Pimp my 19RR!

[Toby]

[QUOTE=WolfWhistle;205314]

Originally Posted by Toby

Toby, this is my ramp. I still want a better support for the ramp when loading, plus I need some taller jack stands when camping to use it for a deck. I thought of putting my grill out on the ramp extension. Also is a picture of the bedroom with bunk removed. The wood support is what I use to steady up the side steps so not to shake the trailer as much.

It might just be an optical illusion but the ramp in the first photo doesn't look the same in the other two photos. It looks very similar to mine though except the hinge is a little different and the jack stands vs. dock bumpers. I'd sure like to know how this door is assembled because I can notice a seam down the middle of the door on the inside (right where a bike would ride up). I don't particularly like that as my bike is probably around 900 lbs plus me. Still I'm well within the weight limits posted on the door.

I also noticed you're missing the entire bunk over the bed. That looks nice open but it also takes from the overhead storage space. It also prevents you from doing the very extensive remote control modification.

I'm still thinking I will cut a hole in the bathroom wall and make a towel closet over the bunk. I'm just trying to get up enough nerve to see what's in that wall. Hopefully not too much. I can tell there is a stud right down the middle of the wall so hopefully to the right of that I can do something.

I'm also going to do something with the under the bed storage. I don't think I'll make the bed longer because we fit the table down there and put the TV on it and it works very well. Right now I have my spare tire in there and I sure hope I never need it because it's almost a two person job to get under there. More wasted space IMHO.

I wish I had an out building big enough to put my trailer in so I can make all these modifications over the winter. I sure as hell don't want to take my trailer out of service to make some of these modifications during the summer.

[heytomgraywolf]

I was thinking about removing the bunk since Lucille and I are empty nesters with the kids in college or beyond until Lucille was showing my mother the trailer and when my mom saw the bunk she said "Oh, that will be nice for the grandchildren !". We don't even have any grandchildren, just a grand-dog and now Lucille says the bunk has to stay!

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

The truck: at was a a job site and a rush job (2 man) came up in a neighboring town, so the other tech picked me up and I rode with him (you can probably finish the story now!); anyway, we hit several other stops during what turned out to be a long day. So, we get back to the warehouse... while walking to the back door, I noticed my parking spot was empty. Being tired, I first thought maybe the boss took it to be serviced, or something... finished our paper work and it hit me... I had left it at that first job. The company was closed, but it was locked up inside fenced area. Next morning my boss asked me where my truck was. We acted dumb for a little while (actually it wasn't an act! LOL). So, I got a ride out to get my truck.
I do a little dry camping, every now and then, so I am going to upgrade to LED interior lights. What LEDs do I need?... Or, which ones did you use? Those under-body lights are plum purdy!

You know how often that happens with my boss? He wants to ride around and hang out with us, so that means we drive, he relaxes. His truck got locked in a parking garage over a three day weekend once upon a time.

On the LEDs, this is how I did it:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ion-21380.html

But there are quiet a few threads out there. I must say, after all that, I haven't ever seen my trailer batteries not full or charging... Even after the last 3 day trip, they were as full when we left as when we got there.

[SlowerThanU]

Although modifications to these two areas have been done I hadn't seen them done exactly like I did so I thought I'd post them up.

First the cabinet over the sink area which as we all know is a pain in the butt. Found these spring loaded supports at Camping World for $5.79 in store.

Plastic Spring Loaded Cabinet Door Support - Rv Designer Collection H277 - Cabinet Hardware - Camping World




Next I tackled the under bed storage area. I thought about doing the door on the end like most here but given the depth of the space I felt it would still be a pain to get in and out of. Opted for a 120lbs, 20" long gas prop instead. I also picked this up at Camping World as well as the mounting brackets needed.

