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Old 07-29-2012, 09:12 PM   #361
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Hi All,
I was just wondering if anyone ever had any problems with the single strap adequately holding the couch up against the wall. I plan to use my toy hauler garage to haul giant scale aerobatic model airplanes. The wings come off but the fuselages are about 10 ft long and will be fastened to the floor in the trailer. They are expensive toys but are very light in weight and relatively fragile as they are made from balsa and plywood. The couch coming loose and falling on top of a fuselage would be disasterous and costly. Any need to better secure the couch to the wall? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Mike R.
I've towed my 21RR about 3,500 miles since I got it earlier this year and haven't had a problem with the straps holding the bench seats up. If you're worried about it, though, a rubber tie down strap attached to one of the legs and then up to the overhead storage shelf might not be a bad idea.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:53 PM   #362
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WolfWhistle I like to take that bunk out to was it easy ??
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:01 PM   #363
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Branson

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Toby, We are leaving for Branson August 15th... maybe by then it will be even hotter ;-). What can you tell me about Branson, since we have never been there. I see a Branson Shenangans (sp?) and American's Best campgrounds close to downtown. We have a 21RR and I did quite a few mods, most of which is detailed on this site. What I did with the so called bunk bed... I just removed it. Way to stuffy for me. Lots more air getting up there now. I have a 12vdc/110vac fan to help, as well. When traveling I do add a temporary brace to be sure the front doesn't collapse... I don't know if that would happen, but reasoned the bunk gave the front a lot of stiffness. Let me know about Branson, I really appreciate it.
I don't know what I love most about Branson but I think I'll retire there when / if the time comes for me. This is the first time we took our 19RR up there (got it last October). When I take a camper down there I stay at the Wilderness Campground (SDC). When I just ride the bike down there we stay at the Compton across the street. I think it is quieter is all. PM me with your interests (as to not detract from this thread much more) or start one up. There's tons to do there in Branson. There's something for everybody. I usually end up there at least twice a year.

As far as the bunk goes, I still think I'm going to build a door between the bathroom and the left side of the bunk and just keep it for storage. No way anyone is going to sleep up there. I just got to build up enough nerve to do it is all. Right now my 19RR is in for warranty work. I'm having some issues with the ramp door. I love catching up on this thread though and I do like the trailer. It's perfect for what we need to go camping and my F150 pulls it without issue even through the hills around Branson.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:20 AM   #364
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Arlenart;

Here is how I would go about it, but there are a lot of others on this thread that are much better carpenters than me (I have seen their work!). Measure from the top of the wood surface of the bunk to the ceiling (I realize that is sort of a moving target with the radius of the front of the camper. What you are looking for is the amount to cut off from the bunk (from the edge back) to be equal to the height between the top surface of the bunk to the ceiling. It might take measuring a few spots till you find that spot, but that is where your cut line should be. That way, if you put 3 hinges or so across the cut you make, when you fold it up to make the cabinet wall, if the "wall" is slightly higher due to the hinge, you can always trim a little back from your cut and leave the "finished" edge of the bunk in tact where it will meet the ceiling.

Once you have that , you could cut some holes out for the cabinet doors and buy the doors from Forrest River. (if you and the wife sleep below on the queen, you can have fun with the person on the bunk buy opening the cabinet doors and kicking their mattress from below. Also might want to get some firm door clasps for those cabinet doors or someone sleeping above might push the mattress down enough to cause the doors to swing open and bonk the folks on the queen below!)

I wasn't thinking about making the cabinets "convertable" like the 2010 and 2011 units. I was thinking of just making them permanent cabinets, but maybe Lucille will go for a convertible version so we would still have the option of a bunk when and if there are grandkids. I guess we would just store that cheap mattress for the bunk and only fold it down and bring the mattress when we know it would be used.

OK... who wants to cut first?!? I went first on reinforcing the kitchen drawers only to watch others after me with more skill do it a much better way!

