Pimp my 19RR!

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by essness

Thanks Clint,
I stole the idea from someone else But, I really like it. It's honestly not inconvienent where I have it mounted, the picture may make it look that way.......

Scot,
I think plagiarism and the borrowing of ideas is expected here! It is funny after already making mods to the 21RR, I see other people doing the same things. Today, I removed the overhead bunk... can't stand the "low" ceiling over the queen like it was... too hot and cramped. And, an almost total rebuilding the queen bed structure to allow a full size queen to include insulation and making a door to the under bed storage space (facing down the hall). I also haven't decided how thick the bed surface (plywood) needs to be, but that 5mm paneling doesn't cut it.... especially considering the little staples were not holding it together... My last camper was a Trailmanor, which was like a Rolls compared the the Cherokee... the 21RR didn't even have a TP holder! I am disappointed and shocked at the poor construction of the21RR.

[heytomgraywolf]

Originally Posted by essness

Tom,
I went out to take a look, my inverter is under my frige and the access for my furnace is next to it.........I really didnt want to get in to all that today Sorry.
When I pull some of that stuff, (cause I want an outlet there) I'll take a look for the blue wire.

Scot;
Thanks for taking the time to help. The good news is the picture of the wiring area is NOT inside the camper, but on the outside of the camper on the side behind the fridge, there is a white, plastic access panel. Just turn the two black knobs with a screwdriver or coin 90 degrees ccw and it lifts up from the bottom and comes right off. This area near the outlet is to the left side when looking in this exterior access panel.

No hurry. Thanks again for offering to look at this small (24 gage?) blue wire.

Tom

[Sockman]

Originally Posted by heytomgraywolf

Scot;
Thanks for taking the time to help. The good news is the picture of the wiring area is NOT inside the camper, but on the outside of the camper on the side behind the fridge, there is a white, plastic access panel. Just turn the two black knobs with a screwdriver or coin 90 degrees ccw and it lifts up from the bottom and comes right off. This area near the outlet is to the left side when looking in this exterior access panel.

No hurry. Thanks again for offering to look at this small (24 gage?) blue wire.

Tom

I got a similar toy hauler. If I can remember, I'll pop the back off and take a pic.

[essness]

Originally Posted by heytomgraywolf

Scot;
Thanks for taking the time to help. The good news is the picture of the wiring area is NOT inside the camper, but on the outside of the camper on the side behind the fridge, there is a white, plastic access panel. Just turn the two black knobs with a screwdriver or coin 90 degrees ccw and it lifts up from the bottom and comes right off. This area near the outlet is to the left side when looking in this exterior access panel.

No hurry. Thanks again for offering to look at this small (24 gage?) blue wire.

Tom

I like learning new things Yes Tom, I have the same blue wire that goes nowhere.
It's just hanging there.

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by essness

I like learning new things Yes Tom, I have the same blue wire that goes nowhere.
It's just hanging there.

I remembered to check mine, too. Same thing, just hanging there with a bit of heatshrink on the end. I looked at the schematic, it says its a testpoint. Probably for the tech to clip his meter on when he is testing or repairing the unit.

Looks like you're GTG, Tom.

[heytomgraywolf]

Thanks Scot and Rod for checking! Glad to hear I didn't accidentally pull it loose from something. Just saw it after moving things around and was conserned I pulled it off. That's great that you can read those schematics Rod!

Tom

[WolfWhistle]

I've been getting ideas... maybe too many (whew!), but have some items finished and wanted to jump on the bandwagon... I think my 21RR is nearly the same as the 19RR. When I bought the 21RR, I couldn't find a good used 19RR. If I can figure out how to post pictures I'll do so. First thing I ripped out the bunk bed... then ripped out the original bed framing... remade it 78 inches long, insulated the WH and made a proper wall for it, covered it with 1/4" plywood, which was covered with corduroy. Then I made doors for the OH cabinets, the little cabinet, and a new access to the storage under the bed. I made the door frames from very old cherry, but used some of the fake cherry.... I also bought and attached a very nice screen for ramp opening... upgraded TV mount to allow tilt... Oh, and installed a flip up wheel chock and heavy duty tie down points. I am sacrificing one of the tables to make a flip up table top (right of sink) and also a flip down work surface over the cook top. I am going to make or buy braces to stabilize the jacks and make a 5" sewer hose holder. I want to replace the hard-as-a-board short queen with a standard mattress... thought of the Aero Bed from BBB, but am hesitant because of leaking that some people report. I have heard the 9" model is very comfortable.

[WolfWhistle]

I forgot to mention... my bike won't load using the ramp like it came... so I am having a 4' extension made out of aluminumrod-grate... still have to come up with a good way to support the end of the ramp 12" above the ground. I have see some flip down jacks similiar to the legs on the bench seats, but they do have to be strong enough. I was wondering if anyone has done such as this?

[hd87sportster]

WW - check the "Calling All.." thread on the last page. The outpost RV dealer posted some pics on ramp loading of bikes., The last post is how I did it.
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...-10149-16.html

Helps quite a bit and doesn't require raising the ramp 12" off the ground either.

