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Old 08-26-2015, 01:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
Good Deal,I see you installed a (MaxAir Fanmate)! Your ahead of most! Youroo!!
Holy Cow Youroo... Good eye!!! That's impressive
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Old 08-26-2015, 01:28 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by ACE110 View Post
Congrats on your new TT.

Don't wait to long on the surge protector. I did, & it cost me a TV, converter & microwave.
Thanks ACE110, I will order one right away due to your advice!
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:26 PM   #23
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New 26RR question Tires

Well I take delivery of my 26RR Wednesday after selling my Wp22 Noting the issues voiced here and those I have heard from others I am concerned about the "China Bombs". It appears the 26RR has 205 75R14 Load range C speed rating L installed x 4. Can't find the manufacturer for sure but the specs on another supposedly comparable tire list the max weight at 1764 x 4 or 7056 lbs max. Now the 26RR as listed dry as 5120 and 7715 lbs GVWR. Did I miss something? With a 900 lb bike I expect to be right around 7000 normal loading Not much margin.
To compound matters when I look up same size Load Range D the only reputable manufacture I see is Kenda.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:45 PM   #24
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New 2016 Grey Wolf 22RR Model Question

They depend on the fact that 800-900lbs is actually on the hitch ball so not on the tires. 🏽
I too have searched and Kenda seems to be a good choice. The alternative discussed in other posts is to change the rims to 15" to give a wider choice with higher load ratings. Whatever you do put a TPMS on. Mine has been very good. They don't catch every blow out before it happens but they give you a fighting chance.
BTW: I have had mine weighed and was pleasantly surprised that I am well within specs and that will be true even when I add the bike in. The only weight approaching the limit was the hitch weight but the bike in the rear will decrease that somewhat.
Enjoy the trailer, it's a great choice. IMHO.


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Old 10-01-2015, 04:07 PM   #25
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Hey Guys, I'm going to winterize the trailer this weekend and have a couple of questions. I've looked through the winterize topic threads but didn't answer a couple of questions that I had. Specifically for the 22RR since it's a new floor plan. I imagine it's a similar setup to other Grey Wolf RR's.

1) Is the water pump underneath my bathroom sink? I guess I'll have to take a few screws off to find out this weekend. Does the pump come prepared to winterize, does it have a hose I can unclamp to stick it in an Anti-Freeze bottle like my old trailer? Or do I have to buy some items to do it?

2) There is a valve underneath my fresh water tank that is leaking. Is this my fresh water drain valve??? Kind of in an awkward place since I have to crawl under behind the tires to get at it. My old trailer had a spout on the side of the trailer, it was much easier. There also seems to be a leak coming from the valve. I've tried tightening it as much as I can (by hand, don't want to involve tools as I don't want it to break) but there seems to be a slow drip. As you can see in the picture, the left dongle is starting to drip. What is the other dongle beside it? I assume the one on the very right (the soft rubber one) is the fresh water overflow. But what is the other one for?

3) Are the "low point" drains, the red and blue lines, just used to drain the hot water tank lines? Do I still need to unscrew the bolt on the outside of the hot water tank as well as opening up the low point drains?

Thanks everyone!!
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:14 PM   #26
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I'm sure someone will chime in, but here's what I do. I don't pump the lines full of antifreeze. I blow the lines out. I drain the fresh water tank and leave the plug out during the winter. I bypass the hot water heater, and then drain the tank as well (taking out the plug and just leaving it set in there loosely all winter). I bought the little $10 air hose attachment and screw it into the city water connection and then make sure all the faucets are blown out with the air compressor. The only antifreeze I use is poured down the sinks, shower, and toilet. Never had a problem. Just remember to blow out any outside shower or hose.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:33 PM   #27
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Hey Sockman, I've read that in a few places. Does it matter that I live in Canada where the temp can get below -30 Celsius (-22 F I think). Do the lines not require an anti-freeze liquid to keep them from cracking? Or is it that if there is water, it can expand and crack the pipes?

If I was to do it that way, I would just need a air hose adapter for the city water intake, oh, and an air pump...
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:40 PM   #28
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I don't live in Canada, but it gets below freezing here, and stays there for several months. As long as there is no water in the lines, there should be no need to worry about them. You just have to make sure that all air is blown out. Lots of folks like the extra security of having antifreeze in the lines, and that's cool, I just find it unnecessary. And yes, you'll need an air compressor. Don't forget to blow the lines out of the shower and the toilet as well. It's pretty easy once you've done it once. And when spring rolls around, it's as easy as putting some plugs back in, and it's ready to go. Hopefully some folks from further up north will respond and confirm this is ok for your area.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:42 PM   #29
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Just attended a seminar by a GeneralRV expert and he said blowing out the lines is not the best way as it does not fully clear the water out of the pump, and too high a pressure can ruin some of the valves in the system. He prefers antifreeze sucked in by the pump but not put in the tank. I haven't yet lived through a winter with an RV but my solution this year is to take it to Florida.


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Old 10-01-2015, 06:39 PM   #30
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My dealer blows them out and showed me how to do it. You just gotta lower the line pressure on the compressor.
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