Extension Cord For Home

[Brian217]

I use a regular 16 gauge extension cord at home to charge the batteries, and start the fridge before a trip. I wanted to get a heavier duty cord so I could run the air occasionally. Amazon has a 50 ft. 12 gauge cord for $30 and a 10 gauge cord for $71. It's a pretty big price difference between the two.
Should either of these be safe for running the air or maybe neither of them would, I don't know. The 12 gauge is rated for 15 amps, while the 10 gauge doesn't say, but I'm assuming it should be at least 15. Anyone's knowledge on this would be appreciated.

[karrun]

Originally Posted by Brian217

I use a regular 16 gauge extension cord at home to charge the batteries, and start the fridge before a trip. I wanted to get a heavier duty cord so I could run the air occasionally. Amazon has a 50 ft. 12 gauge cord for $30 and a 10 gauge cord for $71. It's a pretty big price difference between the two.
Should either of these be safe for running the air or maybe neither of them would, I don't know. The 12 gauge is rated for 15 amps, while the 10 gauge doesn't say, but I'm assuming it should be at least 15. Anyone's knowledge on this would be appreciated.

I can't run my air conditioner on my garage 20 amp circuit. Do you have 30 amp available?

[waiter21]

You are right at the limit with the 12 gauge and a standard 15 amp outlet. If you run the AC only and nothing else (no frig, no converter, nothing.)

I have a 13.5k BTU, not a 15k unit. I've done it, but I keep an eye on the plugs to make sure they are not getting warm. I never ran mine unattended.

I don't like doing this, so a few months ago, I installed a 30 amp RV pedestal at my house. I ran #10 wire back to the main panel box and put in a 30 amp breaker. No more problems and no more adapters when I'm at home.

Your #12 extension cord wire will handle the 15 amps, but the connectors and plugs are at the limit and must be perfect.

Most household outlets are wired with 15 amp outlets using #14 wire and are protected by a 15 amp breaker.

Consider replacing the outlet with a brand new 20 amp outlet. Because of the 15 amp breaker, your still limited to 15 amps, but the quality of the 20 amp receptical will improve your connection.

When you do this, note the wire size thats connected to the outlet, 20 amp circuits require 12 gauge wire. (i.e. a garage) (you may have a 20 amp circuit. You'll need to check your breaker panel.)

When you install the outlet, don't use the push in clips, put the wire under the screw and tighten the screw (better connection)

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Brian217

I use a regular 16 gauge extension cord at home to charge the batteries, and start the fridge before a trip. I wanted to get a heavier duty cord so I could run the air occasionally. Amazon has a 50 ft. 12 gauge cord for $30 and a 10 gauge cord for $71. It's a pretty big price difference between the two.
Should either of these be safe for running the air or maybe neither of them would, I don't know. The 12 gauge is rated for 15 amps, while the 10 gauge doesn't say, but I'm assuming it should be at least 15. Anyone's knowledge on this would be appreciated.

10 gage wire at 25' is good up to 30 amps. But if you are plugging into a household socket it's going to be either 15 or 20 amp max. If your going to run your A/C then you will want the 10 ga. cord, less voltage drop, but your breaker is the limiter. Your A/C will pull between 15 to 17 amps, plus your convertor at 3 or 4 amps, your going to be maxed out and under sized with the 12 ga cord. Also remember you might have other things on the circuit that will also take some of those 20 amps from the breaker. So get the 30 amp/10 ga. and be safe and probably save some of your stuff in the trailer...

[myredracer]

If you want to run the AC, you MUST use a min. #10 extension cord. A #16 gauge cord is waay too small - period. You *might* get away with a #12 cord if not running an AC unit or other high demand load. Voltage drop can seriously damage an AC. Also, the voltage may not be high enough when initially turned on due to momentary inrush current (up to around 5-6 times the running current) and will cause a breaker to trip.

But it "depends". First, on the voltage at the panel in the house and how stable it is. Secondly, on the total overall length of wire from the panel in the house to the inside your RV. Lastly, you must make sure the voltage in the RV with the AC running is above the min. that can cause damage to an AC. Depending on the source of info., this will range from 102 to 105 volts. A permanent mounted voltmeter inside an RV is a really good thing to have. An EMS is also a very good thing to have and will shut you down on low voltage (and other conditions).

Never plug into power unless it is turned off first (via a pedestal breaker or breaker in panel at home or inside an RV). A converter/charger has a momentary inrush current when first energized. If you plug in live, you will hear a zap and will see a flash in the dark. The zap causes pitting on plug blades & inside receptacles/connectors which attracts dirt and eventually you will have overheating and a meltdown. Cheaper and lighter gauge extension cords do not have very good contact surfaces. Even if you don't have any loads turned on (except for converter, fridge, etc.) a 16 gauge cord will likely not last long.

[BBQGUY]

If your shore cord is long enough to reach, get an adapter. If you are short say 40 feet, just buy a 30amp, 50 foot RV cord extension. If will come in handy one day when the pedestal is just out of reach or you have to use a different pedestal.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by BBQGUY

If your shore cord is long enough to reach, get an adapter. If you are short say 40 feet, just buy a 30amp, 50 foot RV cord extension. If will come in handy one day when the pedestal is just out of reach or you have to use a different pedestal.

