New 2012 19WP

[Grim]

The LED panel with the adapter. The first photo is on my toolbox; the second is installed in the light fixture. There isn't much room for a larger panel.

[Grim]

The bulb on the left is the original incandescent. The bulb on the right is the aforementioned warm white LED. The photo doesn't show the light distribution. The LED has a more uniform light distribution below the light than the incandescent, but less light on the ceiling.

I am pleased with the results. I only ordered four of these for testing but will be ordering a ten-pack to replace the rest of the bulbs.

[Grim]

I just realized I don't have any exterior photos after the shower box was installed. I'll take an exterior photo sometime next week once I finish the plumbing install. The shower box is 100% installed, but I need a couple of fittings to finish the plumbing. I ordered some 1/2" pex x 1/2" pex x 1/2" NPT fittings to simplify the installation (Watts Part Number 3530B).

Installation was easy. I first marked the stud underneath the sink and drilled through to the outside to mark the first corner. I used a carpenter's square to measure and layout the size of the hole to be cut. The shower box just fit between the vertical studs. I had to move one horizontal stud downward. I also added a horizontal stud so that the box was framed in on all four sides.

I cut through the aluminum with a Dremel abrasive cutting wheel. I used a cheap vibro-cutter tool from Harbor Freight to cut the interior paneling.

The outside is sealed with putty tape and white silicone caulk. The inside is sealed with white latex/silicone caulk.

[Sockman]

I like the idea of the outside shower. Probably should have had one put in when I bought mine. Looks like a simple enough install. We have the outside spray hose, which I use quite a bit. Keep posting them pics. Looking good.

[Grim]

These are pictures of the shower box from the outside. I'm a bit concerned that the silicone caulk did not adhere well to the plastic box. I would have liked to have mounted the shower higher on the wall, but I didn't have any more clearance under the sink. I'll eventually buy a second shower mount so that the nozzle can be mounted higher on the wall while in use.

[Grim]

...because he stole my battery and battery box. After $85 at Sam's Club for a new battery, $10 at Wal-Mart for a battery box, another $60 at Wal-Mart for a large truck-bed storage box, and $15 at Lowe's for hardware and I have a lockable battery box wrapped in steel cable. I also locked down my propane tanks with steel cable.

I didn't use the mounting hardware that came with the truck-bed storage box, so I used it to keep the battery from sliding around inside the box. Because the pieces are angled it looks a bit odd, but it works. Also, the steel angle mounting brackets are not perfectly straight because I had to drill around the holes in the wire mesh.

Not shown in the picture are a number of 1/8" vent holes. The holes are a bit small, but I'm not particularly worried. If I start smelling sulfur when I open the box I'll get larger vents.

Unfortunately, I lose the use of my generator rack.

[Grim]

1) My Touch Audio DVD player is coded for the wrong region and won't play USA commercial DVDs. Edit: I upgraded the firmware and now it works correctly.

2) There is a 1/2" thick piece of plywood behind the TV that provides structural support. I don't know how the plywood is attached to the cabinet frame.

3) The DVD player is installed with 40 Hz high-pass filters on all of the speakers, which means that the bass output to the speaker is greatly reduced below 40 Hz. This is likely to protect the speakers.

4) I now know the basic routing for cable, TV, and satellite cables. I've copied the information here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tml#post415378

5) I am not impressed with the Touch Audio DVD player. I would replace it, but I really like the outdoor remote. Any suggestions?

6) I used longer screws and spacers on the TV mounting bracket to angle it slightly downward. My kids couldn't see the TV when sitting on the couch because of the viewing angle. I moved the upper mounting bracket screws outwards roughly 0.3". They could see the TV much better after the change.

[Timtation]

Originally Posted by Grim

In order to keep the battery from discharging in storage, I've added a NOCO BLSOLAR2 solar battery charger. With the battery connected to the trailer, I'm losing 0.1 volts a day due to parasitic drain. The solar panel is laying in the generator rack on the north side of the trailer and is partially shaded during the day. I have no doubt the solar panel will be able to maintain battery voltage over the winter with the battery disconnected and better panel positioning. $21 on Amazon.

I added a disconnect for my batteries after realizing the parasitic drain. Cheap, easy and effective.

[Grim]

FYI regarding the mattress: The mattress is a 3/4 full mattress. My wife and I fit on it, but we're not huge. I'm 6'2", 190#. She's 5'2 and significanty less than 190#.

