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Old 10-08-2016, 10:25 AM   #21
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FWIW they use a torque wrench when they work on my vehicles because I insist on it and watch them. Good shops will do that. Good shops have torque controlled tools to prevent breaking things so one does not need to do much more than ask if the set the torque so they give you a dirty look for thinking they don't.

What is really an issue for C's is that you get a heavy truck mechanic with tools designed for several times the rated studs on the E series chassis. They can literally break the studs with the heavy power wrenches.
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Old 10-08-2016, 02:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374 View Post
In a perfect situation, or with aluminum rims, I could see using a torque wrench.
In reality, when was the last time you saw a tire company using a torque wrench to mount a set of steel rims, especially on a heavy duty E-450 with steel rims. They don't. I could just imagine them checking torque on 32 seperate lug nuts. Aside from that, they use air impact wrenches that are a heck of a lot more powerful than the electric wrench I carry.
Unless you really continue to crank down with an electric impact or a manual breaker bar your not going to break a stud or warp a steel rim.
Also, if I'm on the side of a roadway, changing a flat, last thing I'm going to worry about is checking the torque on the lug nuts.
On our two Subies or Mustang with alloy rims, yes, I do use a torque wrench.
Real world, on our Lexi, I have had my rims off a number of times, either to replace my shocks, mount new steel valve stems, and to rotate the 6 tires on my rig. Always used the impact wrench, and have never stripped or broken a lug nut or wheel stud.
Grumpy
Grumpy,
I am a Ford Auto Tech by trade and have been since 81, at the shop we use torque sticks that are rated by different torque they twist at, I have one that stops at 140 and I have checked it, it can vary by 5 ftlbs but other than getting a lug nut or bolt up to the proper stretch and tightness it is imperative to have then equal to prevent warpage.. most large tire shops use these torque sticks as do I but I am also old school and always finish with my torque wrench. Like you stated though a professional that is familiar and knows his tools can get close, I prefer to be completely sure. And like you I may get in a hurry on the side of the road but I will later recheck them for piece of mind.. I also send my torque wrenches off for re-calibration every year in winter time as that is our slower period..
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:49 PM   #23
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Davidjeff, I will concede to you. But, I still stand by my statements as to the OP's original post and question.
As usual, we always get too involved and end up giving much more advice and info than needed. We go from explaining what a rubber band is to the dynamics of what makes rubber stretch, where rubber comes from, why it snaps back, different sizes, thicknesses, ect ect.
His original query was to just what is needed to get going, and here we are talking about torque sticks (probably only 1 in 50 know what they are), torque wrenches, ect ect.
He's probably more concerned with just getting his rig going again, and for that I still maintain a good 20 ton bottle jack and a good electric impact wrench, wheel chock, is all that is needed.
I know the two times this year I stopped to help change a flat on a class c, the owners were just happy someone stopped.
Grumpy
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Old 10-09-2016, 01:37 AM   #24
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Grumpy, may I also concede as well. I fully agree with all you have stated and useing anything that gets the job done when in a bind is better than nothing. ;-)
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:26 PM   #25
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Changing Class C Tire

I have nothing to add to the techniques of changing the tire but do have a suggestion as to how to carry your spare tire.

On most sunseekers, the spare is just chained up between the rear frame rails. A pain in the neck to get up and down when sitting on a nice level concrete pad.....nearly impossible along the side of the road on uneven ground.

You can order a ford pickup spare tire hoist online. They are usually listed as new vehicle takeouts on eBay, etc. Bolt this up underneath and you can then crank the spare up and down. The cable is also long enough that you don't have to crawl underneath the whole way to put it back up.

A few dollars and hassle to install but if you ever need to use your spare, even once, it's worth its weight in gold.
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:21 PM   #26
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If you don't want to relocate the spare (that's me) then if you run into a jam and have a flat, use your leveling blocks on one side and the bottle jack on the other to hold the spare against the floor of the rig or at least as close as you can, undo the chain and remove the support bar. Lower the jack slowly, guiding the tire with your other hand to keep from getting smacked in the head. Then all you need to do is kick the spare out from under the rig. Although now that I think about it, in 20 years I probably won't be changing a tire on an RV unless I absolutely have to...

I carry a 20 ton bottle jack, a deep well impact socket and stubby extension, a break over bar and torque wrench. My foot and body weight can break these bolts loose one careful step of the bar at a time. Or, if that's not possible due to surface level, I also carry a dead blow mallet that works as well. I ere on the side of less weight to carry but when I get tired of doing the road side dance I'll probably pick up one of those fancy electric impact guns even though it only serves one purpose. I've only had to change a tire once >knock on wood<

Getting the flat back on in place of the spare... Now THAT is when that cable lift wound have come in handy!
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Old 10-12-2016, 06:17 PM   #27
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I spent a few bucks several years ago to make it easier on myself. Original spare location was under the rear.
Bought a Roadmaster dual hitch insert and a Curt Spare Tire Carrier on Amazon.
This is what it looks like.
Grumpy
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:43 PM   #28
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We blew a rear inner dually this spring on the interstate on our 3170. Roadside came out ( within an hout)and changed it, only problem . . because it was on for over 3 years it took 2 hours to get the tires off. Apparently happens all the time on trucks though they have more room to work it loose. Not fun sitting on the side of the road.
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:01 PM   #29
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Very slightly off topic but related. I've had two occasions where I had to change a tire alongside the Interstate roadway. Before even starting the job the first thing I did was dial 911 and tell them I was probably a hazard to passing traffic and requested a police unit with flashing lights. Both times the state patrol showed up within five minutes (Georgia and Florida). Sure makes the job a lot safer.
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