I agree.

Why mess around with a 12 ga. extension cord (or even a 10) when you can buy a regular 30 amp 50' extension cord for $49.95?

**BUY IT HERE**

Use an adapter at the end for when you want to plug into a duplex outlet and have the extra cord when you are at a campground with a pedestal too far away.

EDIT TO ADD:
If you don't need 50', simply buy a 30 amp extension cord in whatever length necessary. I've seen them made in 5', 10', 15', 20', 25', 30', and 50'.

[polishdon]

Originally Posted by waiter21

I don't like doing this, so a few months ago, I installed a 30 amp RV pedestal at my house. I ran #10 wire back to the main panel box and put in a 30 amp breaker. No more problems and no more adapters when I'm at home.

I want to do this at my house, is it as easy as installing any other breaker and outlet??

[Brian217]

Thanks for all the replies. With all the info on running too many amps, I think a may get an electrician to look at it. I have an open 40amp breaker in my box that was used for a pool heater that I don't have anymore. Maybe that could be used, or change it to a 30. I do like the ideas for the additional 30amp power cord. Didn't think of that and it makes sense to do that instead of the 12 or 10 gauge cord.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by polishdon

I want to do this at my house, is it as easy as installing any other breaker and outlet??

It is IF you have good general knowledge of electrical components and circuitry. Many get in trouble when they wire up a 30 amp outlet at 220v.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Brian217

Thanks for all the replies. With all the info on running too many amps, I think a may get an electrician to look at it. I have an open 40amp breaker in my box that was used for a pool heater that I don't have anymore. Maybe that could be used, or change it to a 30. I do like the ideas for the additional 30amp power cord. Didn't think of that and it makes sense to do that instead of the 12 or 10 gauge cord.

Yes, you'll simply swap out the 40 amp breaker for a 30 and use the available space in the box to feed your outlet. Depending on where the 40 amp pool circuit ran to, you might be able to utilize that wiring to feed your outlet box as well.

EDIT: Just be sure your 30 amp outlet gets wired to 110v!!
Many get into trouble when they mistakenly wire it at 220v like some older home, 30 amp dryer/range outlets were.

[325BH]

There are a lot of options when running a dedicated circuit.

Here is what I did on the outside of my outbuilding. I actually have the box on an 80 amp circuit, so I can load all three receptacles at the same time (if I needed).






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[karrun]

Food for thought about the danges of running AC off of a 15V circuit at home
Article

[Witch Doctor]

Yep just install a 30 amp single 110 volt beaker with #10 ga. Wirer.

[RussPastuch]

I can't run my air conditioner on my garage 20 amp circuit. Do you have 30 amp available?



Odd, I can run my AC on the 15 amp circuit, nothing else, but the AC will run.

[Chuck.C]

Originally Posted by RussPastuch

I can't run my air conditioner on my garage 20 amp circuit. Do you have 30 amp available?



Odd, I can run my AC on the 15 amp circuit, nothing else, but the AC will run.

Could be that the garage circuit is on a GCFI and the 15 amp isn't. The RV doesn't like to have another GCFI ahead of it.

[EDABEUT]

No matter what size cord or wire you use if you have to use an adapter they are only rated to 15 amps. For anything over that you have to match the 30 amp plug on the rv.

[Lynlanning]

Originally Posted by polishdon

I want to do this at my house, is it as easy as installing any other breaker and outlet??

We had an electrician put a 50A in (for "someday" when we get an A) when we had our breaker box upgraded. Be sure to ask for or install a breaker switch near the outlet - we have to go inside to the basement to flip it on or off. As others mentioned, make sure to not wire it like a clothes dryer!!

I used a 10g (might've been 8? It was thick and heavy), 100' cord before this was installed, but never ran more than the fridge and maybe the tv. Good luck :-)

[wboglejr]

I use 10 gauge wire from the house to the trailer. The voltage drop was too great with even a 12 gauge wire to safely run the AC without causing issue due to low voltage (brown out situation). With the AC on I am drawing about 13 amps on a standard 15 amp circuit with proper voltage with the 10 amp. I spent the money on the heavier wire under the premise better safe than sorry.

[Dodaman]

Recently, I have been doing some mods on our camper. I sometimes run the AC especially with the 90 plus degree days around my place. I haven't installed a 30 amp plug yet but plan on it soon. I am running a 10ga ext cord with the 15 amp adaptor. I only run the AC. I use flashlights if needed.

While doing a remodel in basement a few years back, it worked out we ran a dedicated 15 amp outlet. So I use that one only with that ext cord. The heat gun never has shown an increase in heat at either cord end. And the volt meter shows 119v when compressor is off and when it kicks on, the volts drop to 117v.

I probably have 6 or 7 more days where I'll be needing to do this. at the most, it is 5 to 6 hours at a time. When finished, I can start the process of adding a 30 amp box. Would this be relatively safe to continue this. Or should I just skip the work and add the outlet?

Thanks for the replies.