Tom
I'm going to attempt to figure it out today. I'm with you. I want be able to fold it up for for maybe a grandkid. I'll post what I find out!
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:08 PM   #365
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Electrical System/Battery Charger

I'd be interested in hearing thoughts people might have about the electrical system on these trailers. When I'm dry camping, I find I have maybe 48 hours battery charge with limited use of lights, pump, etc. Then I need to hook up to the generator to charge up. This isn't acceptable.

I've done some reading and some seem to recommend dual 6 Volt batteries hooked up in series to extend the useful life of the batteries. However, they ain't cheap and I already have one 12 volt battery, so I'm thinking about adding a second deep cycle 12 volt battery hooked up in parallel.

Additional reading suggests that the chargers on most trailers are not 3-stage chargers that are needed for optimal battery charging and maintenance. Instead, they have simple bulk chargers that aren't good for the longevity of your batteries.

So the first question: Does anyone know what brand converter/charger Forest River puts in these trailers? Knowing that would be a good starting point.

Assuming the charger is a cheapo single-stage charger, I may do one of two things: (a) install a 3-stage charger on the tongue. Disconnect the battery (batteries) from the trailer and charge using this charger. See this link for an explanation. Or (b) upgrade the on-board converter with a 3-stage Intellipower converter that will charge and maintain the batteries the way they should be taken care of. Link Here.

Ideally, my goal is to preserve my batteries (these suckers can be expensive) and to increase the time I have power when I'm off the grid. Ultimately, I may decide to add a solar panel to the roof for charging, but that's a way's off.

Thoughts anyone?
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:19 PM   #366
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Just do the solar, you'll thank-yourself.

I went with two 12V, however, I picked up two new, slightly larger ones from Wal-Mart. I spent about $80 or so on each one. I couldn't justify the cost of two 6V, and I could only find one place that sold them at any where near a resonable cost. I'm sure you get what you pay for on these, but my Wal-mart ones came with a 2 or 3 year replacement/5year pro-rated, which was double the warranty of the 6V. Now, I've only had those batteries for about 6 months, so we can talk again in a year and see how they've held up.

That said, I'm completely happy with mine.

I don't know if you 'REALLY' need to have matching specs/age/type batts, but I had a use for the smaller battery that came with the trailer for another project.

I could barely get through the night with the one smaller battery, now with the two larger ones, I never see more than one light off on the little meter panel. Couple hours after I get up, the panels have charged everything back up without having to mess with anything. We run the heater all night, watch movies, or play the stereo until the very wee hours...

Not sure about your particular charger, but I'm pretty sure mine is a 3 stage as it came from FR.

I guess, what I'm saying is that with going from a group 24 to a couple of group 27's with cables and boxes, can be done for $160 and probably triple your run time.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #367
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Mine came with one 24 series Interstate deep cycle marine battery. I installed 2 Trojan SCS 225 batteries. They are big and will just barley fit with some modifications to the boxes. The capacity on these two is slightly better than two 6 volt 105 batteries. Personally I like the two 12 volt setup better. If by chance you are to loose one battery you are still good to go. I have had very good luck with the Trojan batteries.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:25 PM   #368
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If by chance you are to loose one battery you are still good to go. I have had very good luck with the Trojan batteries.
Yep, totally forgot about that one. That was another nice benefit.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:28 PM   #369
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I'm sure the Trojans have a great reputation for a reason...

We had a utility cart, spent over $900 on Trojan batteries, and a year later, with moderate use around the house, they were toast.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:17 AM   #370
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Just do the solar, you'll thank-yourself.
Rod, can you share a link or two about the solar panels you used?

I'm in the Inland Northwest - Lots of sun here, so solar is a good way to go.

I'm thinking the way I approach this is:

1) Get a second 12 volt battery. Not sure it has to match the existing;

2) Confirm that the charger in the trailer is a 3-stage. If not, I need to do something different;

3) Get a solar panel that I can wire into the batteries for charging.
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