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Old 06-21-2013, 12:52 AM   #1
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Location: Tulsa, OK
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New 2012 19WP

A couple of weeks ago I bought a new 2012 19WP. Obviously, it had been on the low awhile!

For anyone considering a 19WP, I have a few comments. I'll try and update this thread as I learn new things. Pictures will follow soon.

1) It pulls great with a 2004 Ford f150 4x4 supercrew with 3.55 gearing and 18" wheels. Power is no problem. Gas mileage from Fort Worth, Texas to Tulsa, OK was ~8.3 mpg.
2) The lower shelf in the bathroom is not very sturdy. I took the shelf out and added a brace against the wall so it can support more weight.
3) The underbody sewer hose storage is only 46" long. I'm replacing it with a 5x5 vinyl fence post painted flat black tomorrow if time permits.
4) I've added an AirMaxx 2 to the bathroom vent. The front edge of the AirMaxx 2 starts right at the edge of the curved front wall. I'll see how if the wind causes any problems with the AirMaxx 2 this weekend.
5) Currently on order: LED rope lights for the awning; LED replacement lights for the port lights and the outdoor white lights, a few test LEDs for the interior lights, a 12V socket for the LED rope lights to be mounted under the trailer, an outdoor shower, and a screen door push bar. More to follow.
6) I've added a 2.5 watt solar trickle charger. It should be enough to charge a disconnected batter, but it isn't enough to compensate for the parasitic drains inside the RV.
7) I've been running the AC off a 15 amp wall plug without an issue. The AC is nice in that the fan starts first followed by the compressor after about 15 seconds. I have the 15K BTU AC.
8) It doesn't have auto propane tank changeover and only 2 x small tanks.
(edit) 9) The table that came with the camper was HEAVY. I have two kids (5 and 9) so they can sleep on the two couches. The table is now in my attic. I'll eventually build a replacement, but for now I'm using an inexpensive folding plastic table.

I'll know more after this weekend and after I get a few more mods done!
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:22 AM   #2
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Congrats on the purchase The sewer hose holder on our 25rr was like yours; too short, so we added the 5X5 post cover & am happy so far.

It's my understanding that the automatic changeover for propane tanks has been discontinued
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:10 PM   #3
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Check out this thread for some other ideas. Welcome aboard and congrats on your new purchase.

Any 19WP Onwers?
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:51 PM   #4
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We took the camper for an overnight stay this weekend. I have some lesson learned that I'd like to pass along. I'll split these into separate posts based on topic. First, the 5 x 5 fence post idea worked well. I used two 24" Simpson Strong Tie Straps and some self tapping screws with blue Loctite to hold it to the frame. My installation replaced the existing hose holder. I made the 5 x 5 hose holder about 3" longer than the frame rails with a 1.5" extension on either side of the frame. I should have made it longer, with about 4" on the drain side and 1.5 inches on the non-drain side. I had to adjust the propane supply pipe slightly by moving one of the propane clamps from the bottom edge of the frame beam flange to the top edge of the lower beam flange. I painted everything flat black before installation. It looks great.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:54 PM   #5
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I have a few current warranty issues.
1) The "Wolf Pack" screen for the rear ramp fell off of the roller.
2) Even with ten gallons of fuel, the fuel gauge doesn't register. I know it has power because it lights up when the timer is twisted.
3) The keyless touchpad entry does not work.
4) The touch audio remote control apparently runs the batteries down very quickly. I installed new batteries last week and it worked, but now it doesn't.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:04 AM   #6
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I have a 12k/1200 equalizer 4 point weight distribution hitch I'm using. It is a bit oversized for the unit, but it works great. Some lessons learned.

1) With this particular trailer, if you turn a very short radius, the hitch actually contacts the trailer frame. I might grind about an 1/8" from the hitch to prevent this from happening. I'm sure I can do this without impacting the structural integrity.
2) I'm pulling with a 4 x 4 halfton and a standard shank size. I think it is a 6". I'm in the bottom-most hole on the shank. With the weight distribution properly adjusted for the truck, I'm about 1.5" too high at the trailer coupler. If I switched to a longer shank I could fix it, but quite frankly I don't want the jack to be any closer to the ground.
3) I was about to adjust the weight distribution such that the front fenders were 1/16" higher off the ground when the trailer was installed. That's as close as I can ever expect to get.
4) When backing downhill onto a campsite disconnect the spring bars before you back down. Backing downhill onto a level campsite that is too short for truck results in the truck pointing uphill when the trailer is near level. This massively loads the spring bars.
5) The guys at the dealership claimed they had done many of these installations. Their original settings weren't even close to correct!
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:05 AM   #7
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The water bandit is awesome. The hoses at the dump station had been ran over many times, damaging the fittings. By using the water bandit, I was able to use my blackwater flush without issue.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:07 AM   #8
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With two people sleeping in the front bed and an 80F evening, it gets really hot in that area, even with the AC set at 72. With the vent pointed at the bed, it is freezing when the AC is running and hot when the AC shuts down. Next time I'll take an oscillating fan. By my wife and I are in good shape, so blubber is not an issue!
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:08 AM   #9
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The Legend TV that came with the camper has a poor field of view horizontally and vertically. My kids can't see it when they sit on the couch. I'm going to put some washers behind the mount to angle the TV in the downward direction.
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Old 06-24-2013, 12:15 AM   #10
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We're using a Tekonsha P3 brake controller. I originally operated at a boost level of 2, but in stop-and-go traffic it caused some shudder. Basically, the trailer brakes were leading the truck brakes too much, causing the truck and trailer to "jerk" at low speeds and light braking. By running at boost 0 or boost 1, the truck brakes lead the trailer brakes and low speed braking is much smoother. As long as the maximum power is properly adjusted, boost isn't needed.
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