Gas Prop 20in 120lbs - Rv Designer Collection G29 - Installation Tools & Supplies - Camping World
Gas Prop Bracket, 1in Offset - Rv Designer Collection G845 - Installation Tools & Supplies - Camping World




The gas prop worked perfectly! It takes about 5lbs of lift to open it up, even with a full size queen mattress on it. It also gives enough lift that getting in and out of it is now a breeze. You can kind of see how I mounted the brackets, I did have to put a small section of 2"x4" behind the bracket mounted to the bed frame for reinforcement.

Total cost in store was $31.19 and about an hour to install it all. Let me know if you have any questions!

[WolfWhistle]

[QUOTE=Toby;205530]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

It might just be an optical illusion but the ramp in the first photo doesn't look the same in the other two photos. It looks very similar to mine though except the hinge is a little different and the jack stands vs. dock bumpers.

I'd sure like to know how this door is assembled because I can notice a seam down the middle of the door on the inside (right where a bike would ride up). I don't particularly like that as my bike is probably around 900 lbs plus me. Still I'm well within the weight limits posted on the door.

I also noticed you're missing the entire bunk over the bed. That looks nice open but it also takes from the overhead storage space. It also prevents you from doing the very extensive remote control modification.

I'm still thinking I will cut a hole in the bathroom wall and make a towel closet over the bunk. I'm just trying to get up enough nerve to see what's in that wall. Hopefully not too much. I can tell there is a stud right down the middle of the wall so hopefully to the right of that I can do something.

I'm also going to do something with the under the bed storage. I don't think I'll make the bed longer because we fit the table down there and put the TV on it and it works very well. Right now I have my spare tire in there and I sure hope I never need it because it's almost a two person job to get under there. More wasted space IMHO.

I wish I had an out building big enough to put my trailer in so I can make all these modifications over the winter. I sure as hell don't want to take my trailer out of service to make some of these modifications during the summer.

The ext. is 48" wide and 35" long. The ramp at the bumpers is supported 11" off the ground. The way I bolted it on with the 1/4" plywood limits to about that. When down, the plywood rests on the seal of the door.

When brand new, it looked seamless, but I've noticed the anti-skid mat is puckered in the center running long ways. I do not know how or what it is constructed of. I suspect wood is in there somewhere.

I agree that you should not cut that stud.

It was just to tight and hot for me. Half of the overhead storage is not accessible anyway.

I will probably put the spare under there. But, do have room in the truck. Maybe put an underbed box over the spare, packed who knows what. I will then have about 14"H x 26" wide x 25" deep left for another plastic bin. Screw eyes on each side just behind the door to allow a strap (or chain haven't decided) to keep that stuff from sliding and opening the door.

Unless it really is bothering you, do the work when it gets cold and enjoy your summer, for sure. I bought and erected a metal 16' by 36' carport with open ends and sides for mine. Mostly to protect it from the sun. We seldom have enough cold to worry about freezing, but you have to watch... it does happen. I have access to the water heater, which has bypass, but I will just blow out all the water with air pressure. I had to do that last winter on the trailer I sold. We had below freezing for over 24 hours, and I sure didn't want anything broken.

I bought a Simmons Beautyrest mattress yesterday... amazingly I found a sale at our local mattress store (wink, wink)... its 10" thick... however it was quite heavy and a real handful to get into "bedroom" by myself. It will take 2 men and a boy to get it out when (not if) it ever needs to. Maybe I will just sell the trailer if it ever does. But, OH, Boy(!) what a difference! The "mattress" I took out of it, if you want to call it that, should be banned. I wish I knew how to ship back to the abyss from whinse it cameth.

[WolfWhistle]

Hey Slower,
Nice work and pictures,
Clint

[SlowerThanU]

Originally Posted by Toby

I'm also going to do something with the under the bed storage. I don't think I'll make the bed longer because we fit the table down there and put the TV on it and it works very well. Right now I have my spare tire in there and I sure hope I never need it because it's almost a two person job to get under there. More wasted space IMHO.

