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Old 01-19-2016, 09:57 AM   #211
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What I try to do is one time, I get the trailer dead on level based on the fridge and an aggravating door to the bathroom (I'm A-retentive) that won't stay open; then using a dedicated level and take a reading at the tongue a certain way and use that point each time. Mark the bubble location within the level (Sharpie). You will use it in the same location on the tongue and make the bubble hit the same point. It doesn't matter how level the frame or tongue is.... and it will save a minute or two each time you set up.

Stick on levels work, if you stick them on correctly... I did this and mine seemed to move?? At least it did before it fell off and it still didn't match the evil door.

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Old 01-19-2016, 11:53 AM   #212
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There are lots of ways to do things. Since my floor sits on my frame it makes it easy to get it in the ball park by measuring the distance to the ground and then using the fridge for the final inspection. Then attach the levels anywhere you want at level. If you would rather make trips in and out of the trailer the results are the same. I was merely offering another way of doing it as requested. All good. I've never had a scenario where I've leveled the trailer and then went inside and the floor wasn't level.

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Old 01-19-2016, 06:39 PM   #213
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Thanks for all the help, seems there are a number of ways to level.
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:01 AM   #214
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We just purchased a 2016 27RR. We attended the RV show in Cleveland and liked the 27RR the best for our needs. Very similar to the Heartland Pioneer but about 800 LBS. lighter dry weight. We are going to be pulling it with an older Ram 1500 4WD with a 5.7 hemi and weight distribution hitch, so weight was a concern.

We are not campers but our son races MX and wants to start hitting some races that are a bit of a distance away. Tried tent camping this past summer and about got blown away in a monsoon. The wife won't do the tent thing anyways. Also staying in hotels as well but my son likes so stay at the track with all of his buddies (and girls) so the toy hauler seemed to be the solution.

Both of his bikes will have a combined weight of about 350 LBS., a couple of tool cabinets of 100 LBS each, a gas powered pressure washer and a floor jack will make up the majority of the cargo so I think we should be OK on weight.

Will not be picking this up until March but just trying to get some ideas of what will be needed. Have not had anything but a cargo trailer before this. Good stuff here.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:18 AM   #215
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Kenda ST205r75 14 D have a load rating of 2045. Sticking levels work great. Amen on the devil door.
I have 3000 miles on China Bombs so far no problem. Watching closely.
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Old 01-25-2016, 09:00 AM   #216
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For those of you running the Equalizer Hitch, what size did you go with? I was leaning towards the 1000# size but started wondering about the actual vs. advertised hitch weight. Anyone with real-life hitch weights, loaded and unloaded? We will be hauling a RZR S900 but will also be empty sometimes too.

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Old 01-28-2016, 06:57 AM   #217
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Location: Michigan
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New member here picking up our 27rr tomorrow. I would like to know what kind of power hook up can I use, looking to buy a generator is the camper multi voltage 120v-230v with and inverter if so in need to know how many watts do you feel comfortable with while dry camping thanks for any input.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:19 AM   #218
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First of all, good luck with your 27rr. I am a one year owner and thoroughly loved it. We traveled all over the country with it and had NO major issues. Just realize there is a difference between your $20k unit and a $100K unit and you will have to really keep up on the maintenance and care. But, I can not express enough how easy it is to tow, set up, and teardown. After years of camping in a motorcycle pull behind pop-up and tents. I am in the Taj Mahal!

Your TH is a 30 amp unit and is 120v only. I purchased a 4500W generator. You can spend from about $500 to several thousand on a generator/inverter. Much of the cost difference is dealing with noise and stability of the amps. I purchased an inexpensive unit as I just could not justify the additional cost considering we do not dry camp very often. It has worked flawlessly and no one has ever complained about the noise. Of course, I am smart enough not to run it at times that will annoy them. LOL!
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:26 AM   #219
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Have been an owner for about a year. I have a Victory Cross Country Tour. Fully loaded with water, MC, propane, batteries, and STUFF, our hitch weight is about #950 pounds. My 6.2 Liter Silverado pulls it with no issues. I did add air bags in the back because of Chevy's soft springs. THAT WAS HUGE! I have found you will need the same stuff you have at home but I recommend you but stuff to keep JUST in the TH. It is a real hassle to load and unload if you don't do that. I am building a special group of tools to keep in the TH also. Don't worry about buying a bunch of stuff until you really figure out what you need.
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:46 AM   #220
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Thanks, we have a couple of trips planned one being the Indianapolis 500 so in will be dry camping for the weekend will be taking the bike for sure easier to get parking up close to the track.

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