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Old 08-29-2015, 10:21 AM   #1
RiderBloke
 
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26RR Floor Structure

Folks, I am contemplating how to best safely and somewhat conveniently mount my motorcycle Harbor a Freight chock in my 26RR. I have searched the forums but not found the info I want. Mine has some soft insulating material under the floor and so I cannot see what is under the floor boards. I am only interested in the area from the rear axle to the ramp door, but mainly from the axle back about 3 feet.
Does anyone know what the structure under there is?
Some questions may help:
How thick is the floor?
Are there wooden beams under there? If so which way do they run (across or longitudinal), how big, etc.
Do any wires run under the floor? (I don't think so but ya never know)
Can the soft underbelly be dropped and successfully put back by the average Joe? This would be to put some strong under plates on extra mounting points.

As far as I can see all the tanks are over the front axle and forward from there. But ya never know if you can't really see them.

If by any chance someone had pix of this it would help.
There was no Cherokee factory tour at the FROG Rally and I didn't organize myself to have a private tour. Now I regret that a lot.
My bike is a 500lb BMW F800GT. The middle rings on the trailer are too far back to use and the forward ones are way too far forward. I need the bike as far rearward as is possible as my trailer has a heavy hitch weight at present.
Thanks in anticipation.


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Old 08-30-2015, 12:07 AM   #2
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Do you want to make it a permanent part of the floor?
I haven't had any problems just placing my Honda Goldwing in the Harbor Freight mount and use two tie downs from lower triple tree to the floor of camper - 900+ bike hasn't moved and inch. One strap through back wheel for emergency stops. I use horse mat from Tractor supply and put it under the front feet of bike mount to protect floor vinyl floor and a conveyor belt under the length of the whole set up to back wheel of bike.

I know you most likely are set on putting screws in the floor But I figured I would share my good experience towing without drilling into the floor. I have driven from Greensburg Pa to McKein Pa this year and over the mountains in Donigal Pa - That was a steep hill and onto a right turn then had to go back up again when leaving - No Problem. Have also have wheel chalk 5 inches back from picture shown below and still no issues.

I wonder if you could put the BMW in back wards?? or just be nice if wheel chalk would fit on rear wheel huh and strap in the opposite way huh!
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Li...7efff3!6m1!1e1
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:52 AM   #3
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26RR Floor Structure

Bluewoo,
Thanks for the reply. I had seen your photo before and noted it. My floor rings are in a very different place than yours and that's the problem. They are too far back, in fact about 12 inches too far back to the point of being slightly behind the handle bar line, and just 6 inches in from the walls. The only feasible way to tie the front down at present is to tie it to the HF chock, but it is tying the HF chock down securely that I am contemplating.
I prefer NOT to drill holes but I can't see a way to hold the chock down securely without drilling some. I am also looking at the etrack system as it may be the best especially if I just screw it to the floor. It says for maximum strength to put a plate under the floor but that looks too difficult and puts me back where I am with my question.
I looked at 2 rigs at the Rally and how they did theirs, both differently, but they both had a way to put a plate under the floor.
Thanks again and I hope I get some more replies to help out.
PS I wish the factories had diagrams of structure, electrical wiring, etc for us to access/buy.


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Old 08-30-2015, 10:08 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiderBloke View Post
Bluewoo,
Thanks for the reply. I had seen your photo before and noted it. My floor rings are in a very different place than yours and that's the problem. They are too far back, in fact about 12 inches too far back to the point of being slightly behind the handle bar line, and just 6 inches in from the walls. The only feasible way to tie the front down at present is to tie it to the HF chock, but it is tying the HF chock down securely that I am contemplating.
I prefer NOT to drill holes but I can't see a way to hold the chock down securely without drilling some. I am also looking at the etrack system as it may be the best especially if I just screw it to the floor. It says for maximum strength to put a plate under the floor but that looks too difficult and puts me back where I am with my question.
I looked at 2 rigs at the Rally and how they did theirs, both differently, but they both had a way to put a plate under the floor.
Thanks again and I hope I get some more replies to help out.
PS I wish the factories had diagrams of structure, electrical wiring, etc for us to access/buy.


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This is what I did, I'm not saying it's the best way but I'm very happy with it. We have a puma 298fqu now but this is the same way I did our grey wolf 21rr. Bought 4 screw in inserts from j&p cycle, drilled 4 holes thru the chock and the 4 holes in the floor. Screw the inserts into the floor with a Allen wrench until they are flush with the floor. You don't notice them to much. The front 2 hole I used eye bolts because the chock sits off the floor a little. Just screw them in by hand, and easy to remove.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-30-2015, 12:55 PM   #5
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Nice set up PineRock!
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Old 08-30-2015, 12:58 PM   #6
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http://www.amazon.com/USA-Flip-Motor.../dp/B004JBB9BA

Just a thought

2015 28 WP, Wheel Chock in garage

Biggest thing I see with this is it only stops forward motion not side too side like the harbor freight does, I really think PineRock has what you need.
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:11 PM   #7
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PineRock and bluewoo,
This is good material for my grey cells to cogitate on. I am searching the Internet for those bolt anchors (or whatever they are called) and want to see what they look like. I also will go for a bike ride to my dealer who is very good to ask some technical questions.
Thanks fellas for the help. I hope some other ideas may flow in also.


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Old 08-31-2015, 08:02 AM   #8
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Good luck on your project RB
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:54 AM   #9
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I attached aluminum angle to the Harbor Freight chock and slotted the angle to slip over the rings. I use the rings for tie down and the hooks keep the chock from moving, saw this on line as well. With my Harley Street Glide loaded you can still open the bathroom door and refrig door.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:55 AM   #10
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Still cant get multiple photos to load, here is one with the bike loaded
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