1999 Georgetown f53 no brake lights or hazard flashers

[meporsche]

Hello all, just finished a trip in my 99 F53 Motor Home. Had some trailer wiring to update (new plug) and in the process of testing the lights on the tow I discovered I have no brake lights. Turn signals and running lights are all fine. No 4 way flashers either.

The multi function seems to be working, when I try to engage the flashers it DOES override the turn signals as it is supposed to. My understanding is that the turn signals and the hazard signals use the same flasher relay, correct?

I believe my pedal mounted brake switch is working as it kicks the CC off with just a touch of my foot. I've read lots of posts but most deal with the loss of brake lights AND turn signals and is usually a multi function switch problem.

I read a post on another forum that someone had gotten info from Ford that there is a flasher relay as part of a fuse but I can't locate anything in my manual. DOes anyone know if there IS a separate flasher relay somewhere for the hazards only?
Thanks to all who can respond. Darwin

[Checkeredcat]

We had a similar problem. It was a terminal inside the 6 way plug. Easy to take apart and check to be sure all wires are connected tight. One wire was not properly seated. It was a new wiring harness, as well.
Hopefully your fix is as easy as ours was.


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[conceptumator]

Google the pedal mounted brake light switch. I can't remember exactly what the deal was, but our old MH was an F53 chassis and the brake controller specifically said it was not to use the pedal switch. Not sure if that could be contributory or not. Good luck!

[meporsche]

I should have been clearer, the issue is not with the tow plugged into the motor home, the issue is the motor home itself. Of course, that means I have no brake lights or hazard flasher on the tow either

[captainperry]

If it's a Ford then it's probably the multi function switch, I've changed a 100 of them. The brake switch is easy to test with a test light. Hot on one side when,,,, pedal depressed hot on both asides. One hint to multi function switch is wipers start acting funny. Of course it's nice if you can find the diagram and test rather than replace and hope

[rvpezzano]

I agree with captainperry, I replaced a bunch of multi-function switches. Just for the heck of it, try pushing the 4-way button rapidly. Some times it's an old age connection. I used to keep a "known good switch in my tool box".

[meporsche]

Thanks to both of you, I just got back in from re-checking all fuses, looking for loose wires and checking for binding on the tilt mech. I think I have probably played with the flasher button a couple of dozen times but nothing.

Couple of questions:

#1, My brake switch is a 5 wire plug, I am "assuming" that the brake light switch wire is always hot, correct? and if the ignition is not on, that would also be the ONLY hot wire at that time, also correct? If so, then if I find a hot lead going to the brake switch I can rule that out?

#2 I have taken out the screws from the steering column shroud. I cannot remove it completely because of the tilt knob and the plastic piece over the ignition lock. However, it looks as though I can get to the two screws on the turn signal switch (multi switch) and be able to remove it without the shrouds completely off, am I correct?

#3 In looking through my usual parts sources I don't find a multi function switch for a 1999 F53. Can I go back to an earlier chassis? Do the E & F series 350 & 450 switches interchange?

Again, thanks for all the help. Back in the day you just replaced the fuse, flasher or the wiring. This is a tad more complex and expensive.

Please let me know if I am headed in the right direction and if there is another source other than paying Dealer $$ for the part. Darwin

[rvpezzano]

On the multi-function switch, the tilt lever unscrews, they use lock tight so you need a 5/16 wrench or a small adjustable to unscrew it. The switch itself is secured top and bottom by 2 torks head screws(can't remember the size). When you get the switch off, unplug it (be careful when you unplug it, the tab is old and brittle. If you break the tab off, use a tie wrap when plugging it into the new one so it won't loosen up down the road).
Bring the old switch to Ford and they can either get the part number off it, or they may know by looking at it. If I remember right, take a good look at the plug configuration and count the pins, there are a couple of different ones.

[rvpezzano]

I forgot one thing. The shroud has 3 phillips screws that come in from the bottom, after you get them out, the cover will pull apart.

[captainperry]

There 's smoke coming out of my ears trying to remember this stuff....LOL! In regards to #1, I think your correct, but I would just be concerned with brake switch completing circuit. Another wire should get hot when pedal depressed. Try to do one thing at a time otherwise you'll be chasin' your tail if you go off in all directions. #2 to help get shroud past ignition switch you have to remove cylinder which is easy. Put key in ignition and I believe you turn key to "on" not running position. On the bottom side of cylinder there will be a little nub sticking out. Push in with screwdriver at the same time wiggle key and pull. Cylinder and key should come out enabling you to completely remove shroud. Follow these directions and directions from rvpezzano and you should be good to go.
#3 somebody has the part. Don't panic. rvpezzano gave you the right advice . Remove and bring to a Ford dealer

[captainperry]

Just to make my self clearer. Having hot or power on brake switch does NOT mean the switch is good. You have to depress switch to make sure power is running thru it to complete circuit. HOT on one side and then when pedal depressed another wire will get hot, thereby completing circuit to lights. It's so much easier showing someone rather than describing how to do it.....good luck and keep us posted

[meporsche]

Thanks for all the help.

OK, I am guessing that the switch is magnetized/internal? I pulled it off and there is a plain non moveable plastic nub. I can hear the light "click" when I start to depress the pedal. Not really sure how to test this because the 5 wire plug needs to be connected to be able to see if the circuit is complete. I am not the best at tracing 12v circuits. ALthough I am puzzled, does the brake light switch hot out go up and run through the multi function switch and then to the brake light circuit? I am assuming so since the hazard warning controls/overrides the brake light function and would therefore have to be routed through the switch. Am I close to being right here?

As far as the multi function, I am not going to mess with ignition removal, I can move the shroud enough to access the screws and figure I can have enough room to swap units. I found the correct part #(s) and purchased a NON motorcraft one as they seem to be inherently poor design by their failure rate.

[captainperry]

Yes, you are correct. What ever is easier on you. Your also correct on design. As long as you can replace I believe your good to go. Plus you saved yourself some money. Again keep us posted after you replace it