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Old 05-11-2012, 09:50 AM   #251
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cutting into the floor

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Originally Posted by mack63 View Post
WolfWhistle nice work. I'm picking up a 21RR on Saturday and my first mod. will be more tie downs and a flip up wheel chock. Please tell me how you added those. Did you cut the membrane underneath? Also, could you post pics of the screen door you added?
Thanks,
Mike

Hi Mike,
Sorry this is long winded...
The chock I have is the 18ga 21" model the tie-downs are rated at 6000#, but the limiting factor will be attachment method (the floor, the screws, etc.). In my case, I only haul a 660# Kawasaki Vulcan. Installing the chock: First, yes you have to cut into the membrane, but its no sweat. More about that later. I measured every hole 10 times before I drilled the first hole! You are limited how far forward you can install the chock, unless you want to remove the fresh water tank.... I didn't... and of course where between the joists the pieces will fit, as well as making it work for the toy you are going to haul. Joists are 2" x 3"s and run north and south... not a factor, but joist farther towards the rear are doubled up. Assuming our units are the same size, I can give you exact measurements if you need me to. What I did to start was to remove the most forward / left original tie down. It is just screwed into a floor joist (they all are... not all perfectly centered on them)... you will find the white silicone holds very well. I am sure the original tie downs would hold good enough, by they way, I just like the idea of steel plates and bolts through the floor, plus I put the tie down where they need to be. The tie downs I bought came with a steel plate, but had to local purchase 3/8" x 2" carriage bolts and stop nuts. So, after removing the tie-down I mentioned, I stuck an "skinny" 18" drill bit (you can use anything that is long and pointy enough) through the membrane so I could see it underneath and take measurements from it. From underneath I determined that I could cut the rectangle hole (for the chock) something like 20 inches forward of the drill bit. Finding the joists is easy, just push up on the membrane... they run north and south, by the way, and some farther towards the rear are doubled up. If memory services there is one at the wheel well... with 9" clear space between that one and the next (moving to the right)... then another 9" space... the center line space is 14" and it repeats on the right side. I mounted the chock into the 14" center space but oriented as much to the left as I could and still work the washers and nuts. It is as far forward in that 14" space as possible since there is a steel cross member there. What I did was cut the membrane and insulation like a capital "I" in all three locations. What I should've done was cut the membrane back about 2 or 3 inches back from the steel cross member from side to side then down each side just past where the tie downs will go leaving about 3 inches of the membrane to tape to. You "could" only cut the insulation at each location (I did), but better to cut it where you just made the large "C" opening in the membrane. The tie downs are centered into the 9" spaces... the right one you can see in the picture, which should have been farther right, but the cabinet is in the way. The left one isn't shown, but is in the 9" space between wheel well joist and the next one. I determined that for my bike the tie down should be 17" back from the center of the front wheel to put a slightly forward pull against the chock. So after I determined where everything should go, I drilled up from the bottom for each hole... marked... drilled and cut based on those holes. Had DW work the top while I worked the wrenches from below. Putting the membrane back together: I found that 3" Gorilla "duct" tape holds very well. Just as a precaution I screwed a couple of fender washers into joists through the membrane and insulation... near the tape patches as possible. I am attaching a rough spread sheet drawing of the floor and pictures of the screen.... I can zip it down and get another picture today... the screen came from Welcome to Garage Door Screens his website had issues, but the screen (with 3 zippers) is prefect and delivered ahead of promised date!
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:51 AM   #252
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Nice work - I wrote a thread about install
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:52 AM   #253
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Nice work - I wrote a thread about installIng tie down points in this exact manner here a month or so ago - not sure if it helped you? Did you go with the backing plates for the mounts?
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:55 AM   #254
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Mods cont - Anchor points, coffee maker, and why does my air conditioner rattle?
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Old 05-11-2012, 12:52 PM   #255
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I too added the fence post storage. Here's mine on our sun seeker 3120ds. Also using pool noodles added head protection
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Old 05-11-2012, 02:15 PM   #256
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WolfWhistle thank you for the excellent description and diagram. I will be starting this mod. next week.
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:24 PM   #257
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Spare tire hoist install:

Wolfpup 17RR Spare Tire Install/Hoist Under Chassis pics and instructions - long
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:13 PM   #258
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I picked up my 25rr Thursday from the Outpost RV, hauled my bike down in the back of my truck down there to pick it up and then loaded it into the camper to meet some friends for some riding on the way home, I made this chock to hold mine as I knew I would not have time or tools for the very nice flip up style chock.
I made this because it takes the load of holding the bike upright away from the floor hooks, all the tension from the tie-down straps is put back into the metal bar, the campers floor hooks just keep it from sliding around and I glued a truck mud flap on the bottom of the plywood to protect the flooring and allow it to stay put.
It worked out good, I had to pass through the rough interstates in both Chicago and the Twin Citys and it really shook stuff around.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:29 PM   #259
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Nice!
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:54 PM   #260
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wow! You people scare me with your awesome ideas! and y'all are so darn handy too! JEALOUS!!
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