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Old 12-14-2015, 02:42 PM   #201
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juice5, what tires are you using? I have the China Bomb tires and before I take this on a real long trip would feel better with better tires.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:04 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kcmusa View Post
How did you weigh it?
truck and trailer together then truck only?
why i ask is because pin weights is about 1000lbs and you are about that far off factory weight.
Not sure how Juice weighed his trailer but it's easy. There are no Cat scales close to me but the county dump has a certified single scale. My procedure was to weigh the truck alone (full fuel, driver and pax, all the misc stuff). Then, I pulled the truck front wheels only onto the scale, then with the trailer hooked up with WD in place. That showed me I have 900 pounds of hitch weight. Next, truck and trailer front axle on scale, then complete truck and trailer. Last, drove truck off the scale and left both trailer axles on, then rear axle only on the scale.

With some minor calculations of the six with figures, I was able to get the weights for each axle. Best part...they didn't charge me anything.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:17 PM   #203
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Emm-Dee
Quoting the first part of your procedure:
"My procedure was to weigh the truck alone (full fuel, driver and pax, all the misc stuff). Then, I pulled the truck front wheels only onto the scale, then with the trailer hooked up with WD in place. That showed me I have 900 pounds of hitch weight"

Are you assuming that the WD hitch throws ALL the hitch weight on the front wheels of the TV or have I misunderstood what you did? I certainly wouldn't think that.


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Old 12-15-2015, 04:49 PM   #204
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Are you assuming that the WD hitch throws ALL the hitch weight on the front wheels of the TV or have I misunderstood what you did? I certainly wouldn't think that.


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With the trailer attached, the first weight showed the front wheels had 2880 pounds, which was 200 pounds less than it was without the trailer. The entire truck (with trailer attached but its axles off the scale) weighed 900 pounds more than the entire truck without the trailer connected. I was thinking that meant there was 1100 pounds on the hitch ball but that's how the scale operator said everyone else was doing it.

I'm still trying to figure out why the front reduced weight by 200 pounds even though the WD system was attached. I thought the hitch was supposed to send more weight toward the front (not all the weight but at least part of it). With all the axles on the scale, minus the unloaded truck weight, gave me a trailer total weight of 7440 pounds.

I'm definitely not an expert on this stuff so I'm going to find a maintenance shop more capable of setting it up than my selling dealer.
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:27 PM   #205
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I'm confused as well. Once you have the lone truck weight. Hookup without WDH and weigh the truck only; simple subtraction and the result is TW. By all means the get trailer axles individually if you want to. The to see how WDH is adjusted repeat. I have never seen a method to get TW with ole WDH on. But in still learning. WW
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Old 12-15-2015, 05:54 PM   #206
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Here's my Tundra with the 26RR (no motorcycle) professionally weighed wheel by wheel at the FROG Rally ($60)
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:57 PM   #207
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27rr tires and level

Has anyone upgraded the tires on there 27rr, I am looking to go to 15 or 16 inch tires so I can get load d or e. Is there enough room to put larger rims and tires on the trailer and one more question where is the best place to level the trailer front to back,I have tried putting a level on the frame by the propane tanks and also on the frame in front of the axels.Every place I have tried shows different on the level. Has anyone found a better place to get it level. Any ideals are welcome
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Old 01-19-2016, 05:12 AM   #208
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Hey jertourrider, I have been thinking about the same thing with the tires but have not done the research yet, please share your results when you do. I level mine front to back using the siding seam on the side of the camper towards the front under bedroom window and side to side using the a-frame where the bottles are installed. The bubble level on my tongue jack isn't an accurate level. I also double check on the kitchen counter.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:00 AM   #209
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If you level the frame on level ground using a measuring tape and then attach the levels with the bubble in the middle, you will be pretty close. I always finalize with a level in the fridge after that.


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Old 01-19-2016, 07:34 AM   #210
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IMHO only 2 things count in order of importance:
1. The fridge
2. The floor (i.e. Me)
I don't care whether the frame is level or not.


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Old 01-19-2016, 09:57 AM   #211
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What I try to do is one time, I get the trailer dead on level based on the fridge and an aggravating door to the bathroom (I'm A-retentive) that won't stay open; then using a dedicated level and take a reading at the tongue a certain way and use that point each time. Mark the bubble location within the level (Sharpie). You will use it in the same location on the tongue and make the bubble hit the same point. It doesn't matter how level the frame or tongue is.... and it will save a minute or two each time you set up.

