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11-07-2016, 09:05 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: D'erm NC
Posts: 87
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Water Heater Drain / Anode Rod
Bought a 1 1/16 6pt socket to remove the water heater drain plug. Undid the plus, tank was empty (?) - I had drained all the low points and holding tanks, and left faucets open.
Anode rod showed lots of pitting and doing its job. Flushed the tank with hose and plenty of debris came out. Wiped rod down, put fresh teflon tape on threads and reinstalled drain plug / rod.
Leaving the heat set at 45* (hooked up to spare 45# lp bottle). I think I'm prepped for the NC winter....
21 days used this season. . . about $1k a night (!)
__________________
Retired U.S. Coast Guard Mustang
Presently a librarian @ Duke
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11-07-2016, 09:12 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: NEW JERSEY
Posts: 86
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Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.
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11-07-2016, 09:22 AM
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#3
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,051
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Just something to consider...
From your comments, you seemed surprised the water heater was empty after removing the anode/plug but having opened the low point drains and opening a faucet.
Yes, that will drain most of the water from the water heater.
UNFORTUNATELY... it also drains most of the crap that was in the water heater, into the plumbing on its way to the low point drains. While some of it finds its way out the low point drains, some of it gets trapped in the plumbing. Next time you pressurize your system, you may find a bunch of crap trapped in your faucet screens or in the mixing valves themselves.
I always close my bypass valves on the water heater BEFORE opening the low point drains and faucets. That way when I remove the anode plug to drain and flush the water heater, ALL the crud runs out the plug hole.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=64
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11-07-2016, 09:22 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGFazio
Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.
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You can't just put the furnace fan on low without a by-pass switch installed. He still will need heat in the basement and should have a duct down there..
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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11-07-2016, 09:23 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: D'erm NC
Posts: 87
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I'm using a small rotating / fan heater and a regular fan to keep the air circulating. Have the lp furnace set to fire when the temp drops....I want to use the furnace because, I think, that there is some heating transferred to the (covered) underbelly area - and that the heat ducts run near the pipes (at least under the shower). While drained, I'm trying to avoid any issues. I put a cup + of rv antifreeze down each drain as well.
__________________
Retired U.S. Coast Guard Mustang
Presently a librarian @ Duke
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11-07-2016, 10:04 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016251RKS
I'm using a small rotating / fan heater and a regular fan to keep the air circulating. Have the lp furnace set to fire when the temp drops....I want to use the furnace because, I think, that there is some heating transferred to the (covered) underbelly area - and that the heat ducts run near the pipes (at least under the shower). While drained, I'm trying to avoid any issues. I put a cup + of rv antifreeze down each drain as well.
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That is pretty much what I do 70 miles north of you . I just plug a space heater in the basement and one in the trailer. Turn on the tank heaters on and let it go, no problem yet. I do insulate my outdoor shower door...
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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11-07-2016, 01:18 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Full timer,,,at Lake Georgetown in central Texas for the winter.
Posts: 442
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I have the PERFECT solution, folks,,,,,,,full time!!!!
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11-07-2016, 01:40 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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11-07-2016, 01:46 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 66
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I used one of the oil filled radiator style heaters while living in my 284BH. It really does a good job keeping the inside warm. I have the arctic package so the lower side of the camper is insulated.
__________________
2013 Cherokee 284BH
2017 RAM 3500HD Laramie, Mega Cab, 4X4
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11-07-2016, 02:10 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 30
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Just wondering why if you drained your tank and lines why you would heat your RV in the winter. I drain and then blow out lines with air compressor and put some RV antifreeze in the traps good for the winter
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11-07-2016, 02:28 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Watauga, Texas
Posts: 697
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You mentioned no debris in the water heater tank. While they sell the wash out wands for RV water heater tanks I found an easy way to clear all the debris out. Just forget to relieve the pressure on the tank and proceed to unscrew the element...pretty sure ALL the debris from the tank was on my shirt, my sleeves, my face, and the side of the RV next to mine. Clean as a whistle! And the RV next to me got the side all washed and cleaned while I was getting the debris off. LOL!
__________________
D_B Travelers - 39 nights in 2018, 58 nights in 2017. [U]1st love: 2014 TT WJ3001w, now 2016 40' FW SOB, 2015 GMC 3500HD CC DRW Duramax, TST 507rv TPMS.
"Happiness? A good meal, a good cigar and a good woman - or a bad woman; it depends on how much happiness you can handle."
