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Old 05-28-2011, 09:02 PM   #71
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Hi all. I see on the FR website they now have a 21RR. Curious what everyone thinks of this floorplan. Not sure 2 couches and 2 tables is the best use of the extra space. dc
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:11 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by heytomgraywolf View Post
Hi Folks. I just checked my ramp hinge bolts and thought I was missing the 4 inner ones also. BUT, they are different and are tapped into the bumper. I put a separate post on that Grey Wolf 19RR - Nuts/Bolts for Rear Ramp Door

Stargazerandu - can you share what brand of "mechanism" (wheel chock) you bought for strapping your motorcycle down to? (not the wench, but the wheel chock). I have seen solutions from $30 to $300 and while I did not like screwing hardware to the flooring for the $30 solution, the $300 one that I like is a bit pricey. Here is the one I like best, just need to save up for it.... BoltItOn.com
Here is a link to what I got to haul the bike...
Trailer Only Model - Condor - Biker's Friend
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:13 AM   #73
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Hi all. I see on the FR website they now have a 21RR. Curious what everyone thinks of this floorplan. Not sure 2 couches and 2 tables is the best use of the extra space. dc
I think they could have designed it a bit better. I think they should let us have a go at designing the interior. We would come up with the perfect setup!!
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:55 AM   #74
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Hi all. I see on the FR website they now have a 21RR. Curious what everyone thinks of this floorplan. Not sure 2 couches and 2 tables is the best use of the extra space. dc
There was a 21RR at the BBQ competition that we cooked this weekend. I didn't get to see the inside but we'll be at a competition on Saturday and Sunday and that same team will be there. I'll try to visit them and take a look inside.
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Old 05-31-2011, 05:52 PM   #75
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Thanks Stargazerandu. I looked at the "Condor-Biker's Friend" wheel chock. Have you mounted the brackets to the floor yet? Were you able to do it without dropping the Grey Water or Fresh Water tank? I like those types of chocks that you can roll into and they lock, but Lucille is not real big on me installing permanent metal mounting plates to the floor (I told her we can put a carpet over them). I also don't know if I want to get into removing the tanks to get to the underside of the floor about where the chock should go.

Captain Ron - Forest River has the floor plan for the 21RR on their website. It seems identical to the 19RR except with the extra 2 feet, they actually install 2 couches side by side on the same wall... "his and her" couches to crash on.

This weekend I did some modifications to my 19RR. I too found the two drawers to the right of the sink poorly mounted. The "u frame" that holds the drawer glides is just "floating" in space with only the front sides mounted. I put a 3/4" thick piece of wood between the left glide and the thin wall of the upper shelf under the sink on the top drawer and I made a 3-3/4" "leg to support the left glide on the lower drawer and screwed the leg into the carpeted wheel well. For both drawers on the right side glide, I put a 1-1/2" block between the frame and the outer wall of the cabinet. I now have two brown phillip head screws showing when you look at the side of the kitchen cabinet, but they are not too obtrusive.

I also could not understand the waste of space on the bottom shelf of the door under the sink. The "bottom shelf" (actually the floor of the trailer) had a 12" piece of paneling screwed in at an angle that really restricted what you could store down there. I removed it and could see they did not carpet the full wheel well, but the only thing I could find that they were blocking was the copper gas line going to the oven. I have put before and after pictures of the additional room I created in the bottom area inside this door.

In the before shot, you can see I moved the one screw back and just cut a square notch out of this paneling to clear the wheel well
Here's the picture after the notch was cut out and I mounted it as far to the left as they had carpeted the wheel well.


Next Lucille and I are trying to figure out where we want to install towel racks and soap/shampoo holders in the bathroom and shower.

Tom
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Old 05-31-2011, 06:03 PM   #76
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I also reinforced the bottom of the Tub. The very first time I showered, when I turned around to rinse my back, my heels rested on the bottom of the tub near the drain and I heard a cracking noise. Thinking I cracked the bottom of the tub, I inspected it and was glad not to see any cracks. I removed the little square access panel on the side of the tub and found the tub is resting on a 1/2" (approximately) foam board that is then resting on a piece of plywood that has 2x4's as legs. I am hoping this foam board is what made the cracking sound I heard! They cut a large "U" out of the plywood down by the drain and that is why if you press (gently) with your feet or heels you will find the bottom of the tub flexes too much. With the plywood gone in this section, I simply cut 3 pieces of 2x4 about a 1/2" longer than the other 2x4's the plywood is resting on (a little longer to make up the thickness of the plywood). I then placed these 3 longer 2x4's around the drain area pressing up between the foam board and the floor of the trailer. My tub feels a lot more solid now if you happen to turn around and put the weight of your body on your heels around the drain area.

Though this is my first trailer, I kind of expected having to correct some of this stuff. Not only do they look at the most inexpensive way to make things, but often in order to keep the trailers as light as possible, the construction tends to get on the weak side. Wonder how many pounds of extra wood I will end up adding to my Grey Wolf to make it stronger?
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Old 06-02-2011, 04:56 PM   #77
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Thanks Stargazerandu. I looked at the "Condor-Biker's Friend" wheel chock. Have you mounted the brackets to the floor yet? Were you able to do it without dropping the Grey Water or Fresh Water tank? I like those types of chocks that you can roll into and they lock, but Lucille is not real big on me installing permanent metal mounting plates to the floor (I told her we can put a carpet over them). I also don't know if I want to get into removing the tanks to get to the underside of the floor about where the chock should go.