Sportster
...and the parts stay on the bike!

[mack63]

WolfWhistle nice work. I'm picking up a 21RR on Saturday and my first mod. will be more tie downs and a flip up wheel chock. Please tell me how you added those. Did you cut the membrane underneath? Also, could you post pics of the screen door you added?
Thanks,
Mike

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by mack63

WolfWhistle nice work. I'm picking up a 21RR on Saturday and my first mod. will be more tie downs and a flip up wheel chock. Please tell me how you added those. Did you cut the membrane underneath? Also, could you post pics of the screen door you added?
Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike,
Sorry this is long winded...
The chock I have is the 18ga 21" model the tie-downs are rated at 6000#, but the limiting factor will be attachment method (the floor, the screws, etc.). In my case, I only haul a 660# Kawasaki Vulcan. Installing the chock: First, yes you have to cut into the membrane, but its no sweat. More about that later. I measured every hole 10 times before I drilled the first hole! You are limited how far forward you can install the chock, unless you want to remove the fresh water tank.... I didn't... and of course where between the joists the pieces will fit, as well as making it work for the toy you are going to haul. Joists are 2" x 3"s and run north and south... not a factor, but joist farther towards the rear are doubled up. Assuming our units are the same size, I can give you exact measurements if you need me to. What I did to start was to remove the most forward / left original tie down. It is just screwed into a floor joist (they all are... not all perfectly centered on them)... you will find the white silicone holds very well. I am sure the original tie downs would hold good enough, by they way, I just like the idea of steel plates and bolts through the floor, plus I put the tie down where they need to be. The tie downs I bought came with a steel plate, but had to local purchase 3/8" x 2" carriage bolts and stop nuts. So, after removing the tie-down I mentioned, I stuck an "skinny" 18" drill bit (you can use anything that is long and pointy enough) through the membrane so I could see it underneath and take measurements from it. From underneath I determined that I could cut the rectangle hole (for the chock) something like 20 inches forward of the drill bit. Finding the joists is easy, just push up on the membrane... they run north and south, by the way, and some farther towards the rear are doubled up. If memory services there is one at the wheel well... with 9" clear space between that one and the next (moving to the right)... then another 9" space... the center line space is 14" and it repeats on the right side. I mounted the chock into the 14" center space but oriented as much to the left as I could and still work the washers and nuts. It is as far forward in that 14" space as possible since there is a steel cross member there. What I did was cut the membrane and insulation like a capital "I" in all three locations. What I should've done was cut the membrane back about 2 or 3 inches back from the steel cross member from side to side then down each side just past where the tie downs will go leaving about 3 inches of the membrane to tape to. You "could" only cut the insulation at each location (I did), but better to cut it where you just made the large "C" opening in the membrane. The tie downs are centered into the 9" spaces... the right one you can see in the picture, which should have been farther right, but the cabinet is in the way. The left one isn't shown, but is in the 9" space between wheel well joist and the next one. I determined that for my bike the tie down should be 17" back from the center of the front wheel to put a slightly forward pull against the chock. So after I determined where everything should go, I drilled up from the bottom for each hole... marked... drilled and cut based on those holes. Had DW work the top while I worked the wrenches from below. Putting the membrane back together: I found that 3" Gorilla "duct" tape holds very well. Just as a precaution I screwed a couple of fender washers into joists through the membrane and insulation... near the tape patches as possible. I am attaching a rough spread sheet drawing of the floor and pictures of the screen.... I can zip it down and get another picture today... the screen came from Welcome to Garage Door Screens his website had issues, but the screen (with 3 zippers) is prefect and delivered ahead of promised date!

[brookside]

Nice work - I wrote a thread about install

[brookside]

Nice work - I wrote a thread about installIng tie down points in this exact manner here a month or so ago - not sure if it helped you? Did you go with the backing plates for the mounts?

[brookside]

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tle-22215.html

[Ljqvgp]

I too added the fence post storage. Here's mine on our sun seeker 3120ds. Also using pool noodles added head protection

[mack63]

WolfWhistle thank you for the excellent description and diagram. I will be starting this mod. next week.

[brookside]

Spare tire hoist install:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ong-23081.html

[Gquist]

I picked up my 25rr Thursday from the Outpost RV, hauled my bike down in the back of my truck down there to pick it up and then loaded it into the camper to meet some friends for some riding on the way home, I made this chock to hold mine as I knew I would not have time or tools for the very nice flip up style chock.
I made this because it takes the load of holding the bike upright away from the floor hooks, all the tension from the tie-down straps is put back into the metal bar, the campers floor hooks just keep it from sliding around and I glued a truck mud flap on the bottom of the plywood to protect the flooring and allow it to stay put.
It worked out good, I had to pass through the rough interstates in both Chicago and the Twin Citys and it really shook stuff around.

[tracer2011]

Nice!

[campnqueen]

wow! You people scare me with your awesome ideas! and y'all are so darn handy too! JEALOUS!!