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Old 06-03-2011, 02:14 PM   #81
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4 picture limit eh? I will just add another post!


Here is what the outside of my kitchen cabinet looks like. Note the two exposed screw heads, but hey, at least they are brown and Lucille didn't get mad about the exposed screws!
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:46 PM   #82
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SHOWER CADDY - here is a shower caddy we found at Target tonight. At the store we thought we liked the 3 large baskets each with a place to hang a wash cloth. This is what it looks like installed. The baskets almost look too big in the tiny shower. The box said it was good from 5' to 9', and in the 19RR you have right at 5' from the lip of the tub to the ceiling. However, when I went to compress the spring in this unit, I could not compress it more than 64" and even that was with such force I did not want to pop through the ceiling or tub. I used a hacksaw and cut 5" out of the top tube and now it seems to have "just the right" amount of compression to hold it snuggly in place, but not press through anything.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:30 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by retiredguy View Post
Hi all. I see on the FR website they now have a 21RR. Curious what everyone thinks of this floorplan. Not sure 2 couches and 2 tables is the best use of the extra space. dc
Agree! Seems they could have eliminated the overhead in the back of the trailer and put in a small dinette.

I guess I also wonder why they dont put the entry door up front? It would make sence to me when it's loaded that you would be able to use the bed/bath/fridge, if the door was up front rather than having to enter in the back and climb over/around the loaded toy......
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:03 PM   #84
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Have any of you tried out your ramp solution in loading your motorcycle into the toy hauler? I am still deciding where to buy or not on the 19RR.
thanks,
Jim
FINALLY!!!!!!
Test hopped EVERYTHING!
1.) Used the tongue jack to lift the front end and rode teh scoot up the ramp. Stuck on the diamond plate skid thingy. Stopped, stood up, even leaned the bike to the right. No go.
Back down the ramp - try something new.

2.) Use the yellow/green wheel chocks under the back end of the gate, (it takes 4 spaced evenly across the back) at the same time with the front end of the trailer jacked up. Use a ramp (I got one for $59 from Lowes and it is actually too long) The green chocks elevate roughly 4" so if you can build a 2x12 short ramp to bridge from the pavement to the ramp, its extra cheap. Another thing that might work is the ramp part of those auto drive up thingys they sell. I rolled the scoot (2002 Electra Glide Police/Standard/Classic) up the ramp, on to the trailer ramp, in to the garage space. Didn't drag a lick, piece of cake. No Jiffy-leg springs were harmed in the testing of this product.
I didn't even re-create this when I backed the bike out. Just put the green chocks under the back of the ramp with the front end jacked up and backed the bike over the lip. Cakewalk.

Cheap Lesson: Green wheel chocks, 4 @ $3.50ea, spare 2x8/10/12 ramped up to trailer ramp lip (dirt cheap): $10.00.
Not gouging the diamond plate slide thingy and ripping your kickstand spring off: PRICELESS!


Hope this helps - easy as pie using the trailer tongue jack and the cheap, green wheel chocks.

Sportster
...movin n groovin babe - down the road!
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:22 PM   #85
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HD87Sportster - Congratulations. How far up did you jack the front of the trailer? Did you feel like the bike wanted to roll back out when you got it in? I already have 4 of those wheel chocks, so I am half way there! Actually last weekend I did my first load. I put the trailer dead level on the driveway and I had my neighbor (a Harley Rider) come over just to help catch me if I had problems. Now I have a Road Star Warrior, not a Harley, but it seems pretty low slung too. I drove it up the ramp, minding not to stop with the front wheel on the ramp and the rear wheel still on the driveway (because that is the point I would have to touch "tippy toe" to hold the bike up). I continued up the ramp until the front wheel was in the trailer and got to that critical point. My neighbor was sighting down the bottom and from the look on his face I decided to stand up and at least relieve the springs from my 190 lbs and walked it the rest of the way in. All my neighbor said was... "It's probably good that you stood up and got off the saddle". So I will take that as mine will go in without any blocking, but I am VERY CLOSE. I think I will have a 2x10 and those wheel chocks just incase the campground site is not as flat as my driveway and the gate has to go down a little further.

My brother-in-law just traded his "rice burner" in for a Sportster. He has a tall ToyHauler with a lot longer ramp, so he probably won't have to worry like us with the Short Ramp 19RR.