Captain Ron - Forest River has the floor plan for the 21RR on their website. It seems identical to the 19RR except with the extra 2 feet, they actually install 2 couches side by side on the same wall... "his and her" couches to crash on.

This weekend I did some modifications to my 19RR. I too found the two drawers to the right of the sink poorly mounted. The "u frame" that holds the drawer glides is just "floating" in space with only the front sides mounted. I put a 3/4" thick piece of wood between the left glide and the thin wall of the upper shelf under the sink on the top drawer and I made a 3-3/4" "leg to support the left glide on the lower drawer and screwed the leg into the carpeted wheel well. For both drawers on the right side glide, I put a 1-1/2" block between the frame and the outer wall of the cabinet. I now have two brown phillip head screws showing when you look at the side of the kitchen cabinet, but they are not too obtrusive.

I also could not understand the waste of space on the bottom shelf of the door under the sink. The "bottom shelf" (actually the floor of the trailer) had a 12" piece of paneling screwed in at an angle that really restricted what you could store down there. I removed it and could see they did not carpet the full wheel well, but the only thing I could find that they were blocking was the copper gas line going to the oven. I have put before and after pictures of the additional room I created in the bottom area inside this door.

In the before shot, you can see I moved the one screw back and just cut a square notch out of this paneling to clear the wheel well
Here's the picture after the notch was cut out and I mounted it as far to the left as they had carpeted the wheel well.


Next Lucille and I are trying to figure out where we want to install towel racks and soap/shampoo holders in the bathroom and shower.

Tom
HeyTomGrayWolf!!

Don't get that particular model Condor unit. With bolting it down, it just not a good idea because it is so close to the tank and the bolts are long and require washers and nuts. Instead, get the Condor unit that will allow you to 'chock' the bike without bolting the unit down. They have that model but only thing is it is about $50 dollars more. I cannot return mine but will see about modifying to make it work just like the 'non-bolted' unit.

Thank you for the tip on creating more space under the kitchen sink. I saw that too and wasted space came to mind as well.

As for towel holders, I bought the metal type you just hang over a door with no drilling necessary!! I still have not figured out what to do with shampoo bottles and soap in the tub. I will also look into reenforcing the tub too!!!

Tomorrow, I will be taking the TH to get warranty work done. We have an issue with the tube that goes into the fresh water tank....it moves around and that needs to get fixed. I also want to install a locking panel for the fresh water access....I don't want anyone possibly sticking something down there 'just because.' With our other trailer, we did have a locking panel that protected our fresh water tank.
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Old 06-02-2011, 05:03 PM   #78
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Well Tom, I appreciate all the info you're providing. I have yet to take my camper out due to truck issues. (just got it back from having the engine rebuilt) I am currently in my engine break in period. I hope to get too use it this weekend. It sure is nice too have this site to see what other owners are discovering and learn from it. I will add anything I discover or modify as time goes on! Thanks again everyone.
-Chip
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Old 06-03-2011, 12:09 PM   #79
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Tom, can you please post pics of how you fixed the drawers? I am taking the trailer in for warranty repair but would like to reference a proper fix so they don't just reattach a bad design....

thank you!!
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Old 06-03-2011, 02:08 PM   #80
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Stargazerandu - I would be glad to show you how I reinforced the drawers, but before showing this to a trained RV Technician, you may want to ask how they are going to fix it. They might have a kit from FR that does a better job, or a neater job (no exposed screw heads). I am not the worlds best carpenter, so I don't know if I would call mine a "proper fix". A cabinet maker would most likely laugh at my reinforcement, but here is what I did:


Here is what the two frames look like from the factory with the drawers removed. These "U" shaped assemblies only attach at the front face of the cabinet, so this frame that holds the drawer glides is free to flex up and down based on the load you put in the drawer.


On the top drawer, left side, I put a block between the frame and the side paneling of the upper shelf under the sink. I screwed into the frame from inside the cabinet through the panelling.


On the bottom drawer, left side, they do not have the paneling extend down to the bottom of the cabinet under the sink, so I took a piece of wood and screwed it right into the carpeted fenderwell and then screwed that piece of wood into the frame.


For the top and bottom drawers right side I put a piece of wood between the frame and the outer wall of the cabinet (top frame shown, but bottom is done the same way) Here I ran the screw in from the outside of the cabinet (near the entrance door to the trailer), through the wood block and into the drawer frame. This is where a good carpenter or tech may have a better way without leaving exposed screws.

(whoops, there is a 4 picture limit per message)
Here is what the outside of my kitchen cabinet looks like. Note the two exposed screw heads, but hey, at least they are brown and Lucille didn't get mad about the exposed screws!

Again, see what their solution is. Let us see pictures of what they do. If they have a nice sturdy kit that does a better job, maybe it is worth a trip to the nearest Forest River dealer and I will take mine in and let them do the "factory fix", but I am trying to avoid the fun of that!

Tom
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