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Old 03-16-2013, 12:07 PM   #461
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R, I havnt replaced mine yet but will in May. Let me k ow how it works for ya.

D, its really odd, all the wear is on the inside edge of the tires, all 4 and worse on the non loaded side.......
Put Goodyear Marathon radial tires on and there is a big difference in the way it tracks and stops. Can barely tell it back there once you get up to speed. The old tires were badly cupped and worn out. I will stay with the Goodyear brand. As for the alignment I will get that checked out later this month or next. Just looking at the position of the tires on the trailer looks to be in alignment and straight. But that is just visual.
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Old 03-16-2013, 03:17 PM   #462
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Put Goodyear Marathon radial tires on and there is a big difference in the way it tracks and stops. Can barely tell it back there once you get up to speed. The old tires were badly cupped and worn out. I will stay with the Goodyear brand. As for the alignment I will get that checked out later this month or next. Just looking at the position of the tires on the trailer looks to be in alignment and straight. But that is just visual.
Thanks for the follow up Rick
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:55 AM   #463
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Put Goodyear Marathon radial tires on and there is a big difference in the way it tracks and stops. Can barely tell it back there once you get up to speed. The old tires were badly cupped and worn out. I will stay with the Goodyear brand. As for the alignment I will get that checked out later this month or next. Just looking at the position of the tires on the trailer looks to be in alignment and straight. But that is just visual.
Rick, you can check alignment yourself to see if it is in the ballpark; to see if you need a professional alignment. You can measure the distance from the front center of the tongue. I fixed a pipe vertical (plumb) so my reference didn't move; then using a buddy, measured from there to each side, using the same point... I picked a point on the brake drum. Once you do that, it is easy to measure between axles. Make sure the tape isn't twisted, because we need an accurate measurement.
My front axle was off about a 1/4" from one side to the other, but I was able to loosen the U bolts and slide one axle forward and the other back a little to get them right. The distance between axles also needed a little tweaking. Torque them back down... I decided 90lbs was about right. I put everything back together, dropped it back down and hooked up. I pulled it out and back in, so everything settled. The next thing you can do, with the trailer on level ground, is using a straight edge (I used a very true 2x4) and hold it against the tandem tires, horizontal with the ground and spanning across both tires. You should not expect the board to hit evenly on both tires, front and rear; rather you should find that the front of tires should point in "pigeon toed" (positive toe-in). But only slightly. More than a few degrees is a problem. You might have to sit it across the front then the rear tire to see if it looks right. If, for instance, the board hits the front of the tire with the rear not touching the board, the toe-in is negative (toed out); this is also a problem. I stood back and looked to see if the top of the tires leaned in (camber). They looked vertical to me. I am not aligning it, just seeing if it needs one. I would still like to have it done, but have yet to find a place close by.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:27 AM   #464
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Thanks for the info. Will give it a try. Does anyone know how thick the wood floor is? I have a specialized Harley wheel chock that gets mounted to the floor by using wood screw inserts. You drill a hole the size of the insert and then screw them into the floor. Then you bolt the wheel chock to the inserts. The inserts stay flush with the floor. I just don't want to drill through the floor and maybe hit the water tanks.
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:17 PM   #465
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I have a 2010 gmc 1500, I put ride-rite springs in the back, added a programmer for towing. Huge difference in ride and shifting points. The truck already had a factory tranny cooler and trailer break.
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Old 03-23-2013, 08:07 PM   #466
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I have a 99 ultra, and mine is lowered 2in, what I do is raise my jack in front, just about as high as it will go and lower my legs, front and rear, open my door, and drive the bike in, strap it down and lower it then hook it up to truck
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Old 04-01-2013, 09:05 AM   #467
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I have gotten a lot of great ideas from this forum. I worked all day this past Saturday on improving on some ideas I got.
1)I put small bubble levels on the outside corners.
2)Took the plastic battery holder out of the metal frame area purchased a larger battery holder.
3)Placed a 2x10 into the battery frame area used a piece of L shaped iron cut 15" drilled 3holes into iron then screwed the iron to the lumber under the frame area to hold the lumber down.
4)Screwed anothe piece of 1x6 treated to the L shaped iron thus making a shelf kinda thing.
5) I then screwed the battery holders large and small to the new wood.
6) Using the larger battery holder I attached the battery cut off switch to the side of it. Purchase a ground cable for battery. I put the battery in this holder and attached cables put holder lid on and now all I haveto do is turn the key to the cut off switch to disconnect.
7) I then attached a 7way connector under the 1X6 thus having a place to hold the trailer end while not attached to truck.
8) I placed a jumper wire to the 7 way connector and my running lights will come on when I turn the switch on.
9)Greased wheel bearings.
10)Put wheel covers (hub caps) on all wheels.
11)Put whole wheel covers over tires.
12)Put spare tire wheel cover on.
Things yet to do: Make a awning protector out of vinyl gutter and attach, put roof vent cover on. make ramp longer. So far I have had a blast with this toy hauler and have not left my property. LOL.
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Old 04-01-2013, 10:05 PM   #468
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Originally Posted by RKelly056 View Post
I have gotten a lot of great ideas from this forum. I worked all day this past Saturday on improving on some ideas I got.

7) I then attached a 7way connector under the 1X6 thus having a place to hold the trailer end while not attached to truck.

.
Things yet to do: Make a awning protector out of vinyl gutter and attach, put roof vent cover on. make ramp longer. So far I have had a blast with this toy hauler and have not left my property. LOL.
Now #7, that is a good idea...
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:18 PM   #469
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Bike Loading

At the end of last season I trying a new trick to help with the ramp height/angle loading issues. I took my service ramps out and placed them behind the rear wheels of my truck and then backed the truck onto the ramps with the 19RR hooked up, this raised the tongue and lowered the rear of the trailer to about 16" off the ground and greatly reduced the ramp angle. Using this method means having to pack the ramps along for the trip, but made loading much easier. It is the same effect as raising the front jack and using the rear jack to brace the rear of the trailer. I found it to be less work and faster, besides not putting wear and tear on the front jack.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:42 AM   #470
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I was actually toying with that idea too. I can currently clear with my bike but its within one inch so a slight incline can make or break it.
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