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Old 06-12-2011, 12:14 PM   #11
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This morning's project was to work on a motorcycle wheel chock for my RoadStar Warrior. Like Stargazerandu, I don't want to attempt drilling through the floor for both aesthetics and concern with hitting the fresh or gray water tanks. While I really like the BoltItOn.com solution and how it uses the factory eyelets to mount the chock, the $300 price tag and the $60 shipping is just a little hard for me to swallow.

I had a 34" x 48" piece of 3/4" plywood that was painted and carpeted in my garage that was from my dad's old pickup truck that he had a topper on and used as a shelf in the back of his truck. With it being carpeted on one side, I figured it was perfect to put on the "floor side" of my plywood chock base. I put the 48" dimension between the closet next to the couch over to the kitchen cabinets. I then pushed the plywood until it rested in the corner between the closet and the bathroom wall. Since the fridge sticks out slightly, the 48" width will be too much and you will have to cut back 5-7/8" by 3 or 4" in. The carpeted piece I used already had a notch for the sidewall of the pickup that it was used in, so I cut a generous portion out to clear the fridge and removed the notch that was there.

I figure since the straps going down to the eyelets will be pulling the motorcycle forward and the wheel in the chock will be pressing forward, the edge of the fridge and the wall of the bathroom will keep the plywood from sliding forward and will spread the load out over a large area.

Next I cut 2 rectangular holes out for the eyelets to be accessed. These too when the straps are in them should help keep the carpeted plywood resting on the floor of the trailer from moving around.

I used the carpet remains from cutting off the section for the fridge and contact cemented carpet on all the edges of this plywood so that carpet would be resting against any of the cabinets and walls so they don't get marked up.

Now, once my wheel chock arrives, I will have to test load the bike to determine where I want to mount the chock onto this plywood base and then use carriage bolts from the underside (carpeted side) and make sure they are recesses (or covered with more carpet after installing) so that the heads of the bolts don't rub and tear up the floor.

Below are some pictures of the plywood base. More pictures to follow once my wheel chock comes in.

Here is the top side with it in the trailer. Note the base rests against the bathroom wall and edge where the fridge sticks out.


This is a picture of the bottom side showing the 3/4" plywood completely covered in carpeting (including edges) for resting on the floor of the trailer:
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Old 06-12-2011, 04:41 PM   #12
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This afternoon, I decided to create more counter space since the 19RR doesn't have that much. I saw this thread on this forum to get the idea: Suburban Stove Top - Flimsey at best

I did find an 18"x22" cutting board at Wal-Mart for $25, but I tried a smaller one (15"x21") that was $15. I ended up taking that one back since you really need 18" to cover the stove front to back. I ended up finding a larger one than the $25 one at Wal-Mart when I went to Bed-Bath-and-Beyond. This cutting board is 18"x24" and is $30, but BB&B always has those 20% OFF coupons so it was actually $24 (less than Wal-Mart!).

I bought two packs of closet rod mounts at Wal-Mart ($0.97 each) so the whole project was $26 plus tax.

Here are the white plastic closet rod holders from the hardware section in Walmart:


Two of the rod holders (one in each package) are completely round (the side you put the rod in first) and two have the tops notched out of them (the side you drop the rod into). I put the two round ones upside down on the rear of the stove, sliding them inwards till they touch the vertical wires in the grill of the stove. Then I took the two with notches in them and put them all the way on the front of the stove sliding them outward until the wires were converging to the point they would not slide out any further:


With them upside down and where you want them on the stove, I put duct tape on the back of them (making a loop so it is like double sided tape... or use double sided tape). Then carefully set the cutting board down, exactly where you want it (this is the trickiest part). Since this cutting board was 24" wide, I rested the one side against the wall of the fridge which helps me align it when putting it on. After pressing down on the cutting board to get the tape to stick, lift the cutting board straight up and flip it over.

You can then screw these rod holders into the cutting board to permanently hold them in place (I used 5/8" screws so they did not come through the other side of the cutting board). I also used a pencil and drew circles around them and lifted them up and removed the duct tape before screwing them down. This is what the bottom side looks like. These rod holders can be "feet" if you want to take the cutting board off and use it on another table:


The way the feet are staggered, I think it would be fine leaving it on while traveling. It really doesn't move anywhere. However, since the stove is so close to the tank on my bike, I don't think I will leave it on for our first trip next weekend with the bike. I would hate to prove myself wrong and find a big dent from a cutting board in my gas tank. I think our second trip, when I am not taking the bike, will be the test run to see if the cutting board stays in place going down the road.

This is what the final product looks like. Now we have more counter space and a huge cutting board!
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Old 06-12-2011, 06:08 PM   #13
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I love the cutting board on the stove, Tom! I may have to try that on our 19WP. I'm pretty sure the stove is the same.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:47 PM   #14
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Today I added a shelf in the bedroom. There is a nice outlet up by your head when laying in bed that would be good for charging cell phones, but there is no place to put your phone. I found some finished shelving material at Home Depot (it is not good Formica, just vinyl coated particle board that is made by Rubbermaid). It is in the window and flooring section of the Depot and it is really for building your own shelving and bookcases. I cut the board down to 5" wide because I did not want to hit it getting out of bed and I made the length 28" (There is room for about 36", but again, I did not want to be hitting the corner of the shelf getting in and out of bed).

Now Lucille and I have a place to lay our cell phones and charge them at night and Lucille also says her coffee cup will rest up there once I get up in the morning and fix the coffee and bring her coffee in bed!??! Sound like someone is awfully spoiled for camping!

Here is what it looks like.

Very nice!!
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:30 PM   #15
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Nice work Tom I cant keep up
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Old 06-13-2011, 02:53 PM   #16
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Lucille just had to have a trashcan in the bathroom. This is the smallest one we could fine and found it at Wal-Mart ($10). You kind of have to put it in next to the toilet by feeding it in sideways from the floor, head first and then standing it up once it is in the corner. It does work and you won't have to worry about securing it before driving down the road (it has no place to go). When stepping on the pedal to open the lid, you kind of have to make sure it is rotated just right or the lid hits the side of the toilet preventing it from opening.

If anyone else finds a smaller one, we might still be interested since this one is so tight, but being chrome, it matches our TP holder, our Shower Caddie (both shown in this thread: Calling all Cherokee Gray Wold 19RR owners) and our new towel rack (above).

Trash Can Lid Closed:


Trash Can Lid Opened:
Yeah, I saw that trashcan in Walmart too. And, Lucille, you are not the only one who would like a trashcan in the bathroom!!!
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:57 PM   #17
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We used a thin drink pitcher less the lid... was cheat at Wally-mart and fits the space just fine!
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Old 06-13-2011, 06:58 PM   #18
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Very nice!!
All of our outlets in the bed birth are on the ceiling...where is this one?
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:37 PM   #19
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Camping Queen - this outlet is on the left side of the bed on the wall of the bathroom up by your head. Maybe they lowered the outlet down here since in the 2012 and late 2011's the bunk above the queen is solid, comes all the way across and does not fold up. I think you have the bunk that folds and creates an overhead cabinet. Since we don't plan on sleeping anyone up on the bunk, I liked the folding bunk, but I think it was not real solid/strong and maybe a few people tried sleeping someone up there that was too heavy and FR decided to make it stronger, but permanent and no ability to make it a cabinet.

The electrical outlet at the foot of the bed is still in the ceiling along with the cable connection for putting a TV in the bedroom area.
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Old 06-13-2011, 09:08 PM   #20
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So glad my buck bed folds up... I love the extra space for storing bed linens! Could not imagine doing without it!!
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