. Yep the winter weather here in D'erm is pretty benign. . . compared to my former Up North Michigan life. Still...If I can keep the interior about 50* (love the winter sun here), I think it's probably better for all the plastic and paper that the trailer is made of. I drained the lines based on having a 34' class a on the mississippi gulf coast and yep, the water lines froze! Snap, pop and leak! Lesson learned
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:23 AM   #29
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My unit sleeps in a heated building all winter... Ni issue, it's warm..always.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:13 AM   #30
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I wish I had inside storage...and with heat? That would be . . . ideal.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:30 AM   #31
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I wish I had inside storage...and with heat? That would be . . . ideal.
My unit , my truck and all the farm tractors stay in a heated farm shop. It's not 70 but I keep it about 55.

I like inside storage anyway. Keeps everything out of the weather so no roof or seal issues. My unit only comes out when I use it.

Beside, if I have a tiff with the wife (hopefully never), I have accomodations....
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:49 AM   #32
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You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.

cleaning out my water heater this way -does anyone know if it will have the same effectiveness if I let the water cool down before taking out the anode rod and letting the vinegar come out (or do I need to drain the tank while the water is still hot)? Cincia
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:56 AM   #33
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cleaning out my water heater this way -does anyone know if it will have the same effectiveness if I let the water cool down before taking out the anode rod and letting the vinegar come out (or do I need to drain the tank while the water is still hot)? Cincia
You could let it cool down. No difference.
The decalcification process is done when hot. Once done, draining doesn't matter if it is hot or cold.
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #34
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In NC we are subject to emergency camping trips. A warm weekend could hit in January and we need to bug out!
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Old 11-08-2016, 06:54 PM   #35
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Just wondering why if you drained your tank and lines why you would heat your RV in the winter. I drain and then blow out lines with air compressor and put some RV antifreeze in the traps good for the winter

No water in system!!!!! Why heat RV????????????????????
I use -50 windshield washer fluid in "p" traps....
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:47 AM   #36
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Just now getting back to visit this site. I think I mentioned that I (try to ) keep the interior temp somewhat stable. . . all that plastic, glue, paper etc that it's made of probably doesn't take well to big temp swings.
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