Trailer Jack

[Electra glide]

I have the 21RR and my driveway is sloped so it's hard to level when I park there. I would like input on a heavy duty electric jack to replace the stock hand crank. I need one that will lift the front fairly high. Sorry I don't have exact height I need available right now but jack fully extended and at least 12 inches of board under it isn't enough. Any recommendations?

[TURBS]

They make a foot extension that pins on, I believes gives you a 6" rise .
Look here.
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...Jack_Foot.aspx

[Electra glide]

I thought about that but I need to take a picture of when I park the trailer. The Suburban is level but the tt is at an angle so my jack is very close to the ground. Currently I have to park, unhitch, drive away and let hitch fall, then use a floor jack to lift up front of tt, put more blocks under stock jack. Not an easy process.

[dustman_stx]

Maybe use blocks or get some ramps to back the TV wheels onto so that the rear of it is elevated when unhooking allowing more blocks to initially be placed under the jack?

[Jestercyco]

Electra glide,
I have the same issue at my house! I think my drive way has a little more drop than yours. My procedure was almost the same as you are having. I bought the Husky Brute # 87247 electric jack. It has a movable foot that you can add about 9" down. It is 4500 #'s because I have a heavy TH @ 1400's tongue weight. I bought it through Amazon.com for about $200.00 and free shipping. i hope that will help you out.
Jester

[TeresaInCAL]

I've used a concrete pier : Mutual Materials from The Home Depot - Model#: M1212POSM001
When at home to hold the jack, very sturdy. Home depot has them 8" tall. Combine that with the 6" extension, and there you go.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Electra glide

I thought about that but I need to take a picture of when I park the trailer. The Suburban is level but the tt is at an angle so my jack is very close to the ground. Currently I have to park, unhitch, drive away and let hitch fall, then use a floor jack to lift up front of tt, put more blocks under stock jack. Not an easy process.

Why unhook by running the tongue jack down as far as it will go, then run the stab jacks down and then retract the tongue jack and put your blocking in? Wouldn't need the floor jack.

[dustman_stx]

He seems to be saying that there isn't enough distance between the bottom of the jack and the ground to get enough lift, so offering different options of WHAT to place between the bottom of the jack and the ground isn't going to help. Seems to me he has 2 options- either get a jack with a higher maximum lift height(his original plan) or use something to get the initial tongue height of the trailer higher allowing more blocks or whatever to be placed under the jack initially, e.g. use blocks under the TV rear wheels(my suggestion).

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by TeresaInCAL

I've used a concrete pier : Mutual Materials from The Home Depot - Model#: M1212POSM001
When at home to hold the jack, very sturdy. Home depot has them 8" tall. Combine that with the 6" extension, and there you go.

Just make sure you put a plate of either wood or metal to protect the concrete pyramid.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by dustman_stx

He seems to be saying that there isn't enough distance between the bottom of the jack and the ground to get enough lift, so offering different options of WHAT to place between the bottom of the jack and the ground isn't going to help. Seems to me he has 2 options- either get a jack with a higher maximum lift height(his original plan) or use something to get the initial tongue height of the trailer higher allowing more blocks or whatever to be placed under the jack initially, e.g. use blocks under the TV rear wheels(my suggestion).

He uses the tongue jack to unhook, just crank it up higher and then use the stab jacks.

[comfun1]

What about a Hi-Lift Jack? Raise it till it's level, block it and you are through. Carry the jack with you when camping, it works as a winch also should you get stuck.

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

He uses the tongue jack to unhook, just crank it up higher and then use the stab jacks.

I understand what you are saying as I've had to do the same thing before. He seems to be trying to avoid jacking the trailer up, supporting the front(no matter the method), adding blocks, and then jacking it up again- then reversing the process when he hooks back up. It would still be a little work, but I thing using something to raise the rear of the tow vehicle would be quicker- but you are right that your method would be better than what he is currently doing. Obviously a jack with enough additional lift would be great, but I'm not sure he's gonna find that- depends on how much extra lift he needs.

[Electra glide]

So the idea is use like a car ramp under the rear tires of my Suburban then block the trailer?

Knew I should of taken a picture of when I'm trying to set it up in the driveway. Always in a hurry to unhook because I'm blocking the street.

[AquaMan]

I personally don't like the idea of ramps under the rear tires of the TV, when trying to push a TT up a hill. I would opt for an alternative. I think your best bet is still raise camper with tongue jack to release TV, run stabilizer jacks down to support TT, raise tongue jack and block, lower tongue jack to level and lower stab jacks help support. Sounds like a lot to do, and I've been in your situation, but I never liked the idea of my tongue jack being fully extended. Another thing I would always do was to chock the trailer tires and shift TV into neutral, slowly let off brake, and let the chocks take full weight of both TT and TV, then unhitch.

[Electra glide]

I wasn't sure if the stabilizer jacks would handle the weight by themselves. I could try that. Sounds like it would be easier than using my floor jack. Plus the jack only travels 19 inches and I need more than that. I don't like the tongue jack being fully extended either.

[comfun1]

I thought about ramps under the back of the Suburban but then when you went to hook it up again wouldn't you have to back the Suburban backwards up the ramps and position it under the hitch?

[dustman_stx]

Originally Posted by comfun1

I thought about ramps under the back of the Suburban but then when you went to hook it up again wouldn't you have to back the Suburban backwards up the ramps and position it under the hitch?

Yes. Maybe make a mark at each of the 4 corners of each ramp so you can get them in the correct place each time?

Edit:

I was thinking more along the lines of a 2x12 on top of and secured to a longer 2x12 with an angled cut. You could set it up where you would be going up 1.5" initially, then back a few more inches you'd hit board 2 and go another 1.5". This is assuming 3" would be enough additional lift. If not, you could go to a third board, but each additional step increases length and weight of the assembly.

[Timex]

Sounds to me you better have more than wheel chocks holding the trailer back. Or you could have a truck camper situation.
If you are having to jack the front as high as you are wanting to, you might need to find a place that is a little more level. Just doesn't look safe to me.
That's my .13(allowed for inflation).

[Weeg]

Put a jack under the rear pumpkin of the truck. Jack up the truck, block up the trialer hitch. Release the hitch lock and drop the truck!

[caper]

Could you not cut the back of the driveway down to make it more level? It would be a lot to work but it would make for a safer situation.