George Burns (1896 – 1996)
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11-07-2016, 02:33 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Full timer,,,at Lake Georgetown in central Texas for the winter.
Posts: 442
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You mean that I'm not the only brain farter on this thread? I've opened mine also with the pressure still on.
.
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11-07-2016, 02:36 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Watauga, Texas
Posts: 697
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Good to know Grampa Jim! Us Rocket scientists have to stick together! I took a flashlight and looked into the tank after my "cleaning" and found it really was very clean. No need to buy that expensive $8 wand thingie! AND it has given my DW another story to tell when we camp. So far no one else has admitted doing this except you and I.
__________________
D_B Travelers - 39 nights in 2018, 58 nights in 2017. [U]1st love: 2014 TT WJ3001w, now 2016 40' FW SOB, 2015 GMC 3500HD CC DRW Duramax, TST 507rv TPMS.
"Happiness? A good meal, a good cigar and a good woman - or a bad woman; it depends on how much happiness you can handle."
George Burns (1896 – 1996)
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11-07-2016, 02:50 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Full timer,,,at Lake Georgetown in central Texas for the winter.
Posts: 442
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11-07-2016, 03:26 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_B Travelers
You mentioned no debris in the water heater tank. While they sell the wash out wands for RV water heater tanks I found an easy way to clear all the debris out. Just forget to relieve the pressure on the tank and proceed to unscrew the element...pretty sure ALL the debris from the tank was on my shirt, my sleeves, my face, and the side of the RV next to mine. Clean as a whistle! And the RV next to me got the side all washed and cleaned while I was getting the debris off. LOL!
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LOL I did this too being a winterizing newbie this year. Watched all the videos, thought I had it all figured out, but forgot to turn off the pump before I pulled the anode.
__________________
2019 Silverado 1500
No camper, currently
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11-07-2016, 03:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Watauga, Texas
Posts: 697
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Yup! And while I found the method a bit messy, the tank is really clean!
__________________
D_B Travelers - 39 nights in 2018, 58 nights in 2017. [U]1st love: 2014 TT WJ3001w, now 2016 40' FW SOB, 2015 GMC 3500HD CC DRW Duramax, TST 507rv TPMS.
"Happiness? A good meal, a good cigar and a good woman - or a bad woman; it depends on how much happiness you can handle."
George Burns (1896 – 1996)
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11-07-2016, 03:57 PM
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#17
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_B Travelers
{clip}I took a flashlight and looked into the tank after my "cleaning" and found it really was very clean. No need to buy that expensive $8 wand thingie! {clip}
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Something to consider...
I too find a lot of debris comes out when removing the anode/plug and draining the tank (especially under pressure ) but I was really shocked when I borrowed an "$8 wand thingie" from my uncle and used it the first time. (several years ago now)
I couldn't believe the additional crud I got out even though it looked clean.
I now have one of my own. $8 for peace of mind clean really isn't all that much.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=64
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11-07-2016, 04:00 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 2,024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker
Just something to consider...
From your comments, you seemed surprised the water heater was empty after removing the anode/plug but having opened the low point drains and opening a faucet.
Yes, that will drain most of the water from the water heater.
UNFORTUNATELY... it also drains most of the crap that was in the water heater, into the plumbing on its way to the low point drains. While some of it finds its way out the low point drains, some of it gets trapped in the plumbing. Next time you pressurize your system, you may find a bunch of crap trapped in your faucet screens or in the mixing valves themselves.
I always close my bypass valves on the water heater BEFORE opening the low point drains and faucets. That way when I remove the anode plug to drain and flush the water heater, ALL the crud runs out the plug hole.
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Additionally, the rod was pitted.. I would have replaced it, 12 bucks in Amazon.com everyday.
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11-07-2016, 04:14 PM
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#19
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SidecarFlip
Additionally, the rod was pitted.. I would have replaced it, 12 bucks in Amazon.com everyday.
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Yep, mine gets a new one every year regardless.
I find mine will start deteriorating near the plug end first since there is a larger mass of steel near around the area of the plug bung on the tank.
I want sacrificial material (from the rod) as near that area as possible. So even if there is still some life left on the rod, $12 is inexpensive maintenance and peace of mind.
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=64
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11-07-2016, 04:38 PM
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#20
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Canadian Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,229
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You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.
__________________
2023 Rockwood Signature 8262RBS
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed
2019 Rockwood Signature 8290BS (2019 - 2022)
2011 Rockwood Signature 8293SS (2015 - 2018)
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
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