26RR Floor Structure

[RiderBloke]

Folks, I am contemplating how to best safely and somewhat conveniently mount my motorcycle Harbor a Freight chock in my 26RR. I have searched the forums but not found the info I want. Mine has some soft insulating material under the floor and so I cannot see what is under the floor boards. I am only interested in the area from the rear axle to the ramp door, but mainly from the axle back about 3 feet.
Does anyone know what the structure under there is?
Some questions may help:
How thick is the floor?
Are there wooden beams under there? If so which way do they run (across or longitudinal), how big, etc.
Do any wires run under the floor? (I don't think so but ya never know)
Can the soft underbelly be dropped and successfully put back by the average Joe? This would be to put some strong under plates on extra mounting points.

As far as I can see all the tanks are over the front axle and forward from there. But ya never know if you can't really see them.

If by any chance someone had pix of this it would help.
There was no Cherokee factory tour at the FROG Rally and I didn't organize myself to have a private tour. Now I regret that a lot.
My bike is a 500lb BMW F800GT. The middle rings on the trailer are too far back to use and the forward ones are way too far forward. I need the bike as far rearward as is possible as my trailer has a heavy hitch weight at present.
Thanks in anticipation.


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Toyota Tundra towing 2016 Grey Wolf 26RR
24 nights camping & 1450 miles so far (August 17)

[bluewoo]

Do you want to make it a permanent part of the floor?
I haven't had any problems just placing my Honda Goldwing in the Harbor Freight mount and use two tie downs from lower triple tree to the floor of camper - 900+ bike hasn't moved and inch. One strap through back wheel for emergency stops. I use horse mat from Tractor supply and put it under the front feet of bike mount to protect floor vinyl floor and a conveyor belt under the length of the whole set up to back wheel of bike.

I know you most likely are set on putting screws in the floor But I figured I would share my good experience towing without drilling into the floor. I have driven from Greensburg Pa to McKein Pa this year and over the mountains in Donigal Pa - That was a steep hill and onto a right turn then had to go back up again when leaving - No Problem. Have also have wheel chalk 5 inches back from picture shown below and still no issues.

I wonder if you could put the BMW in back wards?? or just be nice if wheel chalk would fit on rear wheel huh and strap in the opposite way huh!
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Li...7efff3!6m1!1e1

[RiderBloke]

Bluewoo,
Thanks for the reply. I had seen your photo before and noted it. My floor rings are in a very different place than yours and that's the problem. They are too far back, in fact about 12 inches too far back to the point of being slightly behind the handle bar line, and just 6 inches in from the walls. The only feasible way to tie the front down at present is to tie it to the HF chock, but it is tying the HF chock down securely that I am contemplating.
I prefer NOT to drill holes but I can't see a way to hold the chock down securely without drilling some. I am also looking at the etrack system as it may be the best especially if I just screw it to the floor. It says for maximum strength to put a plate under the floor but that looks too difficult and puts me back where I am with my question.
I looked at 2 rigs at the Rally and how they did theirs, both differently, but they both had a way to put a plate under the floor.
Thanks again and I hope I get some more replies to help out.
PS I wish the factories had diagrams of structure, electrical wiring, etc for us to access/buy.


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Toyota Tundra towing 2016 Grey Wolf 26RR
24 nights camping & 1450 miles so far (August 17)

[PineRock]

Originally Posted by RiderBloke

Bluewoo,
Thanks for the reply. I had seen your photo before and noted it. My floor rings are in a very different place than yours and that's the problem. They are too far back, in fact about 12 inches too far back to the point of being slightly behind the handle bar line, and just 6 inches in from the walls. The only feasible way to tie the front down at present is to tie it to the HF chock, but it is tying the HF chock down securely that I am contemplating.
I prefer NOT to drill holes but I can't see a way to hold the chock down securely without drilling some. I am also looking at the etrack system as it may be the best especially if I just screw it to the floor. It says for maximum strength to put a plate under the floor but that looks too difficult and puts me back where I am with my question.
I looked at 2 rigs at the Rally and how they did theirs, both differently, but they both had a way to put a plate under the floor.
Thanks again and I hope I get some more replies to help out.
PS I wish the factories had diagrams of structure, electrical wiring, etc for us to access/buy.


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Toyota Tundra towing 2016 Grey Wolf 26RR
24 nights camping & 1450 miles so far (August 17)

This is what I did, I'm not saying it's the best way but I'm very happy with it. We have a puma 298fqu now but this is the same way I did our grey wolf 21rr. Bought 4 screw in inserts from j&p cycle, drilled 4 holes thru the chock and the 4 holes in the floor. Screw the inserts into the floor with a Allen wrench until they are flush with the floor. You don't notice them to much. The front 2 hole I used eye bolts because the chock sits off the floor a little. Just screw them in by hand, and easy to remove.

[bluewoo]

Nice set up PineRock!

[bluewoo]

http://www.amazon.com/USA-Flip-Motor.../dp/B004JBB9BA

Just a thought

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...age-89469.html

Biggest thing I see with this is it only stops forward motion not side too side like the harbor freight does, I really think PineRock has what you need.