Take a look at the gas prop I installed on the under bed storage area, solves the problem of wasted space. I also store our table up front at the end of the bed with my portable grill on top of it. I don't plan to extend the bed framing but I will be replacing the plywood with a piece about 4" longer so the full size queen mattress I put in doesn't hang over. With the lid in the up position there's still plenty of room to slide the table and grill in. The gas prop was $22 total including the brackets, definitely worth it to get at that space.

[rodcop9405]

Just finished a few more modification to our new home away from home. I updated the TV to a 24" and relocated the factory mounting bracket to except the new TV. I did that with a piece of 1/2" plywood that I covered with the wood grain paper from the factory. I would have like to have gone bigger, but with the larger ramp door the space was just too small.

I completed the changes to the under bed storage access by adding two doors that I bought from the factory. I went with two doors, one in front and one in the side at the back of the space, to make it easier get to the items inside. I also added a light to help with finding things and plan to also add one to outside storage box.

Although I must say really do like the hydraulic lift that SlowerThanU posted, might have gone that route if I had seen it prior to ordering parts.


Great work Slower!!

[rodcop9405]

Then because I didn't like the way the mattress sagged next to the wall (no support from the factory) I added a section of plywood on a piano hinge that lays on a rail that I mounted to the front wall.

I also put a door on the cubby space below the TV.

It’s getting better and better

[SlowerThanU]

Originally Posted by rodcop9405

Then because I didn't like the way the mattress sagged next to the wall (no support from the factory) I added a section of plywood on a piano hinge that lays on a rail that I mounted to the front wall.

I also put a door on the cubby space below the TV.

It’s getting better and better

I like the light in the storage area, nice touch!

[apollumi]

K, where did you get the doors at? Did you have to stain them?

[rkswyo]

I bought my doors from Forest River. They come stained to match your existing cabinets. I also bought all my hardware from them as well. Doors run about $23 each.

[rodcop9405]

Yep, that's where I got my doors from also and they were $23 each plus the hardware. I also purchased some of the wood grain contact paper from the factory. Use the contact info below that rkswyo provided to us in an earlier post, he got things started for me.



Jamie Tetzlof - Grey Wolf parts - 260-593-2366

[Sockman]

Do you contact the factory direct or go through a dealer? Just curious, as they seem to want you to go through the dealer, and they usually don't have much of a clue. Thanks

[rkswyo]

Originally Posted by Sockman

Do you contact the factory direct or go through a dealer? Just curious, as they seem to want you to go through the dealer, and they usually don't have much of a clue. Thanks

You do not have to go through the dealer. Contact Jamie Tetzlof - Grey Wolf parts - 260-593-2366
The parts will be shipped directly to your door. Jamie was very knowledgeable and very helful.

[heytomgraywolf]

Originally Posted by SlowerThanU

Although modifications to these two areas have been done I hadn't seen them done exactly like I did so I thought I'd post them up.

First the cabinet over the sink area which as we all know is a pain in the butt. Found these spring loaded supports at Camping World for $5.79 in store.

Plastic Spring Loaded Cabinet Door Support - Rv Designer Collection H277 - Cabinet Hardware - Camping World




Next I tackled the under bed storage area. I thought about doing the door on the end like most here but given the depth of the space I felt it would still be a pain to get in and out of. Opted for a 120lbs, 20" long gas prop instead. I also picked this up at Camping World as well as the mounting brackets needed.

Gas Prop 20in 120lbs - Rv Designer Collection G29 - Installation Tools & Supplies - Camping World
Gas Prop Bracket, 1in Offset - Rv Designer Collection G845 - Installation Tools & Supplies - Camping World




The gas prop worked perfectly! It takes about 5lbs of lift to open it up, even with a full size queen mattress on it. It also gives enough lift that getting in and out of it is now a breeze. You can kind of see how I mounted the brackets, I did have to put a small section of 2"x4" behind the bracket mounted to the bed frame for reinforcement.

Total cost in store was $31.19 and about an hour to install it all. Let me know if you have any questions!

Slower - great work with the 20" shock on the bed storage. I think I am going to do this, but I have a couple of questions that might make it easier for me.

