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Old 06-27-2013, 08:09 AM   #11
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Location: Tulsa, OK
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The Heng flip-up plastic vent lids installed on the trailer are junk. While washing the roof last night I tried to scrub one of the vent covers. It was very brittle and cracked.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:28 PM   #12
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In order to keep the battery from discharging in storage, I've added a NOCO BLSOLAR2 solar battery charger. With the battery connected to the trailer, I'm losing 0.1 volts a day due to parasitic drain. The solar panel is laying in the generator rack on the north side of the trailer and is partially shaded during the day. I have no doubt the solar panel will be able to maintain battery voltage over the winter with the battery disconnected and better panel positioning. $21 on Amazon.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:08 PM   #13
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NOCO Solar Panel sitting in my generator rack.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #14
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5" x 5" fence post for sewer hose storage. It is painted black because most of my fairing is black. It is a bit difficult to see, which is a good thing.

Pictures of my new LED light strip will follow after it gets dark.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:12 PM   #15
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Screen door bar. No more fumbling for a way to close the door. This is an inexpensive, high value add-on.
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:18 PM   #16
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it is a bit difficult to see, but the phot below shows an Airmaxx2 vent cover in semi-transparent "smoke" color. The Airmaxx2 allows the vent to remain open even in the rain. I'm glad I have this because it covers the vent that shattered while I was cleaning it. I don't have to repair the vent immediately because I know it won't leak! Eventually I'll add at least one more Airmaxx2--I really like them.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:18 PM   #17
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For my awning lights, I added a 12V DC connection beneath the trailer. The setup includes a 12V marine-rated connection point and a marine rated fuse holder purchased from Amazon. The wiring is suitable for 15 amps, but I'm using a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder. All wiring is protected by split loom and runs inside a "C" channel below one of the water tanks. The 12V port is easily accessible but unobtrusive. It is attached to the frame just forward of the entry door. Power comes from the battery distribution block on the port (driver's) side.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:32 PM   #18
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The awning light is a 5 meter flexible LED light strip ordered from Amazon for around $10. Total power is 25 watts (around 2 amps). Basically, it is a flexible circuit board encased in a rubber protective shell. It can be trimmed to fit every few inches.

Mine arrived with a female DC connection port on one end. I soldered a matching male connection jack (available from Radio Shack) to some 16 gauge outdoor wire. The 16 gauge wire is far oversized for 2 amps, but it was what I had available! The wire terminates in a typical weatherproof 12V DC jack that I purchased at a local marine store. The 12V DC jack plugs into the 12V DC port pictured earlier.

The LED light strip has an adhesive backing which I used to attach the light strip to the awning roller. I don't know how long the adhesive will last. Because it is coated is soft rubber, I can simply unplug the light strip, remove the wiring, and roll the lights in the awning. As you can see in the photographs, I generally just loop the wire around the awning support. I remove the wire whenever we stow the awning, which requires about 15 seconds.

The female DC port is visible in the photograph showing the awning stowed.

I originally tested the light strip using a 9V battery. Most of the lights lit, but a few didn't. Once I connected directly to 12V battery power, all of the lights lit without issue. The light output is quite pleasant.
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:29 PM   #19
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LED lights

My first shipment of replacement LED lights from China finally arrived today (July 2nd). I ordered them June 17th and they shipped within 24 hours. They were definitely on the slow boat.

My trailer has three outside lights:
1) Front, large scare light with an 1156 bulb.
2) Rear, small scare light with an 1141 bulb.
3) Amber porch light with an 1141 bulb.

To replace these bulbs, I used three pure white cob-style 102-1210 SMD LED bulbs. That stands for 102 individual LEDs, Size 1210. They were $6 each on Ebay from 2011_led.

The color was bright white and not harsh. The bulbs appeared to be slightly brighter than the 1141 bulbs and not quite as bright as the 1156 bulb. If I were to buy more bulbs, I would probably buy something different to replace the 1156 bulb. I would probably use a 48-5050 flat assembly. Each 5050 LED is made up of 3 of the 1210s, so 48-5050 would theoretically be brighter than 102-1210s.
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Old 07-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #20
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LED lights--interior

For the interior lights I used a warm white 36-1210 SMD. This was almost an exact replacement for the existing 921 lights. With a color temperature of 3,000 to 3,500K it was slightly whiter than the existing incandescent lights. The LEDs appear to be slightly brighter. I used the included 3M tape and added some silicone adhesive.
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