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Old 05-11-2012, 07:41 PM   #1
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Wolfpup 17RR Spare Tire Install/Hoist Under Chassis pics and instructions - long

Well, I finally got around to dealing with the spare tire hauling issue all of us WolfPup owners are facing. I must say that I find it most frustrating, as my unit was preordered so FR had every opportunity to build in a method of carrying the spare tire, rather than throwing it in the middle of the cargo bay as I discovered on delivery. Again I find myself doing the engineer's work for FR... so here it goes...


Step one...

You will need yourself a Wolfpup that FR mindlessly threw the spare tire into the cargo area instead of mounting it (LOL - joke as an icebreaker think we all own one of those )

Materials...

Conspicuously enough, Lippert makes the hoist... You can buy it directly from them (sure would have been easier to do this at the factory level as they built my camper)... the part number is 159056. It's listed as two different prices on their website, the lower being $67.95.

You'll need a 4' piece of 1/8 thick rectangular section 1"x3" steel beam from a local metal supplier - about $20 (market price by weight)

A 4' piece of 1/2" diameter steel pipe and 3/4" diameter steel pipe - about $12 market price by weight.

Some spray paint, cotter pins, spring clips and bolts and nyloc nuts.

You will also need (a must) a 20' roll of 4" wide flex mend and a heat gun so you can repair the membrane under your trailer.


So to get started you need to drop your fresh water tank by undoing the 2 bolts on either side of the rear retaining rail that runs across your camper. You will find that your (until now) useless pare tire will work well to prop up the water tank when placed under the front of it during this install.

Next you need to cut the membrane above the water tank, and in the bay behind the water tank, and in the back of the camper..

You will need to do this to give yourself enough room to slide the 4' pice of steel beam towards the front of the camper so it clears all the beams. Once it is up and to the front, then you can slide it all the way back until it contact the back of the unit.

In it's final resting spot, your beam will be supported by the two main cross members at the back of the camper. You will need to mark out and pre drill holes in the top of the cross members to anchor in your beam, as well as mark the hole on your beam to make sure they will line up when you are done. (Make sure you wear safety glasses when drilling under you camper).

Next remove the beam, complete the drilling of the holes and replace your drilled beam to dry fit it. If it's all good, then remove it, and prep your remaining pieces.

You could install the hoist with the crank to the rear of the camper, but to install it you would need to drill through your bumper and the rear main cross member.

I chose to mount it sideways as the drive shaft (up next) has enough deflection to clear the frame. I installed my hoist with the crank on the passenger side so in the event I needed to use it (say on side of highway) I would be on the non traffic side.

The drive mechanism / shaft - Again, lippert is not smart enough to sell you a shaft to operate your hoist (even though it is depicted in the order page, pdf, blueprint and carries no part number other than the hoist on lippert's website).

No big deal. Cheaper and faster to make it than deal with more RV people. Take your 3"4" pipe, cut a piece about 15" long, drill a hole in it for the cotter pin to secure it to the hoist. Take the 1/2" pipe, cut a 12" piece of it (check these measurements for yourself I am going by memory). Take another 15" pice of 3/4" and slide it over one end of the 1/2" pipe, slide the 1/2" pipe in the 3/4" pipe attached to the hoist. Drill holes through all the pipes to give you the ability to adjoin them. At the end of the very last 3/4" piece, drill a 1/2 " hole in the end of it and take a 12" piece of 1/2" and slide it through to make your tee handle.

When all of this is done and dry fit, wipe everything done with paint thinner and rubbing alcohol. Paint it all your color of choice.

When dry, install everything, repair the membrane, lift your water tank back in place. You will now need to attach the first 2 pieces of shaft to the hoist with cotter pins. They will remain permanently installed. Take 2/3 of a PVC pipe clamp and screw it under your trailer. This will clip the pipe up out of the way when not in use. Attach your tee handle with a quick release cotter pin to use, and then hoist up your tire.

It will fit almost perfectly in the space between the two rear frame embers (kinda where FR should put it when you order a spare tire).

There you have it. Spare tire stowed.

Pics to follow though I have no idea how to organize them in the topic.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:43 PM   #2
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more pics....
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:44 PM   #3
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more pics...
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:52 PM   #4
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Spare tire

You can get the same setup from a dealer. Just mount 2 pieces of angle under the crossmember and bolt on. The only thing wrong with it is the tire does not pull up flush and hanges below frame I tried ti
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #5
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The wolf pup has nothing structural to install a hoist where you need it installed. Tire cranks up snug against membrane between frame rails. This setup gains you 8" of clearance. Tire rests between rails, not under them. No issues.

Yes - you are correct. You could pay a dealer hundreds of dollars for something that takes 2 hours of your time if you wanted.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jusme View Post
You can get the same setup from a dealer. Just mount 2 pieces of angle under the crossmember and bolt on. The only thing wrong with it is the tire does not pull up flush and hanges below frame I tried ti

Not sure if you are aware that the only solution posted for a wolf pup to date has been to drill through the rear cargo door - something I was not willing to do.
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