Take Care.

Tom
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:48 AM   #86
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Wow! Just read thru the entire thread. Great stuff here!
Couple questions,
Campnqueen, do you have any pics of the screen you made for the ramp door?
HeyTom, what kind of screws did you use for the tp holder and how is it holding up?

I had ordered my 19RR from Earl at the Outpost and the same day, (March 29th) I found another dealer (ebay) was selling the 21RR.
Long story short, Earl was able to change my order and get me a reasonable deal on the power options I wanted.
Unfortunately, the factory was not able to build the trailer in the time frame we agreed to and I am due in South Carolina the end of this month for an event that has been planned since beginning of March. Earl and the Outpost issued a prompt refund of my deposit. So yes, The Outpost seems to be a great place.

I was able to find a 21RR in Iowa at Cheyenne Camping Center and arranged to pick it up a couple weeks ago. Unfortunately, I did not get all the power options I wanted. I did have them install the power tongue jack and added the spare tire. They actually welded a bracket under the back of the trailer and put in a manual winch to raise and lower the spare just like in a pickup/SUV. It has the same ” head as the stab. Jacks.

The one thing I forgot to order is the gas/electric dsi water heater…. So I have a manual lit pilot, gas only water heater. The upside, when I replace it with the gas/electric dsi unit, I can sell the current one and recover some of the costs.

I don’t have any issues with the ramp as I am loading a lifted golf cart with a roll cage on it. I actually have to get more angle to clear a 73 inch overall height through the 72” opening.

None the less, this is a great thread, I’ve learned a whole bunch and will hopefully have some things to add in the near future.

HeyTom, love the drawer bracing and the way you moved the panels for more storage!

Well, I think that post is long enough…………
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:49 PM   #87
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Again, thanks for the great suggestions in this thread.
I did the "Tom trick" under the sink today. Didn't get a huge amount of space, but figure it's good for at least another gallon of water



Also supported the back of the drawers,

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Old 06-11-2011, 03:12 PM   #88
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Again, thanks for the great suggestions in this thread.
I did the "Tom trick" under the sink today. Didn't get a huge amount of space, but figure it's good for at least another gallon of water



Also supported the back of the drawers,

Great Job!!!
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Old 06-11-2011, 04:42 PM   #89
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Hey Essness;

As far as the screws that I used to mount the TP holder, I just used the screws that came with it, minus the anchors, since the anchors are typically for dry-wall. I have found that as long as the screws are 1.0" or less, I have not found any walls thinner than that. The paneling in these trailers is pretty thin, but if you drive screws in slow and have the torque setting on your cordless drill at a minimum and go back and snug with a screwdriver, I feel the threads bite in pretty well. (I wouldn't due chin ups on anything I mount to the paneling).

I too checked out the Cheyenne Camping Center in Iowa before buying our 19RR. They do have really good prices (less than The OutPost RV), but as you mentioned, they tend to order base units with none of the added features. There is another dealer in northwest Wisconsin that has a website that lists all the options and what the list price and their price is to get some idea what the discounted "dealer" cost is on the options. The OutPost was right in line if you took Cheyenne base price and added all the options they put on their trailer, plus Indiana was a little shorter drive.

Glad to hear you found your 21RR. Ordering new Grey Wolfs does take a lot of patience. We had one on order thinking we were going to get the fake wood flooring and Earth Tan interior and after waiting over 2 months and they told us the fake wood floor was not available in 2012 models and they had still not made our trailer, we went for one with a Crimson Gold interior that Earl had on hand. I would guess a 3 to 4 month wait if you want to order a Grey Wolf from FR exactly the way you want one currently. We don't regret the Crimson Gold interior.

Tom
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Old 06-11-2011, 04:51 PM   #90
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Friends - I am not sure if everyone is interested in all our little changes and additions to our trailer and I think this post is a good "general" one for all Grey Wolf 19RR and now 21RR owners. Lucille and I continue to add little things and make more adjustments, but to keep from overrunning this thread with every little thing we are doing, I am going to start a new one. If you are interested in our continued customizations, the thread is called "Pimp my 19RR!" (like that show on cable where they customize cars called "Pimp my Ride!").

Here's a link to it:
Pimp my 19RR!

Tom & Lucille
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