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Old 09-22-2012, 03:31 PM   #391
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WolfWhistle was it hard to take the bunk bed out ??

Sorry for the long delay in answering PeteG. I don't get on the forum like I used to. Keep in mind they built the "claustrophobic test chamber" before the walls went up, so it is a bit of a challenge, but if I did it, so can anyone handy with DET cord and dismantling a ship-in-a-bottle :-). It was a while back and I am old, so let me think...

First is to get the flimsy mattress out of the way (I won't hold back how I feel!). The head protector pad-thingy is held by 1/8" square drive screws. Both valances come out easily, one nearly fell off. Take of the flimsy-rattly blinds to "protect" them. Next is the trim at the corners; just pry it off... next is the paneling. I saved it, so I was careful to get both panels out in one piece (one pieces??). Since the wood butchers don't use glue and the staples are pretty much a joke, both panels came out by prying with a flat bar between 2x2s and panel. It just takes time and care. The front of the top panel was hardest since you have to have 5' arms to reach the corner and the front is angling in. Like I said, it was built before the walls so now you are taking out a panel bigger than the opening that it has to fit through on the way out. Be careful not to scrub/scratch the paneling on the walls. Once I had both panels out, the 2" x 2"s were cut with a sabre saw and chisels. The 2x2s on the walls are the hardest to cut through, the trick is to cut almost all the way through without cutting into the wall. I think I used a small Japanese saw as well. When you pry between 2x2 and wall, get a block of wood to protect the wall. A 1x4 about a foot long was what I used. Have I mentioned it was built before the walls :-), some of the screws come in from the outside and you can't get to the heads; for those I cut off the screw as flush as possible to the wall; then using a punch drove just below the surface.

I used the dark paneling for flat door panels and also ripped several 2" strips and fastened horizontally where the bunk 2x2s were to cover the screw holes and to "dress" it up. I don't think it looks bad, actually. Then, reinstalled the corner trim; reinstalled the valances... which I screwed to the wall (drilled pilot holes angling down at the top) into wall studs. It only takes one at or near each end to hold them. I kind of like the valances even if they are el-cheapo.

Before I took it out on the highway, I woke up one day thinking that the bunk was used by the factory to stiffen the front of the trailer and with out it, the front could collapse under extreme wind pressure. I don't know if it could happen, but to prevent it and to give myself piece of mind. I bought a pickup truck load bar from Harbor Freight; fastened a length (about 3') of 5/4" deck board to one end and a length of it (18") to end with larger tube and ratchet. I slip the short board vertically down between the mattress at the bathroom corner; then let the long board rest horizontally across front wall where the bunk used to be (where my trim is); push it tight and ratchet it snug. Again, I am not sure if it does anything, but makes me feel better, because you know the bunk had to adding a ton of strength to the front of the trailer.

Sure the bunk added some storage, but is worth losing it, because no more claustrophobic stuffy sweaty bed. No more hitting ones head. I wonder if FR's idea was that the head of the bed should be towards the hall, but there is no way, this old man can get into bed that way. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-22-2012, 04:50 PM   #392
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Hey Tom, I've been reading 'you' for quite a while it seems. I have not seen the 2013, but you are right, I thought about it one day last month while volunteering in Georgia... I thought about blocking the rear facing vent so the other would have more flow... then thought, vents on both end, it should be half way towards the front. I didn't think about the AC located in wrong place until then. I built a shelf next to the so called wardrobe and sat a small 12/110 volt fan on it... to augment air flow. Like you I might be freezing. I didn't make storage where the bunk used to be... I ripped it out, gracefully as it were... or I hope! I have pictures, which I think I posted. But, here they are. I also wonder about the shower wall being vinyl on gypsum only. I would like to go to a thin white plastic... not melamine to make it 'hold up', hopefully. Oh, also I bought a Simmons Beauty Rest full queen since pictures were taken.
Note self: the paneling in my 1RR isn't vinyl on gypsum (I must have been drinking too much) it is vinyl on wood paneling. And, I think the bunks should have 2 straps each. No problem so far, but having one hook seems weak. I read where some have two straps and some trailers got shorted (???). Also, I need to reattach the paneling on the bottom of couches, the staples are coming out, so the paneling is starting to fall off. I have camped for 80 days this year and although I have made changes and could easily create a better floor plan, I am keeping the little 21RR. It does what I need.
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Old 09-23-2012, 09:07 AM   #393
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WolfWhistle thanks for the write up I like my 21 RR wish it came in a 30 but the 22 is fine for now. Wife and I went to the RV show in PA we did not find anything that we wanted so we will keep the 22 for now. Some day we will go bigger and I am looking foward to seeing more up grades from everyone thanks again..Pete
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:19 AM   #394
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Another Bike Rack option on the "RR"

