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Old 09-15-2016, 12:54 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by asquared View Post
Is your wdh adjusted properly? Ideally your reese should be adjusted to return the front axle to as close to unloaded weight as possible without going heavier. Next check your cams. Pull forward about 100 ft straight on flat level ground. Make sure your cams are sitting correctly in the saddle.

These links are very helpful for the dual cam. It us very hard to get adjusted properly. Ask me how I know.
Travel trailer hitch setup procedure

wdh, how it works.


Next, are you within your payload and tow capacity? Is your tongue weight under or over your hitch receiver ratings? What size bars are you running on your wdh? What is your tongue weight?
This has been the first problem I found. The weight questions, yes I am well within my tow capacity. Tongue weight was close to 1100 with the trailer weighing at 10k fully loaded. I checked the bars for both cams locking where they should be during straight line driving and sure enough the passenger side was not correct and was sitting like I was making a left hand turn. This doesn't make sense to me since both mounts on the trailer a frame are in the same exact position. I have since moved the culprit mount on the a frame 1" forward to allow the cam on the bar to sit where it should on the saddle mounted to the a frame. No test rides yet thou. I'm lucky to get the thing out once a month so I'm hoping real soon to pull it again.

I really really appreciate everybodys suggestions and my apologies for not responding to every post. I will try my best here to sum up most of the great questions asked......
Yes I said I "built the truck" it has stock sized, E range tires and is NOT lifted. I'm running an aftermarket steering box and aftermarket track bar. The truck is not the issue! I built this truck for big HP and TQ numbers and oversized tires do nothing but make my numbers lower. This was a frame off build with a very clean rust/rot free truck from north carolina to start with. While most of the bushings in the suspension have been replaced it may not be as good as a rig built in 2017, bit its dam near perfect for a truck of its age. This TV doesn't not have anti sway because it was built in 1998 and well, anti sway control was far off the list of options,
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:54 AM   #22
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[QUOTE=Blktegra;1317853]
I'm running an aftermarket steering box and aftermarket track bar. QUOTE]

Out of curiosity, why was the steering box replaced with an aftermarket unit?
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:12 PM   #23
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The 2nd gen cummins diesel Rams were notorious for wearing out track bars and eventually the steering box. It uses a very old design of a box similar to what you find in a car from the early 70s. What happens is the bushing that holds the sector shaft (where the pitman arm mounts to) wears out and the truck starts to wander really bad. The only option is a reman or an aftermarket built one. The remans are all made a company called Cardone they reman basically everything that u buy that's a reman. And plain and simple their parts are junk and that's putting it lightly. The aftermarket box is from a company called redhead steering gears and it's made by somebody that knows what they are doing. They really just reuse the stock case and machine it to accept larger bearings in place of the factory bushings. I highly recommend them! Excellent customer service as well
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:22 PM   #24
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I too doubt the problem is with the TV. I pulled heavy equipment with a similar truck years ago. No one cared about the numbers back then or even knew what they were. The truck pulled an overloaded goose neck with no problem. I'll bet on hitch 1st. There should be a sweet spot in the set up and finding it? Only believe that as the GN had no problems with heavier weights than the TH all around.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:56 PM   #25
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^^^agreed I dislike the bumper pull its definitely a gooseneck next time around. Until then I have to figure this out. The hitch has a lot of slop when it's in the receiver (unloaded) and it just seems magnified by the fact that it's sooooo long IMO, I believe that's so I can still open the tailgate and clear the tongue jack. While that's a nice idea and quite useful the further that weight is away from the truck I feel that just magnifies the issue. For the small cost I think I'll buy a class 5 receiver and see if the slop is any less and piece of mind since the weight is putting the class 4 at its limit
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:43 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Blktegra View Post
^^^agreed I dislike the bumper pull its definitely a gooseneck next time around. Until then I have to figure this out. The hitch has a lot of slop when it's in the receiver (unloaded) and it just seems magnified by the fact that it's sooooo long IMO, I believe that's so I can still open the tailgate and clear the tongue jack. While that's a nice idea and quite useful the further that weight is away from the truck I feel that just magnifies the issue. For the small cost I think I'll buy a class 5 receiver and see if the slop is any less and piece of mind since the weight is putting the class 4 at its limit
I've been pulling a 5er for a long time but pulled a lighter TT with and F250. That hitch had a sleeve (my F350 has 2 sleeves). There was a little slop drawbar without a sleeve. I could drop the tailgate while hitched. The Equalizer 4 Point with sway control has a suggested distance from the hitch head to the rear bar brackets, do not recall what it is. Are your bars rated heavy enough? My F350 hitch is rated to 19,000# and 1900# tongue with a 2.5" drawbar and drops to 12,500/1250 with an adapter sleeve. Like you I'd rather not be at the limit but wondering if there is excessive slop that could be due to the need of a sleeve or the need of a heavier drawbar. Near Wilmington NC there is a business that does nothing but sell boat and utility trailer plus hitches. They have a rep of doing a perfect setup. If something like that near you I'd try them for advice. Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:46 PM   #27
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The class 4 on my dodge is rated for 1k tongue weight and 10k trailer weight with a wdh, I'm right at the limit so I will be changing to the class 5 for piece of mind. After investigating a bit today while I had some time...I found that my bars, reese V5s according to the stickers, are rated for max 10k trailer weight and max 800 lbs tongue weight. I'm putting 1k tongue weight with 10k trailer. Silly me to trust the dealer selling me the correct setup. They set it up so bad initially the bars almost never had tension in them, I could wiggle them around with my hand or kick em with my boots and they were always loose. After reading the manual online for the hitch I set the correct unloaded height of the ball and bars from the ground and immediately noticed an immense improvement. There
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