Water Heater Drain / Anode Rod

[2016251RKS]

Bought a 1 1/16 6pt socket to remove the water heater drain plug. Undid the plus, tank was empty (?) - I had drained all the low points and holding tanks, and left faucets open.

Anode rod showed lots of pitting and doing its job. Flushed the tank with hose and plenty of debris came out. Wiped rod down, put fresh teflon tape on threads and reinstalled drain plug / rod.

Leaving the heat set at 45* (hooked up to spare 45# lp bottle). I think I'm prepped for the NC winter....

21 days used this season. . . about $1k a night (!)

[AGFazio]

Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.

[5picker]

Just something to consider...
From your comments, you seemed surprised the water heater was empty after removing the anode/plug but having opened the low point drains and opening a faucet.

Yes, that will drain most of the water from the water heater.
UNFORTUNATELY... it also drains most of the crap that was in the water heater, into the plumbing on its way to the low point drains. While some of it finds its way out the low point drains, some of it gets trapped in the plumbing. Next time you pressurize your system, you may find a bunch of crap trapped in your faucet screens or in the mixing valves themselves.

I always close my bypass valves on the water heater BEFORE opening the low point drains and faucets. That way when I remove the anode plug to drain and flush the water heater, ALL the crud runs out the plug hole.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by AGFazio

Rather than use propane, could you plug in a small electric heater and just put the furnace fan on low. Maybe one of the oil filled radiator type so there is no worry of dust building up on the element.

You can't just put the furnace fan on low without a by-pass switch installed. He still will need heat in the basement and should have a duct down there..

[2016251RKS]

I'm using a small rotating / fan heater and a regular fan to keep the air circulating. Have the lp furnace set to fire when the temp drops....I want to use the furnace because, I think, that there is some heating transferred to the (covered) underbelly area - and that the heat ducts run near the pipes (at least under the shower). While drained, I'm trying to avoid any issues. I put a cup + of rv antifreeze down each drain as well.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by 2016251RKS

I'm using a small rotating / fan heater and a regular fan to keep the air circulating. Have the lp furnace set to fire when the temp drops....I want to use the furnace because, I think, that there is some heating transferred to the (covered) underbelly area - and that the heat ducts run near the pipes (at least under the shower). While drained, I'm trying to avoid any issues. I put a cup + of rv antifreeze down each drain as well.

That is pretty much what I do 70 miles north of you . I just plug a space heater in the basement and one in the trailer. Turn on the tank heaters on and let it go, no problem yet. I do insulate my outdoor shower door...

[Grampa Jim]

I have the PERFECT solution, folks,,,,,,,full time!!!!

[Witch Doctor]

My trailer would fall a part in 6 mos.....

[aerohead34]

I used one of the oil filled radiator style heaters while living in my 284BH. It really does a good job keeping the inside warm. I have the arctic package so the lower side of the camper is insulated.

[dwreefs]

Just wondering why if you drained your tank and lines why you would heat your RV in the winter. I drain and then blow out lines with air compressor and put some RV antifreeze in the traps good for the winter

[D_B Travelers]

You mentioned no debris in the water heater tank. While they sell the wash out wands for RV water heater tanks I found an easy way to clear all the debris out. Just forget to relieve the pressure on the tank and proceed to unscrew the element...pretty sure ALL the debris from the tank was on my shirt, my sleeves, my face, and the side of the RV next to mine. Clean as a whistle! And the RV next to me got the side all washed and cleaned while I was getting the debris off. LOL!

[Grampa Jim]

You mean that I'm not the only brain farter on this thread? I've opened mine also with the pressure still on.
.

[D_B Travelers]

Good to know Grampa Jim! Us Rocket scientists have to stick together! I took a flashlight and looked into the tank after my "cleaning" and found it really was very clean. No need to buy that expensive $8 wand thingie! AND it has given my DW another story to tell when we camp. So far no one else has admitted doing this except you and I.

[Grampa Jim]

[polishdon]

Originally Posted by D_B Travelers

You mentioned no debris in the water heater tank. While they sell the wash out wands for RV water heater tanks I found an easy way to clear all the debris out. Just forget to relieve the pressure on the tank and proceed to unscrew the element...pretty sure ALL the debris from the tank was on my shirt, my sleeves, my face, and the side of the RV next to mine. Clean as a whistle! And the RV next to me got the side all washed and cleaned while I was getting the debris off. LOL!

LOL I did this too being a winterizing newbie this year. Watched all the videos, thought I had it all figured out, but forgot to turn off the pump before I pulled the anode.

[D_B Travelers]

Yup! And while I found the method a bit messy, the tank is really clean!

[5picker]

Originally Posted by D_B Travelers

{clip}I took a flashlight and looked into the tank after my "cleaning" and found it really was very clean. No need to buy that expensive $8 wand thingie! {clip}

Something to consider...

I too find a lot of debris comes out when removing the anode/plug and draining the tank (especially under pressure ) but I was really shocked when I borrowed an "$8 wand thingie" from my uncle and used it the first time. (several years ago now)

I couldn't believe the additional crud I got out even though it looked clean.
I now have one of my own. $8 for peace of mind clean really isn't all that much.

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Just something to consider...
From your comments, you seemed surprised the water heater was empty after removing the anode/plug but having opened the low point drains and opening a faucet.

Yes, that will drain most of the water from the water heater.
UNFORTUNATELY... it also drains most of the crap that was in the water heater, into the plumbing on its way to the low point drains. While some of it finds its way out the low point drains, some of it gets trapped in the plumbing. Next time you pressurize your system, you may find a bunch of crap trapped in your faucet screens or in the mixing valves themselves.

I always close my bypass valves on the water heater BEFORE opening the low point drains and faucets. That way when I remove the anode plug to drain and flush the water heater, ALL the crud runs out the plug hole.

Additionally, the rod was pitted.. I would have replaced it, 12 bucks in Amazon.com everyday.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by SidecarFlip

Additionally, the rod was pitted.. I would have replaced it, 12 bucks in Amazon.com everyday.

Yep, mine gets a new one every year regardless.

I find mine will start deteriorating near the plug end first since there is a larger mass of steel near around the area of the plug bung on the tank.

I want sacrificial material (from the rod) as near that area as possible. So even if there is still some life left on the rod, $12 is inexpensive maintenance and peace of mind.

[itat]

You'll find this fairly recent video from RV Geeks to be interesting. I found a lot of crud in the bottom of my WH this Fall so I'm going to do this vinegar treatment in the Spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TL7AtXJYNcc