Getting back from a week long trip to NC and Virginia camping along the Blue Ridge Parkway with the Motorcycle and the Bicycles, I was getting tired of squeezing the two bikes between the folded up couch and the motorcycle and trying to keep them strapped to the couch and not falling on the bike.

Decided I just wanted to keep the bicycles outside of the trailer. Though this setup might not be as slick as welding a receiver hitch on the back bumper and using a hitch type bike rack, I found this 3 bike rack from Reese that adjusts well for flat back mounting (like for a minivan or SUV).



Of course the down side will be I have to take the bicycles off and remove the rack before dropping the gate and unloading the motorcycle, but the rack has nice quick release straps and comes off quick. Plus with it resting on the spare tire I mounted to the door, it seems to sit securely.

Just another option, I am sure some won't care for this idea, but here it is for what it is worth. Now on trips we don't take the motorcycle, I don't even have to fold up the couch or load anything large in through the rear ramp.

Tom
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:54 PM   #395
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I think you'll be happier with that setup and the little bit of extra work at stops, then you would be to come in and find scratches all over you scooter.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:11 PM   #396
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I picked up my 25rr Thursday from the Outpost RV, hauled my bike down in the back of my truck down there to pick it up and then loaded it into the camper to meet some friends for some riding on the way home, I made this chock to hold mine as I knew I would not have time or tools for the very nice flip up style chock.
I made this because it takes the load of holding the bike upright away from the floor hooks, all the tension from the tie-down straps is put back into the metal bar, the campers floor hooks just keep it from sliding around and I glued a truck mud flap on the bottom of the plywood to protect the flooring and allow it to stay put.
It worked out good, I had to pass through the rough interstates in both Chicago and the Twin Citys and it really shook stuff around.
Any measurements on this? Would like to copy the idea for our 25RR
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:13 PM   #397
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Decided I just wanted to keep the bicycles outside of the trailer. Though this setup might not be as slick as welding a receiver hitch on the back bumper and using a hitch type bike rack, I found this 3 bike rack from Reese that adjusts well for flat back mounting (like for a minivan or SUV).



Tom
Is that an awning or add a room on the back of the hauler? If so care to share some details?
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:53 AM   #398
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No, that's just my cover. I keep a cover over my trailer when stored beside my house. It has zippers in the corners and in 1 or 2 places up the sides, so you can unzip, roll-up and velcro the cover out of the way if you want to get access to it.

Tom
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:05 AM   #399
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Any measurements on this? Would like to copy the idea for our 25RR
It is stored inside the camper for the winter and is un-access able due to the way they park the campers tight together in the building, the wheel choke is 2" angle iron with a 1" flat spacing them apart, the square tube is2" the plywood base is the same size as a truck mud flap, can't remember off hand, if you still need the dimensions come spring just message me and I will post them for you,
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:11 PM   #400
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It is stored inside the camper for the winter and is un-access able due to the way they park the campers tight together in the building, the wheel choke is 2" angle iron with a 1" flat spacing them apart, the square tube is2" the plywood base is the same size as a truck mud flap, can't remember off hand, if you still need the dimensions come spring just message me and I will post them for you,
I will & thank you very much
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