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Old 09-18-2012, 10:07 AM   #11
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What about a Hi-Lift Jack? Raise it till it's level, block it and you are through. Carry the jack with you when camping, it works as a winch also should you get stuck.
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Old 09-18-2012, 10:21 AM   #12
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He uses the tongue jack to unhook, just crank it up higher and then use the stab jacks.
I understand what you are saying as I've had to do the same thing before. He seems to be trying to avoid jacking the trailer up, supporting the front(no matter the method), adding blocks, and then jacking it up again- then reversing the process when he hooks back up. It would still be a little work, but I thing using something to raise the rear of the tow vehicle would be quicker- but you are right that your method would be better than what he is currently doing. Obviously a jack with enough additional lift would be great, but I'm not sure he's gonna find that- depends on how much extra lift he needs.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:12 PM   #13
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So the idea is use like a car ramp under the rear tires of my Suburban then block the trailer?

Knew I should of taken a picture of when I'm trying to set it up in the driveway. Always in a hurry to unhook because I'm blocking the street.
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Old 09-18-2012, 12:39 PM   #14
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I personally don't like the idea of ramps under the rear tires of the TV, when trying to push a TT up a hill. I would opt for an alternative. I think your best bet is still raise camper with tongue jack to release TV, run stabilizer jacks down to support TT, raise tongue jack and block, lower tongue jack to level and lower stab jacks help support. Sounds like a lot to do, and I've been in your situation, but I never liked the idea of my tongue jack being fully extended. Another thing I would always do was to chock the trailer tires and shift TV into neutral, slowly let off brake, and let the chocks take full weight of both TT and TV, then unhitch.
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:22 PM   #15
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I wasn't sure if the stabilizer jacks would handle the weight by themselves. I could try that. Sounds like it would be easier than using my floor jack. Plus the jack only travels 19 inches and I need more than that. I don't like the tongue jack being fully extended either.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:53 PM   #16
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I thought about ramps under the back of the Suburban but then when you went to hook it up again wouldn't you have to back the Suburban backwards up the ramps and position it under the hitch?
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:21 PM   #17
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I thought about ramps under the back of the Suburban but then when you went to hook it up again wouldn't you have to back the Suburban backwards up the ramps and position it under the hitch?

Yes. Maybe make a mark at each of the 4 corners of each ramp so you can get them in the correct place each time?

Edit:

I was thinking more along the lines of a 2x12 on top of and secured to a longer 2x12 with an angled cut. You could set it up where you would be going up 1.5" initially, then back a few more inches you'd hit board 2 and go another 1.5". This is assuming 3" would be enough additional lift. If not, you could go to a third board, but each additional step increases length and weight of the assembly.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:50 PM   #18
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Sounds to me you better have more than wheel chocks holding the trailer back. Or you could have a truck camper situation.
If you are having to jack the front as high as you are wanting to, you might need to find a place that is a little more level. Just doesn't look safe to me.
That's my .13(allowed for inflation).
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:20 PM   #19
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Put a jack under the rear pumpkin of the truck. Jack up the truck, block up the trialer hitch. Release the hitch lock and drop the truck!
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Old 09-18-2012, 05:52 PM   #20
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Could you not cut the back of the driveway down to make it more level? It would be a lot to work but it would make for a safer situation.
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