20pack10 just bought and had to evacuate town help

[sgtlm17]

As ChipBruce said above, the members here have tons of knowledge and willing to help. Just ask and you will have more answers than you thought possible.

[rjgrady]

I might add that I have been surprised at how little propane the refrigerator uses. I thought it would use a lot more.

[Ozziedodge67]

Thanks a lot for caring! Every one tried to help me above and beyond in a time I needed info!!!!!

•the reason I was ranting about the guy @ Cherokee is because he is the only context and has still not responded to me 3 days later! /and I want every one to know!

If I had a customer @ our Goodyear shops and they had to evacuate , I would atleast respond to the poor guy

[polishdon]

Like others said, these are all things that should have been covered during your PDI. Yes the main owners manual itself is not that helpful, but you should have also received separate manuals for each appliance, hot water tank, furnace etc.....

I have been dealing with Chad on warranty issues. He is the Cherokee service manager. Sure he doesn't respond right away, but I have been very happy with his turn around time.

[Ozziedodge67]

As a corporation owner I say 24hr call back max. We will see how he is In the long run

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Ozziedodge67

As a corporation owner I say 24hr call back max. We will see how he is In the long run

You give indications that you didn't take the suggestion made by bikendan in post #19. Have you contacted your dealer as bikendan suggested?

[polishdon]

I believe you're trying to get answers from the wrong person. This forum has given you plenty of information, most importantly, to call the dealer you got it from. When I picked up my 25pack12 we did over a 2 hour PDI. They went over all the things you're asking and a whole lot more. I took notes, and along with all the owners manuals and this forum I have been able to answer any questions I had.

[Ozziedodge67]

Yes I contacted my local camper dealer. It is a local hole in the wall kind of place, good prices just not sir of knowledge.

I have listened to what every one has said and thanks every one here on the forum...

Was not trying to bad mouth any one on here.

If any one got the wrong picture I'm sorry

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Ozziedodge67

Yes I contacted my welding dealer. It is a local hole in the wall kind of place, good prices just not sir of knowledge.

I have listened to what every one has said and thanks every one here on the forum...

Was not trying to bad mouth any one on here.

If any one got the wrong picture I'm sorry

How did the topic of welding get involved?

[Ozziedodge67]

Mis spelled and corrected that.


Ok I just want to verify I'm doing this correctly ... outside the camper on the water heater itself has a black switch on and off, and the on position I would assume is the electric way to do it if you have power supply. Make sure you have either pumped water or connected to the city water? Also when finished so I don't burn anything up I need to turn switch off and then unhook water supply?wither electric or propane I need the use the heater switch to heat up water

[CaptnJohn]

Before you turn WH on elec tug on the relief valve. It should spit water indicating there really is water to heat. No water = burnt anode.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

Before you turn WH on elec tug on the relief valve. It should spit water indicating there really is water to heat. No water = burnt anode.

Not burnt anode... burnt electric element.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by Ozziedodge67

As a corporation owner I say 24hr call back max. We will see how he is In the long run

Unfortunately you're dealing with the RV industry.

Comparing it to other industries, like the Auto industry, will just continue to frustrate you.

Also, the selling dealer bears the responsibility of first level customer support.

[Ozziedodge67]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

Before you turn WH on elec tug on the relief valve. It should spit water indicating there really is water to heat. No water = burnt anode.

Yes I got that

So the water heater switch inside is only if I am using propane????


And if I am hooked up some where flip electric switch on under the exterior water heater cover and it will stay good the whole trip

[wmtire]

If you have the Suburban brand heater, this detailed FAQ thread (link below) may help in understanding the operation of. Also read the post about the winterizing valves. We keep this FAQ, cause as you stated, many dealers/PDI's fail to explain this properly.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post327988

[Ian Walker]

Hi Ozziedodge67,
First of all your going to be fine!!! I may be repeating here what others have said but here goes.
Your fridge. Set to AUTO - that will be 120 volts electric & save propane.
(Watch it for a minute to make sure it stays on AUTO). Will require 24 hours to get the fridge cold the first time you use it.
Hot Water Heater - run on electric (switch outside in access panel).
How to tell if Hot Water Tank is full? open any tap & if water comes out the tank is full.
Those hoses up front - low point drains - only needed to store/winterize
trailer. Or to drain tanks should you wish to.
You may want a water filter (install on hose from city water)
Cheapest - Buy in RV Section of Walmart. Check the other products while you're there. You may need to extend your sewer hose. That's the place to look for one. DON'T buy the cheapest sewer hose or a year from now you'll
be back for a better one. That's Experience Talking!
Get yourself a small electric heater. Don't buy the cheapest. Buy one that will maintain a certain temperature. Why? The furnace runs on propane & you have to fill that. While the campgrounds supply you with electricity. Also the furnace in our trailer is quite noisy when it comes &
wakes my wife. So the heater will keep the furnace from running. Really
good for those cool overnights.
As for anything else. Just ask & don't be afraid if you think it's a dumb
question. It's not.
Now it's Time To Enjoy Yourself !!!!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Ian Walker

How to tell if Hot Water Tank is full? open any tap & if water comes out the tank is full.

This isn't necessarily true in all cases, and if the crossover valve is still in the winterization mode, you will get water from the hot tap, but it's not coming from the hot water tank.

I'd hate to lead a newbie down this road, without them fully understanding how the winterization crossover/bypass valves work first.

As from the previous link:

"Probably the easiest way to verify there is water actually in the water heater, is to briefly flip up the lever on the temperature/pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater (pic below). If water comes out here, then the heater should be full of water. Just turning on the hot water faucets inside the RV, cannot be a trusted way to verify. If you have your water heater bypass valves still in the winterization mode, then the cold water line is actually merged into the hot water line, and you will get water out of the hot water faucets.......but it's not coming from the water heater, which would be bypassed and dry inside....and since it's dry, you'll burn out your electric heating element if you turn the switch on."

[Ozziedodge67]

So the air conditioner I can use electric

The heat is propane only?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Ozziedodge67

So the air conditioner I can use electric

The heat is propane only?

Besides the water heater link, these are a couple of good reads by Mark Polk that I always suggest to new RV'ers as to help explain the electric systems.

Basic RV Electricity - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Also our FAQ subforum section has many threads on more common questions that may help you too as you learn. Reading is definitely your friend, and feel free to ask anything you have questions on.