[RiderBloke]

PineRock and bluewoo,
This is good material for my grey cells to cogitate on. I am searching the Internet for those bolt anchors (or whatever they are called) and want to see what they look like. I also will go for a bike ride to my dealer who is very good to ask some technical questions.
Thanks fellas for the help. I hope some other ideas may flow in also.


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[bluewoo]

Good luck on your project RB

[Cuzdog]

I attached aluminum angle to the Harbor Freight chock and slotted the angle to slip over the rings. I use the rings for tie down and the hooks keep the chock from moving, saw this on line as well. With my Harley Street Glide loaded you can still open the bathroom door and refrig door.

[Cuzdog]

Still cant get multiple photos to load, here is one with the bike loaded

[RiderBloke]

Cuzdog,
Thanks. That looks promising. That puts the weight of the bike farther forward. I have a high hitch weight to watch - I had the rig weighed at the FROG Rally. But your system is the least holes drilled - in fact none. Thanks.


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[muttmutt]

I used to have a 19RR and now the 26RR. I use the Lock & Load chock and love it. It works very similar to the Harbor Freight one . I haul a Harley Road Glide and tying the front is a problem with the type of fairing. This chock has a strap that goes around the front wheel and locks the bike in place. Therefore no front straps are needed to go to the tie downs. I love this set up as the bike can stay in the camper in bad weather and I can still easily get around in the kitchen area with no straps to trip over in front. Only the base plate stays mounted in the floor. When camping I loosen 2 nuts and the chock part easily slides off the base plate out of the way. Then I just throw a rug over the base plate. I just cut a small 6"slit in the underbelly material to access and through bolt the chock. I did not trust lag bolts with my 8-900 lb Harley. The floor is plywood and has wood floor joists. Floor joists run front to back not side to side, I found nothing in the way behind the axles. If you crawl under and push the underbelly material up you can feel the floor joists. After through mounting the chock bolts with large washers on bottom side, I bought some good quality black duct tape to seal the slit I cut. Have to look very hard to notice it.

[RiderBloke]

Muttmutt,
Just before I read your post I had spoken to my dealership and that's exactly what they told me. They even have a wide tape made of the same stuff as the membrane to patch the holes. Thanks for that info though. This thread has now given everyone who is searching as I was a great deal of good info and suggestions.


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[RiderBloke]

Folks,
Here are my findings when I measured and measured and measured again. I undid the two of the factory installed tie downs at the front. The one near the door showed that the floor joists are sistered and do not therefore run in a straight line front to back; the one near the fridge showed the factory was nearly right off target, probably because of the sistered pattern; and the third photo is our first hole. 😛 Almost perfectly placed. The one on the other side we cut was also on target.
Note that our tie downs have a D shaped cutout.
Hope this helps others.
Thanks to all of you who submitted info for us.

They put the screw in at an angle to hit the beam.


You can see the sister beam below the one in the middle. This one runs down beside the wheel arch.


Whackidoo we got it right. Thanks to my good friend Dennis and his wife's special drill bit for cutting holes.


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[bluewoo]

Cool, Thanks for sharing RB!!

[RiderBloke]

Finished product. Maroon is one if the colors on the outside decals so I used that for some of my creations. Will try the bike in it and go for a test run in a few days. Just a few photos which may help others. The bike's front wheel is right over the rear axle.


Kitchen sink side has slotted bar extending about 8 inches past HF bar. It will be strong enough to to hold any shifting. Screwed hook mounted differently from other end. Holds very tightly.


Attached holed steel to HF bar by enlarging some holes to fit existing bolts. Removed feet from HF bar and put horse stall mat under. Used hook screwed through HF bar (with hook open end cut down a little to lock against the bar.


From the front. The bike is deliberately off center to make access to kitchen easier and hopefully that side seat can be left down with the bike in. Long carpet is usually in the center between the two seats. The other carpet rolled up is the same pattern and shaped to fit kitchen area.


From the rear. When traveling I will sit on my box ver the RH wheel well (which carries kitchen appliances mainly) and use our just purchased folding table which you can see on the left. We got it at Goodwill store for $4.99 - it's brand new but needed a little fix. It will be tied to the drop down leaf I have on there against which it is leaning. I will put a chair cushion between them and use that to sit n the box when I eat.


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Toyota Tundra towing 2016 Grey Wolf 26RR
24 nights camping & 1450 miles so far (August 17)

[bluewoo]

Looks good!!

[NJ-Bill]

Originally Posted by Cuzdog

I attached aluminum angle to the Harbor Freight chock and slotted the angle to slip over the rings. I use the rings for tie down and the hooks keep the chock from moving, saw this on line as well. With my Harley Street Glide loaded you can still open the bathroom door and refrig door.

Do you secure the d-rings to the aluminum angle?

[Cuzdog]

I put the tie down hooks in the D rings, that will keep it from jumping out of the slot in a worse case bucking. I really think it may be over kill but dont risk it. Had planned to mount my Gopro in the trailer on a trip just to see what moves, yet to do so. I have hauled my bike about 1000 miles and have not seen any signs of movement or loose tie downs