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Old 09-19-2015, 02:00 PM   #1
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LED clearance and signal lights

Just ordered 4 red and 2 clear replacement LED modules for the brake/signal/running/backup lights on the back of my Forester Class C (Chevy chassis).

Stop/Turn/Running light

Backup light

Has anyone replaced their clearance light or front signal light bulbs with LEDs? If so, what bulbs did you use and how are they working out? Are the LED bulbs in the front signal lights or clearance lights brighter?
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Old 09-19-2015, 07:46 PM   #2
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For the correct bulb size for your chassis's front lights check your Chevy owners manual. You can then cross reference the OEM bulb number on a LED replacement vendors site. I think they are 3157s....

As for brightness the replacement LEDs the ones I use in one of my cars are definitely brighter than the OEM bulbs...
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Old 09-19-2015, 10:28 PM   #3
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Just a reminder of one odd thing a mechanic buddy made me aware if on my last RV, which was a Ford F53 chassis. Not sure if it holds true for the Chevy or not but bears checking. Don't trust my terminology 100%, but the gist of it is that the torque converter unlocks based on the current draw from the brake lights when you step on the pedal. The LED bulbs don't draw enough power to cause it to unlock, resulting in transmission damage. Simple solution is just to wire an incandescent bulb somewhere in the circuit and wrap it with electrical tape so you don't have to see the light from it. This gets the current draw you need. I'd rather cry wolf on this than see you damage your rig. Sure surprised me when I heard it. Good luck!


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Old 09-20-2015, 08:19 AM   #4
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Just a reminder of one odd thing a mechanic buddy made me aware if on my last RV, which was a Ford F53 chassis. Not sure if it holds true for the Chevy or not but bears checking. Don't trust my terminology 100%, but the gist of it is that the torque converter unlocks based on the current draw from the brake lights when you step on the pedal. The LED bulbs don't draw enough power to cause it to unlock, resulting in transmission damage. Simple solution is just to wire an incandescent bulb somewhere in the circuit and wrap it with electrical tape so you don't have to see the light from it. This gets the current draw you need. I'd rather cry wolf on this than see you damage your rig. Sure surprised me when I heard it. Good luck!


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Thanks! Worth checking out.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:40 PM   #5
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Speaking of electrical issues. On our 2500TS Sunseeker Once in a while in the main battery terminal distribution center right beside the front step we hear a clicking sound. Then it goes away. Lasta for about 30 seconds then pulsates back in about a minute. Anyone figure if this is a relay ? Just showed up to-day and lasted for about 1/2 hour and now its gone. Problem with these types of things if you go to a dealer it will not do it . but when you are in a camp ground it probably will (Murphy's law)


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Old 09-22-2015, 10:36 AM   #6
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For the correct bulb size for your chassis's front lights check your Chevy owners manual. You can then cross reference the OEM bulb number on a LED replacement vendors site. I think they are 3157s....
I am running these 3157s in the front marker lights on my truck:

3157 Amber 21 LED Marker Lights, Daytime Running Light
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Old 09-22-2015, 12:23 PM   #7
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Torque convertor lock up is not controlled by tail lights. Its controlled from the Computer , when the brake is depressed it cuts the signal at the computer and it signals for the convertor to unlock. Once off the brakes the computer senses and returns to convertor lockup.
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Old 09-22-2015, 01:26 PM   #8
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So, in short, the computer gets told the brake lights are on and unlocks the torque converter......sounds to me like that's being controlled by the brake lights!
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Old 09-28-2015, 01:31 PM   #9
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By the brake light switch. More than one contact set in the assembly so the bulbs have nothing to do with it on modern systems.
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Old 09-28-2015, 02:11 PM   #10
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There are dozens of posts like this one all over the internet. I think it PROBABLY deserves some credibility....

No Torque Converter Lockup.... ABS Light - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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Old 09-28-2015, 04:44 PM   #11
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There are dozens of posts like this one all over the internet. I think it PROBABLY deserves some credibility....

No Torque Converter Lockup.... ABS Light - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
I did a bunch of searches too, it looks like it may be a Ford issue, I couldn't find anything about Chevy or even Dodge (Ram).
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Old 09-28-2015, 06:33 PM   #12
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Maybe so, but the real question is why change to LEDs for that application? Chassis lighting will not benefit you by extending your coach batteries. Using a resistor returns the load that the LEDs are supposed to reduce!
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:38 AM   #13
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Maybe so, but the real question is why change to LEDs for that application? Chassis lighting will not benefit you by extending your coach batteries. Using a resistor returns the load that the LEDs are supposed to reduce!
Why change? The biggest reasons I did are because LEDs are generally brighter and usually last longer. Plus you no longer have a bulb out because one filament failed. That's why most automakers are converting to LEDs.
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:03 PM   #14
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Smaller current draw per candle power, faster ignition time, less heat, allowing sockets (and lenses) to last longer. BTW, the DOT has already made comments regarding the faster ignition time. Often by as much as 250ms. I suspect the DOT will require them (on new cars) in the next few years for most all of the reasons mentioned. Using the resistor ONLY adds some load, NOT the full load and it still doesn't negate all the advantages listed so far... Prices are dropping like rocks... It's a no brainer...


In another few years, incandescent auto bulbs will be like household incandescents. ie. They will be off the market...
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Old 09-29-2015, 12:07 PM   #15
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and one more thing.... A 50+% less use in energy on the alternator system. Engineers are spending man years trying to save .01 mpg in fuel economy tests. EVERY WATT used in that car comes from engine load....
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