The stock mattress is THE WORST mattress I've ever used and I'm ex-military. Sleeping on carpet and carpet pad over concrete would be more confortable. We bought a memory foam full mattress cover at Target for around $50 and trimmed it to fit with a pair of scissors. Previously, both the DW and I had extremities falling asleep during the night. The mattress pad greatly improved the comfort of the mattress.

We towed from Tulsa to Devil's Den state park in Arkansas. Average MPG on one tank of gas from the Arkansas/OK state line, into the park, and back to Oklahoma was ~9 mpg.

We dropped the trailer off at the local dealer for warranty repair of a handful of items:
1) Touch Audio remote is not water tight.
2) Ramp screen fell out.
3) Vent covers are cracked. They used a very low-quality plastic.
4) Door drags on the awning when the awning is fully extended.
5) Rear ramp leaks when driving in the rain.
6) Requires more than 10 gallons in the fuel tank for the tank level gauge to register.

[Sockman]

Originally Posted by Grim

FYI regarding the mattress: The mattress is a 3/4 full mattress. My wife and I fit on it, but we're not huge. I'm 6'2", 190#. She's 5'2 and significanty less than 190#.

The stock mattress is THE WORST mattress I've ever used and I'm ex-military. Sleeping on carpet and carpet pad over concrete would be more confortable. We bought a memory foam full mattress cover at Target for around $50 and trimmed it to fit with a pair of scissors. Previously, both the DW and I had extremities falling asleep during the night. The mattress pad greatly improved the comfort of the mattress.

We towed from Tulsa to Devil's Den state park in Arkansas. Average MPG on one tank of gas from the Arkansas/OK state line, into the park, and back to Oklahoma was ~9 mpg.

We dropped the trailer off at the local dealer for warranty repair of a handful of items:
1) Touch Audio remote is not water tight.
2) Ramp screen fell out.
3) Vent covers are cracked. They used a very low-quality plastic.
4) Door drags on the awning when the awning is fully extended.
5) Rear ramp leaks when driving in the rain.
6) Requires more than 10 gallons in the fuel tank for the tank level gauge to register.

This is the mattress we use and it was well worth the money.

Innerspace Luxury Products Mobile RV Mattress - Three Quarter - Furniture & Mattresses - Mattresses - Foam & Memory Foam Mattresses

Or you can get it here. I think I bought thru Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/INNERSPACE-Inn.../dp/B001660TJE

[Grim]

Thanks for the comment. The original mattress is fine now that we've added the memory foam cover.

[dsrace]

Originally Posted by Grim

With two people sleeping in the front bed and an 80F evening, it gets really hot in that area, even with the AC set at 72. With the vent pointed at the bed, it is freezing when the AC is running and hot when the AC shuts down. Next time I'll take an oscillating fan. By my wife and I are in good shape, so blubber is not an issue!

lol lol is the roof tall enough to install a 12 volt ceiling fan? I added another deepcycle batt and replaced the batt that came with it with a deep cycle and run two solar panel trickle chargers 15 watt and don't have issues leaving the batts hooked up all summer I also added a disconnect and shut them off through the winter with chargers left on. otherwise 7 days and 1 batt was dead haven't tapped the 2 together yet with it just sitting. mine is a 295 wolf pack fifth but I hear ya on the ac too!

[Grim]

Originally Posted by dsrace

lol lol is the roof tall enough to install a 12 volt ceiling fan? I added another deepcycle batt and replaced the batt that came with it with a deep cycle and run two solar panel trickle chargers 15 watt and don't have issues leaving the batts hooked up all summer I also added a disconnect and shut them off through the winter with chargers left on. otherwise 7 days and 1 batt was dead haven't tapped the 2 together yet with it just sitting. mine is a 295 wolf pack fifth but I hear ya on the ac too!

We bought a $30 oscillating fan at target that works great.

[Grim]

Latest updates:
1) I added a light over the medicine cabinet. It is near-identical to the existing lights. Both my wife and I wear contact lenses and found that the existing lights were inadequate. I ran power wiring from the power awning switch under the sink.
2) I finished the LED changeout. Other than a few issues with the little connectors it worked great.
3) I found a water leak under the sink. The plumbing is fine, but the shower faucet penetration leaks through the wall. Some caulk should fix it.
4) While looking for the water leak, I found a minor structural issue under the shower. The floor was cut out below the shower pan to run the plumbing. The builder cut too much and left a hole below the shower support. I had a leftover 5" fence post section that made a great brace.