Stick on levels work, if you stick them on correctly... I did this and mine seemed to move?? At least it did before it fell off and it still didn't match the evil door.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:53 AM   #212
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There are lots of ways to do things. Since my floor sits on my frame it makes it easy to get it in the ball park by measuring the distance to the ground and then using the fridge for the final inspection. Then attach the levels anywhere you want at level. If you would rather make trips in and out of the trailer the results are the same. I was merely offering another way of doing it as requested. All good. I've never had a scenario where I've leveled the trailer and then went inside and the floor wasn't level.


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Old 01-19-2016, 06:39 PM   #213
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level

Thanks for all the help, seems there are a number of ways to level.
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:01 AM   #214
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We just purchased a 2016 27RR. We attended the RV show in Cleveland and liked the 27RR the best for our needs. Very similar to the Heartland Pioneer but about 800 LBS. lighter dry weight. We are going to be pulling it with an older Ram 1500 4WD with a 5.7 hemi and weight distribution hitch, so weight was a concern.

We are not campers but our son races MX and wants to start hitting some races that are a bit of a distance away. Tried tent camping this past summer and about got blown away in a monsoon. The wife won't do the tent thing anyways. Also staying in hotels as well but my son likes so stay at the track with all of his buddies (and girls) so the toy hauler seemed to be the solution.

Both of his bikes will have a combined weight of about 350 LBS., a couple of tool cabinets of 100 LBS each, a gas powered pressure washer and a floor jack will make up the majority of the cargo so I think we should be OK on weight.

Will not be picking this up until March but just trying to get some ideas of what will be needed. Have not had anything but a cargo trailer before this. Good stuff here.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:18 AM   #215
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Kenda ST205r75 14 D have a load rating of 2045. Sticking levels work great. Amen on the devil door.
I have 3000 miles on China Bombs so far no problem. Watching closely.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:00 AM   #216
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Equalizer

For those of you running the Equalizer Hitch, what size did you go with? I was leaning towards the 1000# size but started wondering about the actual vs. advertised hitch weight. Anyone with real-life hitch weights, loaded and unloaded? We will be hauling a RZR S900 but will also be empty sometimes too.

thanks!
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:57 AM   #217
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New member here picking up our 27rr tomorrow. I would like to know what kind of power hook up can I use, looking to buy a generator is the camper multi voltage 120v-230v with and inverter if so in need to know how many watts do you feel comfortable with while dry camping thanks for any input.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:19 AM   #218
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First of all, good luck with your 27rr. I am a one year owner and thoroughly loved it. We traveled all over the country with it and had NO major issues. Just realize there is a difference between your $20k unit and a $100K unit and you will have to really keep up on the maintenance and care. But, I can not express enough how easy it is to tow, set up, and teardown. After years of camping in a motorcycle pull behind pop-up and tents. I am in the Taj Mahal!

Your TH is a 30 amp unit and is 120v only. I purchased a 4500W generator. You can spend from about $500 to several thousand on a generator/inverter. Much of the cost difference is dealing with noise and stability of the amps. I purchased an inexpensive unit as I just could not justify the additional cost considering we do not dry camp very often. It has worked flawlessly and no one has ever complained about the noise. Of course, I am smart enough not to run it at times that will annoy them. LOL!
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:26 AM   #219
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Have been an owner for about a year. I have a Victory Cross Country Tour. Fully loaded with water, MC, propane, batteries, and STUFF, our hitch weight is about #950 pounds. My 6.2 Liter Silverado pulls it with no issues. I did add air bags in the back because of Chevy's soft springs. THAT WAS HUGE! I have found you will need the same stuff you have at home but I recommend you but stuff to keep JUST in the TH. It is a real hassle to load and unload if you don't do that. I am building a special group of tools to keep in the TH also. Don't worry about buying a bunch of stuff until you really figure out what you need.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:46 AM   #220
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Thanks, we have a couple of trips planned one being the Indianapolis 500 so in will be dry camping for the weekend will be taking the bike for sure easier to get parking up close to the track.
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