First, I can see where the base of the shock mounted in regards to the bed framing and your reinforcement (assuming they build all these 19RR's the same!), but can you give me the dimensions from the rear (in respect to the trailer) and passenger side (of the trailer, not the bed!) of the plywood "lid" to the point where you mounted the upper support? I am assuming that dimension for the shock end to end would be equal to the length of the shock in the compressed position.

Second, I see that the bracket you listed looks like the bracket that is mounted to the base of the bed lid, but what about the other end of the shock. Did you have to buy that bracket too, or does the shock some with that bracket? Thanks!

Tom

[SlowerThanU]

Originally Posted by heytomgraywolf

Slower - great work with the 20" shock on the bed storage. I think I am going to do this, but I have a couple of questions that might make it easier for me.

First, I can see where the base of the shock mounted in regards to the bed framing and your reinforcement (assuming they build all these 19RR's the same!), but can you give me the dimensions from the rear (in respect to the trailer) and passenger side (of the trailer, not the bed!) of the plywood "lid" to the point where you mounted the upper support? I am assuming that dimension for the shock end to end would be equal to the length of the shock in the compressed position.

Second, I see that the bracket you listed looks like the bracket that is mounted to the base of the bed lid, but what about the other end of the shock. Did you have to buy that bracket too, or does the shock some with that bracket? Thanks!

Tom

Hey Tom,

Got to actually put the storage area to use at a campsite this weekend, man it's awesome having access to that space finally.

So the ball of the bracket that the gas prop mounts to is 29.5" from the forward edge (closest to the propane bottles) and about 4.5" in from the right edge. Here's the thing, I don't have a lot of confidence that these things are all built the same so some trial and error is probably in order.

Basically what I did was pick the best spot I could find to mount the strut to the bed frame which you can see in the picture. I measured the collapsed length of the strut at 12 inches. I put a pencil mark on the outside of the bed frame where the ball mount was, then measured down 13 inches and made another mark. With the lid closed, transfer that mark to the bottom side of the lid. This is where the ball needs to end up to ensure maximum extension and thus the best access. Now simply measure in far enough from the edge of the lid to ensure the strut will clear the bed frame when you close the lid.

As for the brackets they come as a set including mounting screws, pretty slick. Feel free to message me if you need more info and good luck!

[Terier]

My TT is at the dealership getting pimped (while the awning is being serviced). After seeing someone here post pics of their mod of adding spring loaded door supports I decided to add to all my OHCs. This means I will be able to search for items with both hands without getting a bruise from the door closer.

Those door supports looks easily enough to install I do know my limitations and will stick to selecting dish towels & pot holders.

I love this thread - great ideas!

[Smithee]

Got a question for the folks who haul motorcycles in the Toy Hauler, particularly the heavier ones.

How do you load the bike? Do you ride it up the ramp? Get half dozen people to help push it up?

My Victory Vision tips the scales around 900 lbs and I'd sure hate to have it get away from me when loading. There's a lot of plastic on the bike to get smushed up in a loading (or unloading) mishap.

[SlowerThanU]

Originally Posted by Smithee

Got a question for the folks who haul motorcycles in the Toy Hauler, particularly the heavier ones.

How do you load the bike? Do you ride it up the ramp? Get half dozen people to help push it up?

My Victory Vision tips the scales around 900 lbs and I'd sure hate to have it get away from me when loading. There's a lot of plastic on the bike to get smushed up in a loading (or unloading) mishap.

Since ground clearance will also be an issue for you I'd highly recommend walking it up under power while straddling the bike if at all possible. This will allow you to maintain positive control over the motorcycle left to right, keep your weight off the seat for increased ground clearance and allow you to use the engine to do all the heavy lifting. With that big V-Twin you should be able to lug it up the ramp barely over idle just feathering the clutch. I've used this method several times with big touring bikes that have much higher seat heights than your Vision and it worked great. Good luck!