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11-07-2016, 05:04 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: SD
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGFazio
Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.
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He was talking about a water heater not the furnace your furnace doesn't have an anode rod
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11-07-2016, 05:47 PM
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#22
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Canadian Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dicky1243
He was talking about a water heater not the furnace your furnace doesn't have an anode rod
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dicky1234, go back and re-read the OP. In addition to talking about his WH and anode, the OP mentions "leaving the heat set at 45*" so they are talking about leaving the furnace on and set to 45 degrees F.
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2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
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11-07-2016, 09:30 PM
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#23
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 83
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Yup,drain it and put antifreeze in the traps. I only use heat if it is going to get below freezing for a few days.Then only a little bit of heat.
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11-07-2016, 09:49 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itat
You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.
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I suspect the crud in the bottom is mostly the anode that has flaked off.
Interestingly, my previous unit had an Atwood HWH and NO ANODE at all. I think the Atwood has a stainless tank, the Suburban is mild steel.
Wonder if I can refit an Atwood??
I wanted also to make note that my residential HWH is also electric (220 / 1) but it has self cleaning elements, I wonder if you can get those elements in 110/1. Would be nice.
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11-08-2016, 01:29 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 133
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Wait What? you guys in NC actually heat your rigs all winter? I never heard of that before, being in the cold snowy Northeast! LOL! Cost us more than the camper is worth heating it all winter up here!
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11-08-2016, 05:58 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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H
Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip
I suspect the crud in the bottom is mostly the anode that has flaked off.
Interestingly, my previous unit had an Atwood HWH and NO ANODE at all. I think the Atwood has a stainless tank, the Suburban is mild steel.
Wonder if I can refit an Atwood??
I wanted also to make note that my residential HWH is also electric (220 / 1) but it has self cleaning elements, I wonder if you can get those elements in 110/1. Would be nice.
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The Atwood tank is Aluminum,the Suburban is Porclean covered Steel! My home W/H "A/O Smith " has a 4' long Anode rod! Youroo! !
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11-08-2016, 06:47 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 336
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The same crud you find in your RV WH you will find in your residential WH, especially if you have a softener. It comes out as white goo. If you don't routinely flush it it will build up on the bottom and eventually cause the bottom to blow due to overheating - if its a gas unit.
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11-08-2016, 09:08 AM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: D'erm NC
Posts: 87
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It's not so much as "heating" the trailer . . . as keeping it from freezing inside. Yep the winter weather here in D'erm is pretty benign. . . compared to my former Up North Michigan life. Still...If I can keep the interior about 50* (love the winter sun here), I think it's probably better for all the plastic and paper that the trailer is made of. I drained the lines based on having a 34' class a on the mississippi gulf coast and yep, the water lines froze! Snap, pop and leak! Lesson learned
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Retired U.S. Coast Guard Mustang
Presently a librarian @ Duke
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11-08-2016, 09:23 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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My unit sleeps in a heated building all winter... Ni issue, it's warm..always.
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11-08-2016, 11:13 AM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: D'erm NC
Posts: 87
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I wish I had inside storage...and with heat? That would be . . . ideal.
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Retired U.S. Coast Guard Mustang
Presently a librarian @ Duke
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11-08-2016, 11:30 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016251RKS
I wish I had inside storage...and with heat? That would be . . . ideal.
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My unit , my truck and all the farm tractors stay in a heated farm shop. It's not 70 but I keep it about 55.
I like inside storage anyway. Keeps everything out of the weather so no roof or seal issues. My unit only comes out when I use it.
Beside, if I have a tiff with the wife (hopefully never), I have accomodations....
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11-08-2016, 11:49 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itat
You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.
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cleaning out my water heater this way -does anyone know if it will have the same effectiveness if I let the water cool down before taking out the anode rod and letting the vinegar come out (or do I need to drain the tank while the water is still hot)? Cincia
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11-08-2016, 11:56 AM
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#33
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cincia
cleaning out my water heater this way -does anyone know if it will have the same effectiveness if I let the water cool down before taking out the anode rod and letting the vinegar come out (or do I need to drain the tank while the water is still hot)? Cincia
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You could let it cool down. No difference.
The decalcification process is done when hot. Once done, draining doesn't matter if it is hot or cold.
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11-08-2016, 04:06 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: NC
Posts: 477
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In NC we are subject to emergency camping trips. A warm weekend could hit in January and we need to bug out!
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11-08-2016, 06:54 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Halifax Nova Scotia Canada
Posts: 833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwreefs
Just wondering why if you drained your tank and lines why you would heat your RV in the winter. I drain and then blow out lines with air compressor and put some RV antifreeze in the traps good for the winter
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No water in system!!!!! Why heat RV????????????????????
I use -50 windshield washer fluid in "p" traps....
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11-30-2016, 11:47 AM
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#36
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: D'erm NC
Posts: 87
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Just now getting back to visit this site. I think I mentioned that I (try to ) keep the interior temp somewhat stable. . . all that plastic, glue, paper etc that it's made of probably doesn't take well to big temp swings.
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